tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-298948622024-02-19T07:24:01.915+01:00Marianne - Climbing and MoreThe adventures of an (ice) climber traveling into the mountains around the World. :)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.comBlogger433125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-7522889064684054962015-01-29T11:51:00.005+01:002015-01-29T11:51:46.518+01:00The first Worldcup of the Season<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222;"><span style="color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.699219);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Competition Iceclimbing is changing.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">From enthusiasts that wanted to show what they were capable of to professionals that only train for these special competitions. Some have even never climbed a natural waterfall whilst that is where the sports is named after: iceclimbing. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">You can say whatever you like about this development. Personally I don't think it's a bad development. With professionalising the sports comes a joint development of safety, ethics, media attention, equipment, and new financial flows. And this is exactly what we need to get (and keep?) our sports at an Olympic level.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">As part of the growth of the sports logically the difficulty of the routes has increased. The length of the routes has doubled or even tripled and the technical difficulty has increased a lot.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Impressive is therefore the performance of the climbers from the 'old' generation like Sergey and Evgeny. Evgeny stood once again in the finals of the last competition in Saas Fee this weekend. Sergey stood on the podium earlier in Bozeman.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">We as Dutch climbers also have the feeling we should develop the sports. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Five years ago I climbed my first competitions in Daone and Saas Fee. It was such an experience! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Two years ago Dennis won the speed discipline here in Saas Fee giving a new impulse in the support and understanding of the sports within the Dutch federation and the Dutch climbing community.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">We find we owe the federation (NKBV) and the climbing community to build and grow the sports. We find its our job as representatives of the sports to do so.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Then what do we do?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Besides climbing and training (for as far as we can train drytooling and iceclimbing in our flat country) I organise the annual Dutch Drytool Event (an open drytool competition where everyone can enter, equipment is available for free and there are routes on every level) we give clinics in drytooling, and this year we started to extend our team with young athletes. The youth wasn't completely ready yet for the Youth Worldcup but during the weeks of training two older girls got ready for their first Iceclimbing Worldcup here in Saas Fee.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">They both did their best. I am proud to have them in the team. It's a good startup for further development of the sports in the Netherlands.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">We arranged equipment, a presentation about ethics and history in the sports, specific trainings, UIAA regulations... And just before the Worldcup in Saas Fee we took them for a week of ice, dry and mixed climbing around Kandersteg.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Meanwhile we work on our exposure, made a webpage, keep up several Facebook pages (personal pages, general pages about the sports) and try stay up-to-date with the latest developments through all kinds of channels.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Training, coaching the Social Media, planning, training other athletes... It's a full-time job. And one of the reasons why we quit our job at Edelrid a month ago.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">It became a little too much for me this weekend.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The hassle with the licenses when we subscribed, the whole arrangements and planning for the two new Dutch climbers, traveling itself, helping others with their licence/entry/equipment, Dennis who didn't climb as good as he could have done and he got a little injured, not too fantastic nights the past weeks (Dennis has epilepsy and it only occurs during his sleep) and being utterly nervous because of feeling the pressure to perform... All this things took so much energy!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">On the morning of the semi's I woke up really early. Just couldn't get to sleep anymore...Tried some breakfast, but decided most would be more fitting for lunch. The bulge of nervousness didn't support the appetite. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">When in isolation I warmed up, slowly. But the bulge in my stomach became a knot and turned into sickness. Again. The reminder of being so nervous worried me enough to having to throw up. And again. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Why? Why? I was desperate, angry, confused. