Sweden

Easter, hot weather, actually warmest Easter ever measured in the Netherlands.

So, where do you go? South? Chamonix? East? Ettringen? Freyr? Pfalz?

We had no idea, wanted to go for something new, something different.

Dennis' was once told that Götenborg had amazing climbing.

So, the car already packed with iceaxes, crampons, chalk, bikini and trad gear some Google calculations we decided to drive North (really we decided to go to Sweden in just 2 minutes time).

And what a choice, it was one of our best trips so far: beautiful cracks, even better weather, nice people, and the surroundings...Sweden is amazing!

Soon a little video and we want to write a report so you all can find the climbing there.

But, as I really need some money, I now first have to focus on work again...

IRATA in the Zoo

Except from just climbing, climbing and climbing I'm also....working...

Although it was basically a 'high-class cleaning job' it was still better then most work I can imagine.

Together with Rob, Robert, Thimo, Sjoerd, Carl and Michel I was literary hanging around in the zoo.

Cleaning a big cloth that represented a sea view in the area called 'Ocean'. (Big fish tank full of tropical fish).

The climate was, guess what, tropical. So we were hanging there in our shorts.

It's sort of finished. And we we sort of finished as well :)

The little boy on the picture next to the 2m tall guy iz me...:)

The two guys cleaning are Robert and Rob

CEAT Meeting Ettringen

Last time when I visited Ettringen was during the Autumn meet of the Commission Expeditions Alpine Topsport (CEAT).
This weekend was warmer, sunnier... And it was again the CEAT meeting.

We climbed so much that I forgot to film. But, still some nice things to show.

Ettringen is such a special area. The hard but silky smooth basalt, the dirty ditches you climb in full of rubbish that's been taken back by mother nature, the trees growing leaves again, the cracks...

It was so good, a bit painful though on my hands and fingers ;)

I tried a really cool 9- (French 7b+) worked it once on lead, climbed it afterwards on toprope and red point it hopefully next time! The route is called 'Einsichten eines Morphinisten' and is located in the relatively new area Schwarze Zirkel.

I missed the "I love Problems" bouldering comp in Steep Part (climbing gym in Rotterdam) so I missed the chance to qualify for the Worldcup Boulder in Eindhoven. But, that all didn't matter as outdoor climbing is what it's all about and that's what I did this weekend. I love it!

Congrats to Rachel, Roelien, Rianne, Mirthe, Hans, Jesse, Melle and Wolter!

And all Dutch team members who will join the Worldcup in June!

And it wouldn't be succesful without a "little" video...

I selected some beautiful climbs and I wanted to show just the beauty of the area. So not much talking, but a lot of climbing. Enjoy!

CEAT Meeting Ettringen, Germany from Marianne van der Steen on Vimeo.

Das Auto

I sold my beautiful Ford Transit van.

And since I'm back in the Netherlands I try to do everything by bike, train or borrow my parents car. But I calculated all and figured it's more expensive to go by train then by car (why???)

So...the car search was on.

And this is the result: a really old (older then I am) Volkswagen Golf 1.

Diesel, sports style ;) pretty original colour, and road tax free. I drove all the way to the furthest corner of the Netherlands to buy it...

This weekend will be the big test: Ettringen. How will it do on the German highway?

Spring time - drytool time ;0

When I look around here I see little lambs, flowers, birds building nests...in other words, yes, it's Spring time.

But, when I look online I see my friends hopping around in -10˚C on Icelandic glaciers and I just watched two iceclimbing videos... Weird.

The one of the DTS 2010 (Dry Tool Style, French drytooling comp) and the one from Petzl about Guy Lacelle...

Oh, yes, and for all Dutch who find it funny to try Summer iceclimbing on sportsclimbing walls, a message from friend and fellow climber Elwin:

Beste klimvrienden,

Gisteren lekker in de zon geklommen in Spaarnwoude.

Merkte echter dat sommige routes opnieuw beschadigd zijn. (1 route al bijna toe aan een +je opwaardering..)

Reden: Dry-toolen.

De 'onverlaat(en)' vermoed ik 'in ons midden' ;-). Het is ook wel heel verlokkelijk.

Toch wil ik weer, met nadruk, vragen om daar niet 'met scherp' te toolen (het beton is vrij zacht). Anders met de bekende 'kunststof Grivels', die je, indien zelf niet in het bezit, vast mag lenen/huren van klimhal Sloterdijk.

Alvast veel dank en KlimZ!

Elwin.

Here the Guy Lacelle tribute...