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">When in the separate isolation just before my climb my supporters (my parents, friends) came up to me. "Come on girl, you can do this." I needed silence, concentration, not words, no distractions.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">They couldn't help it, their support for my climbing was just meant in a positive way.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I was wondering where Dennis was. I wanted to tell him to keep a little silence around me. Where was he? Was he allright? Why was he not here yet? </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Time to climb. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">With every move more energy drained to my stomach instead of my arms. The moves were tricky, I was slowly making progress. My hands got tired, pumped. I had to shake, rest. "Come on move on."</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I got to the ice, just barely. Had to move to the wood. Just swing in the wood. The energy was gone, the time was gone. In desperately swung and the axe stuck. My... That took so much, that looked so pathetic!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I was sure I was out. No finals there for me. I didn't ever get past the wood!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I went back to the hotel, lay in the bathtub. Thought it all over again. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">My parents and Dennis came by. They told me I was just not in the finals. Got 9th place. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I knew I was out and even thought I'd be lower in the ranking. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Not much later Dennis told me there was a mistake in the online ranking. I stood 8th. Meaning I would be in the finals! Surprised, confused.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Pretty sure they just didn't update the latest results yet. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">But then in a comment Alex (the one who does all registrations and results for the UIAA) told me the list was correct. I was in! Bizarre!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I had not much to prepare for the finals so I decided to lay in bed. Relax.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">A day ago I wrote down the schedule. From my phone to a little note block I</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Wrote down the times. When the route-preview starts, when the isolation opens, when the price giving ceremony would be. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">There was just an online schedule, no printed one anywhere.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">To me the times sounded totally logical. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="" style="color: #222222;">At 16:00</a> I was ready to leave the hotel. Some people wanted to come over to the hotel and walk with us. I was sure there was enough time for that. They went to the toilet, picked up some stuff and I thought it was also okay to be a little later in the isolation; less time to get nervous. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">We waited for the elevator (it took ages) and I first walked down into the Boulder room. No one was there. I was about to unpack but decided to walk to the heated room upstairs (second part of the isolation). A man looked with an angry surprise in my direction. All athletes, coaches had their eyes on me. I still had no idea. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">"Too late" the man said with a fairly angry voice in a Swiss-German accent. I still had no idea. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Dennis was with me, I asked him to join me in the iso. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">We looked at his watch. Still no idea of being too late. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">In what felt like ages a lady came up to me and started in French. I was too late, she said. Confused by all the languages but still understanding I stumbled back in Dutch-English. That it couldn't be. I was in time. I was just downstairs there was no-one there. She blamed me, in English this time, that it was my responsibility to check in time. I was not allowed to start. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I wanted to speak to the head judge. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">And so we walked out of the isolation. Walking out of the iso meant out of the competition. Only then I dared to ask Dennis for my phone. We never got any printed schedule beforehand and not even at the results-board hung a schedule. I went online (which costs a fortune here in Swiss) and checked the schedule. <a href="" style="color: #222222;">16:15</a> closure of the iso. I was too late. They were right. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I walked away. Angry, confused and utterly ashamed of making such, such a stupid mistake!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I cried. Wanted to hit something, someone. Run away and never come back. Ashamed of not taking the unique opportunity to climb in the finals. All negativity came out in once: I am such a bad climber, I can't even take care of my own stuff, I don't deserve anything, I can't finish anything, I'm such a looser! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I didn't want to go back to the venue. Didn't want to get on stage, I didn't even climb in the finals so I'm not allowed to be there! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">With all energy I got and the force of Dennis and my parents Still went to see the men's finals. And still went on the stage when they called out my name. Marc (Beverly) handed out the prices (a bottle of wine and €50,- cash). I wanted to crawl off the stage. Walk out, away from the big crowd waiting for the big winner (Angelika) to walk on to the podium. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Now, a day later I still find myself stupid and dumb. And still don't feel like climbing competitions again. I feel more like hiding, running away from everyone. Not being around anyone. Away from any situation where I can make mistakes. So ashamed...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Only it's impossible to hide and run forever. So, I'm still here, not knowing what to do, but still here. And maybe even moving on. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">And hopefully soon feel slightly better...</span></div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com45tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-73385027875355086642015-01-11T15:30:00.003+01:002015-01-11T15:31:33.790+01:00Bergsport Awards - Mountainsports Awards<br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Bergsport Awards</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Yes, yes! I’ve been nominated for the Dutch Mountainsports Awards!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Twice!<br />
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Apparently I’m the first Dutch Female to climb the Eiger Northface. The NKBV (Dutch Mountaineering Federation) has chosen this as one of the nominations for the annual award. </span></div>
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The second nomination is one I’m even more proud of. Actually, I’m just very happy with our free ascent itself. <br />
Last Spring we (Dennis and I) freeclimbed the Bibler/Klewin route on the Moonflower Buttress (Mt. Hunter, Alaska). <br />
For this ascent we also got nominated for the Mountainsports Awards in the Category “Alpine”. </span></div>
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Please, please vote for us on the Dutch website<b> <a href="http://bergsportawards.nkbv.nl/bergsportawards/stemmen">HERE.</a> </b></span></div>
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Unfortunately the vote involves a whole questionnaire in Dutch, if you need any help please contact us at <a href="mailto:info@verticallife.nl"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #001ba6; text-decoration: underline;">info@verticallife.nl</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Thnx for your vote!</span></div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-383738469027112862015-01-11T15:00:00.000+01:002015-01-11T15:00:01.254+01:00Austria in the Winter-Rain<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Rain is what we got this week instead of ice and snow. </span></div>
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Mid-winter and warm fohn-weather is what welcomed us. <br />
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Ah, well, we can’t change the weather so we just went drytooling. Diebsöfen was the place to be. Until today. It rained so much that the little sweet river underneath the cliff changed into a fierce and loud river. The rock itself became a lovely waterfall...but not a frozen one... <br />
So rest-day it is. <br />
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Excited I was last Wednesday when we finally got to our mid-stop in Germany. Ettringen. <br />
I was showed a small drytooling area at the Basalt climbing area close to Kloblenz. But when arriving at the site it seemed people decided it could be freeclimbed. Chalk marks everywhere. So very, very, not-done to try anything with iceaxes anylonger. Time to head on. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Austria. <br />
We are on our way to Bad Gastein but the ice isn’t there yet. We decided to make a short stop at Diebsöfen (St. Johann in Tirol) <br />
The hike up took us quite a bit longer then expected. The snow was uneven and sometimes more then waist-deep. We regretted not taking our ski’s. </span></div>
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At the cave we found a roof full of little icicles dripping, it looked beautiful. The M12 and M13 is what we came for. We hung around a bit but didn’t really find the right motivation. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Too slow, too cold, too lazy. But hey, we climbed! </span></div>
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The second day went a lot better. We decided to warm up in the M12 called ‘Fear and Loathing’. Not a very good idea. The route turned out the exist out of crumbly unclear holds. It took forever to find the right way up. <br />
Dennis’ second ascent of the day went much better then the first. He climbed it! <br />
My turn. A lot slower, but climbed it too! <br />
Most icicles were already gone due to the super warm weather and snow and ice kept on falling off the cliff. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Milk.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On our way back we met an older lady. We got into a small talk and decided to walk on together. <br />
Maybe we walked a little too fast or maybe she was just really excited about the topic. <br />
She was walking back from the farm up the hill with a small closed bucket of milk. <br />
Fresh milk she told us. She was proud to tell us she walked here every second or third day to get the fresh milk. It tasted so much better then the milk from the supermarket. <br />
I agreed. My uncle and grandmother had a farm just minutes away from my home. We were there almost every day and also were sent by my mum to get milk every second day. <br />
That milk was so much better then any milk I could get. <br />
When I started studying I was too far away to get any milk from the farm and not much later my uncle had to give up the farm. <br />
Too small to grow with the big farms, not the right location. Now there will be a whole new area of houses on the area that used to be my childhood playground. <br />
The lady went on that the scale of the modern farms is not something that pleases her. <br />
I told her about the first-born-milk called Biest in Dutch (in Austrian German it’s also called biest it turned out). She didn’t drink that, it was the milk for the calf, not for her. <br />
She jokingly went on about how there used to be a bull at every farm to get the cows with a calf, but now there’s just a human. She laughed and grabbed my arm, and softly said ‘poor cows, they don’t know what they’re missing’. More seriously she also said she sees that cows are more like a product, not like an animal anymore. They’re being used and disposed like a senseless product. She finds it a sad development. <br />
I agree. <br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The heating in the campervan is working great making evenings comfortable and cosy. <br />
We weren’t too worried about the rain until we looked out of our window the next morning. Trucks and diggers were fixing the road just next to where we were parked. <br />
Quite a flood had changed the road into an ugly mud-stream effecting houses on the way. <br />
The water up at the cliff wasn’t less. Time for a restday. <br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">What we thought would be just one restday became two restdays. We never expected today to be as rainy as yesterday!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Two days of rain turned all into a muddy, soggy environment. All the existing ice in the region had disappeared (even higher up in the mountains it had rained). </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Skiing also seemed impossible. What used to be a little snow-layer two days ago had turned into an ugly brown mud-slide. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">In town ski-teachers walked around, looking rather helpless...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Though, the weather seems better for tomorrow. More snow, colder temperatures, better conditions. Maybe we can give Diebsöfen a second change or when there’s not too much avalanche danger we’ll get higher up :)</span></div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-17034195598223023742015-01-11T14:39:00.000+01:002015-01-11T14:39:01.601+01:00Friends of Vertical Life<br />
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
We quit our job. </div>
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Yes, in the time where everyone is happy with just any job we decided theres more in life for us then the office we used to work.<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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</div>
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
So we quit.<br /> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Idea for now: climb, climb and share climbing.<br /> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><br /></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Sharing started with the Dutch Drytool Event, clinics, teaching young climbers the drytooling skills and 2015 started with a lecture about what we’d done last year.<br /> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Inspiration for the new year.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEqLS0Bggr2WR3wCdAKctmhgFDrqhYJAJoN3oDmUUSqjxl7ZatQWgid_6SPqAW5b5rGN1Eq4HlO-tmH6CSSy7MKXe2YSnk6fDmfqTbeH2cel__MKXXXU_gHZKE0aSzcZJtn-uGw/s1600/IMG_2204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEqLS0Bggr2WR3wCdAKctmhgFDrqhYJAJoN3oDmUUSqjxl7ZatQWgid_6SPqAW5b5rGN1Eq4HlO-tmH6CSSy7MKXe2YSnk6fDmfqTbeH2cel__MKXXXU_gHZKE0aSzcZJtn-uGw/s1600/IMG_2204.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /> <span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><br /></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
We can live with just very little. We don’t have a home (thanks mum and dad for being the best hotel in the world) and we don’t have much we travel with.<br /> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Just Climbuz and our climbing equipment. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
In return we share our experiences, teach courses about safety, techniques, skills and basics, build the climbing community, support business like our home-gym, compete in international competitions, and most of all motivate you!</span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
As reward you will get a mention on our website with a link to your company/website.</span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Depending on the support there will be more in return (of course). </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
Think of a lecture, private drytool/climbing clinic, t-shirt with our logo...</span><br />
<br />
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">This means we can use some support. Not only a pair of shoes, no. Diesel and food is what we basically need. </span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span><br /></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">For just a little effort of €100,- you can be our supporter, our friend. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Feel free to e-mail us to meet up and talk about the possibilities: <a href="mailto:info@verticallife.nl"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #001ba6; text-decoration: underline;">info@verticallife.nl</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span><br /></div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-91532029678517747032014-12-31T12:02:00.002+01:002014-12-31T12:03:30.102+01:00Vertical Life<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJc_X5qe3mDYogKGOoLwDT7HhOJL6NfDXJTvaY1FUtBQA20xWl1VM51-7BM7T3T9779OQtZGCcQ_EfT3nNDRD0SVq2HRHXwvP3r6MHzer_EquX5_tsKdX0gLFv6UbngsKlDH-9Yw/s1600/DSC_5719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJc_X5qe3mDYogKGOoLwDT7HhOJL6NfDXJTvaY1FUtBQA20xWl1VM51-7BM7T3T9779OQtZGCcQ_EfT3nNDRD0SVq2HRHXwvP3r6MHzer_EquX5_tsKdX0gLFv6UbngsKlDH-9Yw/s1600/DSC_5719.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Vertical Life is what my blog is all about.<br />
But it doesn't make much sense to post all twice. First here on this blog, then on Dennis website and maybe then somewhere else too.<br />
So. A new site. For both of us.<br />
My blog will stay in use, but the main site will be our new joint website.<br />
<br />
With our new site we will inspire, motivate and entertain you and even more: we want to have a forum on where everyone can have an open discussion about climbing and travelling related issues.<br />
<br />
We're still working on the site but the basics are online here:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://verticallife.nl/">Verticallife.nl</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-46089894325720478462014-12-22T09:33:00.000+01:002014-12-22T15:01:14.191+01:00Lecture Sat. January 3. 2015 - Inspiration for the new year!Recognize the banner on top of my blog?<br />
Let's talk about it.<br />
Together with Dennis van Hoek I'll hold a lecture about iceclimbing and other vertical adventures.<br />
Location: climbing gym Monte Cervino, Bergschenhoek (NL)<br />
Time: 19:00<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
On the day we'll hold a special drytool clinic.<br />
<br />
Subscribe and join through our FB event pages.<br />
<br />
Lecture:<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/events/315530775311343/<br />
<br />
Clinic:<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/events/1540305216214214/<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPseAsIC5sOtZoAGVNKoNqEUo5TKlqx7aFv5wkALSgpZ0fgK2WPopmRTvJAwXs0DEd52Xcg9Qb5Ox5JV1s1BnkNNQBZCGgEQqFjYnn5HgQSSbMv6HzuLIgVIQ2fa0sATIhsE44A/s1600/Poster+ijsklimmen+lezing+3+januari+2015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPseAsIC5sOtZoAGVNKoNqEUo5TKlqx7aFv5wkALSgpZ0fgK2WPopmRTvJAwXs0DEd52Xcg9Qb5Ox5JV1s1BnkNNQBZCGgEQqFjYnn5HgQSSbMv6HzuLIgVIQ2fa0sATIhsE44A/s1600/Poster+ijsklimmen+lezing+3+januari+2015.jpg" height="640" width="451" /></a></div>
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-2076603483699332492014-12-08T14:19:00.001+01:002014-12-08T16:26:54.286+01:00DDE 2014On Sunday evening last week I arrived in the Netherlands.<br />
I had to walk to the climbing gym in the rain (as there is still no bus stop close by).<br />
The gym was going to be my new home for the next week.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ekkLUfRtbka0zbDGaFbMBuWsuO9yljN1SwTfgnXAqeYZK1OZnWx-5N3PY4zSPCJq-9Ejx-eZNNmO1JPhP17mLiHGbTtf91qRm886QgKQ7sr-TkZhDcni2bhTqFWini0OZFN2xg/s1600/DSC_5330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ekkLUfRtbka0zbDGaFbMBuWsuO9yljN1SwTfgnXAqeYZK1OZnWx-5N3PY4zSPCJq-9Ejx-eZNNmO1JPhP17mLiHGbTtf91qRm886QgKQ7sr-TkZhDcni2bhTqFWini0OZFN2xg/s1600/DSC_5330.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My bedroom gives me good dreams</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I had just five days to set 22 drytooling routes on the outer wall of the gym.<br />
<br />
In the rain, the cold, the wind, and the darkness I worked full time form 9 in the morning till after 11 in the evening.<br />
<br />
Luckily a couple friends had been working really hard too the previous weeks.<br />
Bas and Rick have done a fantastic job by putting ropes in the anchors, hauling wood blocks up the wall and even setting quite a few routes.<br />
Also Marit, Tim, Tom, Erik, Richard, Elwin and Fedor helped out with the routesetting. Elwin even set the hardest route in the qualifications. It turned out to be a pretty hard route as only two competitors managed to climb it flash!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qp32PIwYwqNy7PnO22JwHh7uOakGOPnm1jsLsjjLgRfjf-MmjOk9nTf5ENzkpqZpXC8RA13AEKchsDTbPDuXjlTHasinxB_z1vZM3a_EVQrKbgHmgDmeK-5V15z25U_NJiTLcw/s1600/DSC_5331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qp32PIwYwqNy7PnO22JwHh7uOakGOPnm1jsLsjjLgRfjf-MmjOk9nTf5ENzkpqZpXC8RA13AEKchsDTbPDuXjlTHasinxB_z1vZM3a_EVQrKbgHmgDmeK-5V15z25U_NJiTLcw/s1600/DSC_5331.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tree-team</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAwoDlkiR33ziR_2wCB-pEsk8yDEmlfVb-Ph43ACplHi0_zRYKLgGcdhJ8PSxGlAGOInuftp0BfvRK4WpWLV3UL0-Lslmh6hABw1T6R-EBs6mM1fiEi4XrvN3bl264BWQWZoUYw/s1600/DSC_5361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAwoDlkiR33ziR_2wCB-pEsk8yDEmlfVb-Ph43ACplHi0_zRYKLgGcdhJ8PSxGlAGOInuftp0BfvRK4WpWLV3UL0-Lslmh6hABw1T6R-EBs6mM1fiEi4XrvN3bl264BWQWZoUYw/s1600/DSC_5361.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That took quite some pulling getting such a huge pole between my legs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnFfMT-CCNVrk6ooIkmO6ySV2gs9s3b8V8jZJO04YGMbU-s6ZWog5WQ0XQIwMoHCKAZ1sZ3rLxzX637cWGtF8VGZ4CXrTPVYTWJmHbbVwv8ZaMDairk_XK-w9hBPTcaIAL2kJ0w/s1600/DSC_5373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnFfMT-CCNVrk6ooIkmO6ySV2gs9s3b8V8jZJO04YGMbU-s6ZWog5WQ0XQIwMoHCKAZ1sZ3rLxzX637cWGtF8VGZ4CXrTPVYTWJmHbbVwv8ZaMDairk_XK-w9hBPTcaIAL2kJ0w/s1600/DSC_5373.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nuff said</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
19 different qualification routes in varying difficulty from D3+ to D9+ and then two finals (at about D8+ and D11+)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ4nXSi6zme0B1iNVHTm1MeEQfcYIcqI0eXPNHmmMADWwdSBZNvGSkjUwjrIJPdjkRsaolv90dbxPMIe_Yr_yFz56xpmcbYoBpZsyCpPbwe3a29Vmi5Aws3VTeMsjQ6Mgb8iW7gQ/s1600/DSC_5350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ4nXSi6zme0B1iNVHTm1MeEQfcYIcqI0eXPNHmmMADWwdSBZNvGSkjUwjrIJPdjkRsaolv90dbxPMIe_Yr_yFz56xpmcbYoBpZsyCpPbwe3a29Vmi5Aws3VTeMsjQ6Mgb8iW7gQ/s1600/DSC_5350.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rick testing one of the routes by night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigySDxpgIKIx54hjeEnDwEpyR6Jv-ioXe-BW7zH6-I4u72FwFLDqQyo6rBDIwm-_4uSfhh0RNC9BhVQqSeHtB29pXBix0bc-3sakGuz17cuVr6Ndu42Hp2IIRB4yIE_vGXvWfzRg/s1600/DSC_5400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigySDxpgIKIx54hjeEnDwEpyR6Jv-ioXe-BW7zH6-I4u72FwFLDqQyo6rBDIwm-_4uSfhh0RNC9BhVQqSeHtB29pXBix0bc-3sakGuz17cuVr6Ndu42Hp2IIRB4yIE_vGXvWfzRg/s1600/DSC_5400.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wall is ready</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On friday evening I had something different then drytooling. 'Sinterklaas'.<br />
<br />
Every year we celebrate 'Saint Nicholas'-day on December 5.<br />
<br />
The Saint was a good man from Turkey, living in Spain who freed child-slaves and gave them food, a job and housing. The myth says he went by ship to the Netherlands and we always tell children he brings presents for you when you've been a good child over the last year.<br />
The saint has 'little helpers' called Zwarte Piet (Black Peter) that crawl into the chimney's to fill your shoes with presents. The chimneys made the faces 'black as soot'.<br />
Traditionally we buy presents for the whole family and make 'surprises' and a long poem about the tone receiving the present. The idea is to make fun of the others in the poem. Discuss things that happend during the past year, like a car crash, new job, favorite food or something they're scared of.<br />
<br />
I drew Dennis for the surprise-poem thing. So I had to make something for him and buy him €15,- present.<br />
Okay...what to buy for someone who doesn't like to get presents, doesn't like to get goods as he gets emotionally attached to it and then never dares to throw it away when broken or not longer useful.<br />
<br />
Peter, the owner of the Monte Cervino gym was working on his present. An artistic impression of a guitar. Or apple, or softball-bat, or... the idea was a guitar.<br />
He was using extremely old wood, over a 1000 years old from the old docks in the Rotterdam harbor.<br />
As I've studied Forest and Nature Conservation I knew a bit about the wood and figured it was Basralocus. When looking for it online I couldn't even find an English wiki for the wood.<br />
The wood he was working on probably comes from Suriname (South America) and it's know for it's high silica content. As it doesn't grow fungae and is really dense (it doesn't float but sinks) it's often used for docks and other water works.<br />
And he had much more of it. Oh, I should ditch the paper-folding-T3-conversion idea and go for this. Make Dennis a present that is utterly useless but too beautiful to ever throw away and then hide the actual present inside it.<br />
Peter and I decided to make a stone. A stone out of wood. I just got two old ices crews from Vera and there we had it. Cutting, filing, shaping, sanding... Every evening and every day of the week Peter, Arjen and I worked on the stone for a bit. On thursday Peter oiled the stone and suddenly it got his whole beauty. The reddish wood with all the lines and even more special, I had the core of the tree in the middle of the stone. On the side I put the old icecrew and the wood was suddenly a story. It almost shone energy, 1000 year old vibrances of energy.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile Dennis was on his way from Germany with two friends/colleagues; Vitus and Jan.<br />
The deal: you dress up as Zwarte Piet and you get free food, beer and a place to sleep over the weekend.<br />
They accepted the deal.<br />
Was hastily got them into their costume and just minutes after we all nicely sat in the living room they nocked hard on the door and jumped in with the presents. Dennis' dad started singing "Sinterklaasje kom maar binnen met je knecht..." and all others joined in.<br />
It was hilarious, <span style="text-align: center;">such a surprise and everyone had so much fun!</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XMJ5srxe60K1bVtZwo2NNCSk81OuheNnS-0Fc7lBd09tX0WlgPZwBkdAD7Pkn6OF3DcSe061zmRrnWTHVzHlYqo6GOgFkWhEIQnjGJfRCcKn4Pp5fjOp9fIXgvaX4xHFss_kAA/s1600/DSC_5422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XMJ5srxe60K1bVtZwo2NNCSk81OuheNnS-0Fc7lBd09tX0WlgPZwBkdAD7Pkn6OF3DcSe061zmRrnWTHVzHlYqo6GOgFkWhEIQnjGJfRCcKn4Pp5fjOp9fIXgvaX4xHFss_kAA/s1600/DSC_5422.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jan and Vitus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On Saturday morning all was ready for drytooling.<br />
Volunteers showed up and the who circus started running.<br />
My parents did the subscriptions, Arjen and Peter the finances and Rutger did an amazing job with all the registrations.<br />
Outside there were fires, tents, flags and Peter had sausages for sale.<br />
Inside there was free pea soup for all competitors.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3ASy_JVbpiAoIJsc4T-85WE5ersmg5yuC2HOLGcyN-Fmp1PRJ1ZkxmQaEDZYU1f6X-eHofrU54hbYz7k-wiJAhAuar4smB-GVAzl3N_4yz-l5QZqIc8mfMdjXUMbAyf-pBsq0A/s1600/DSC_5441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3ASy_JVbpiAoIJsc4T-85WE5ersmg5yuC2HOLGcyN-Fmp1PRJ1ZkxmQaEDZYU1f6X-eHofrU54hbYz7k-wiJAhAuar4smB-GVAzl3N_4yz-l5QZqIc8mfMdjXUMbAyf-pBsq0A/s1600/DSC_5441.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first routes are being climbed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobS3IvVPPl9L5MvnkVY4R7zCA3AWbn_QDD85v_oTJiGJ2hINzF-UlaJYcEBx2heyY68T-nrRGKVB8SZAqa5oXfK2Gc3RlssCerhdRmUpJjxVshPWgNcW0QCNS737CQobuPreqwQ/s1600/DSC_5466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobS3IvVPPl9L5MvnkVY4R7zCA3AWbn_QDD85v_oTJiGJ2hINzF-UlaJYcEBx2heyY68T-nrRGKVB8SZAqa5oXfK2Gc3RlssCerhdRmUpJjxVshPWgNcW0QCNS737CQobuPreqwQ/s1600/DSC_5466.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maya having fun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeou4uxrLviwqW5SKiP2aNFfmHJIosLnMa7ulQ6_vdMKLuohaPCPAhe1hWsj3Oh4z_5O5NKBw8Ss80aCDH6_7Y9XgGshHu1ciQG-H3wonYfMGDEDvIXV-OFL0LrN046QFWT8Arg/s1600/DSC_5532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeou4uxrLviwqW5SKiP2aNFfmHJIosLnMa7ulQ6_vdMKLuohaPCPAhe1hWsj3Oh4z_5O5NKBw8Ss80aCDH6_7Y9XgGshHu1ciQG-H3wonYfMGDEDvIXV-OFL0LrN046QFWT8Arg/s1600/DSC_5532.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dennis climbing Elwin's route</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXP4oHBY9Y50e4ja5MRmp6sRbnEEAdB4t1KhuzxUswdQE8Oe3jyTMRtY8slJEBXDwwyRhcI2w2d4XBg4_uba50K-buFpWfBgSJdh72rS7bH4vqKjwc5o540vtql7x8ck01aZFS8A/s1600/10425499_10204800695251259_3544205574596382689_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXP4oHBY9Y50e4ja5MRmp6sRbnEEAdB4t1KhuzxUswdQE8Oe3jyTMRtY8slJEBXDwwyRhcI2w2d4XBg4_uba50K-buFpWfBgSJdh72rS7bH4vqKjwc5o540vtql7x8ck01aZFS8A/s1600/10425499_10204800695251259_3544205574596382689_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weird people</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgLwUa16tcB6dlvntj9nkLvOKTzg3J63x_cRi2fZCykyrnAcZUm8I-RYVXQTShgJjh7ku0HQCohbr-hGEenb2UwtJMms_2TyU24D_n62r7W0U8o8mBbCxGm5tSNNArWek9629zA/s1600/DSC_5483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgLwUa16tcB6dlvntj9nkLvOKTzg3J63x_cRi2fZCykyrnAcZUm8I-RYVXQTShgJjh7ku0HQCohbr-hGEenb2UwtJMms_2TyU24D_n62r7W0U8o8mBbCxGm5tSNNArWek9629zA/s1600/DSC_5483.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The idea was to hang under the tree...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11FIM6LwtoC9JEfV2j0Mvvt7tlMAbrP6_39hDEC1V8R6P0_pskCsu8TgHFf-7FtNhDq4qTV2NWkktu0rmbXjfBR13-sDfzG55mviEKu3-4iQhkFnwJ0k3KYhXTcZXF8zVweCaMg/s1600/DSC_5549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11FIM6LwtoC9JEfV2j0Mvvt7tlMAbrP6_39hDEC1V8R6P0_pskCsu8TgHFf-7FtNhDq4qTV2NWkktu0rmbXjfBR13-sDfzG55mviEKu3-4iQhkFnwJ0k3KYhXTcZXF8zVweCaMg/s1600/DSC_5549.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ape-factor XXL</td></tr>
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<br />
From 10am to 3pm everyone was free to climb. Flash, all routes had to be climbed flash to get the points. With so many competitors (97 in total, too bad not all subscribed and filled in their scores so on the end results it doesn't show) we had to have that rule. If you fall you're out and that hight is your final score. Though there were 19 routes, so enough for everyone.<br />
Some did make some tactical mistakes, like staying too long in the easier routes or going too fast in the harder routes and slipping off the first holds...<br />
Jelle had some really bad luck, twisting a hold twice (=technical incident) and so 'waisting' energy he didn't have enough time in the end to reach the high score needed for the finals. I think he could have done really well in the finals too.<br />
<br />
The atmosphere was positive, friendly and open with only one minor accident. A climber forgot to tighten his helmet and dropped his helmet half way in the route.<br />
Much better then last year where I unfortunately had to disqualify a climber.<br />
It was all so positive this time, so satisfying!<br />
People liked the routes, the sun shone, the music was good, no-one stole ice axes, the soup was warm and time was flying! Before I knew it, it was time to start the finals.<br />
<br />
Rutger and my parents were counting the results rapidly. Tim and I hung in the wall to adjust the lighting and the holds.<br />
It was getting colder and darker but still quite a bunch of people stayed to watch the finals.<br />
<br />
The six men and women were inside, warming up and getting nervous. Whilst outside the first woman started her climb. Noel Diepens.<br />
She was actually not in the finals but as number 6 didn't show up she was added to the finals.<br />
When she passed the wood-log I got a little worried. She climbed well, very well. What if all the other girls would do the same, then the finals would be too easy...<br />
Kind of 'luckily' she didn't make it to the merge of the men's finals. But for a new-be to drytooling, this was a really impressive climb!<br />
The next climber was Jojanneke. The crew of 'IGOKO' a new online climbing shop. She's tall and really could use her length. Unfortunately she didn't get as high as her support-team was hoping for.<br />
Aniek was next. It wasn't her first time in the finals and a couple weeks ago she won the Sportsclimbing Junior Nationals. Not very tall but very strong she got further and further up the wall. The women had 12 minutes to climb. Maybe too much time as it got a little boring to watch the lack of speed. When Aniek got the "one minute" warning she speeded up and slipped off exactly when she timed out. Reaching a new high point.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Mdc1-f7naCdT0KiaWmIylxP54KjcfSulQpXpGYhcEcBnBzJhSFm-nH8vr8fTzCGffRn-9z0ke690krtGQdDAeJjmB7t03QdXwv2bNngzaioNmR4PZqQK2M7pfk6VjNxsw-cw0Q/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Mdc1-f7naCdT0KiaWmIylxP54KjcfSulQpXpGYhcEcBnBzJhSFm-nH8vr8fTzCGffRn-9z0ke690krtGQdDAeJjmB7t03QdXwv2bNngzaioNmR4PZqQK2M7pfk6VjNxsw-cw0Q/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-5.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aniek in the finals (photo Jan Hoffmann)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Marin was next to climb. She had an advantage, but her advantage became a disadvantage. The small holds from Edelrid is what she'd been training on lately. But she thought when they were turned in a certain way you could only use them as stein-pull. She lost so much energy on this and fell off early then I expected.<br />
Maya to climb next. She's the daughter of former ice climbing team member and this year's routesetter Elwin. Reaching the finals and qualified second proves she's got the talent too.<br />
Unfortunately she lost her iceaxe in the middle of her climb and thus had to stop climbing...<br />
Finally Anna had to climb. Anna is doing really well in Scotland on the comps and this is her training for the world cup season. I was expecting her to win, but I was curious with how much difference to the other competitors she'd have.<br />
Getting higher in the route she didn't seem as pumped as the others and just made the move where Aniek slipped off. In the chain (the end of the men's finals) she fiddled with her axes and lost one!<br />
Losing an axe means 'out' and her time was almost out too. Still good enough for a first place :)<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj29Xvy22Le8y7qQU1q9RXSG1QUl3_KEo2aYobenLjQUjHITPjs6GsXTRVzznfapMrVfseXUdNyU8fd8AldrlDtbzripUx9NakfTQdxOXLR774MceVRLdaSFhIbC3Zz3U9ot3lzmg/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj29Xvy22Le8y7qQU1q9RXSG1QUl3_KEo2aYobenLjQUjHITPjs6GsXTRVzznfapMrVfseXUdNyU8fd8AldrlDtbzripUx9NakfTQdxOXLR774MceVRLdaSFhIbC3Zz3U9ot3lzmg/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-6.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna in the finals (photo Jan Hoffmann)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The men's finals was a different story, also for me.<br />
It took me three tries to climb the route in once within the time, so I knew it was possible but not easy at all! Long moves, technical moves, tricky holds and little time: I'd set the time first on 7 minutes but decided to change the time to 8 minutes when I did the final briefing to the competitors.<br />
<br />
Maxime, Tom, Harry, Laurens, Fedor and Dennis qualified for the finals.<br />
Maxime from Belgium was first to climb. We met Maxime last Spring on the Kahiltna Glacier in Alaska where they also climbed the Moonflower Buttress. Great to see him here again in a totally different scenery and performing well again. I expected an clear result: battle between Harry and Dennis, Fedor just below, maybe something good by Laurens and then 'the others'.<br />
Though, that didn't really go as I thought. Maxime got so high in the route! Again I got nervous...what would the others do now...?<br />
Tom to climb. You could see he was not as experienced as Maxime with the axes yet but still managed to use creativity to get high. It was his goal to reach the finals and he did it!<br />
Harry to climb. He got higher, higher, but the moves sometimes seemed a little long for him. The time was running and when going passed the chain at the top of the wall he timed out... Still a few climbers to go...!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXbrM-403JllXjIcd8NeCb3rgHCISpl58DK_Ly_pSpfDQdhuEaVuGnZiWkHtOeIFHYT28_gjSmk_pBrzdX6qVd9DI_tRbocwXEN6dhk8ZNVMGxujiJZ8FFUUjOa7btDum5uU5qg/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXbrM-403JllXjIcd8NeCb3rgHCISpl58DK_Ly_pSpfDQdhuEaVuGnZiWkHtOeIFHYT28_gjSmk_pBrzdX6qVd9DI_tRbocwXEN6dhk8ZNVMGxujiJZ8FFUUjOa7btDum5uU5qg/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1)-4.jpg" height="320" width="169" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power move by Harry Holmes (photo: Jan Hoffmann)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Laurens' turn. He's tall. And that helps when drytooling. And it was not his first time he reached the finals. One axe still at the top of the chain and one axe in the wood he timed out, so close to the top!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjhi7ay8zd0pIgoN16Smo7_3FupWDVlRRJ5I1JEGzE5AhzVViU_NlRzv1aPogxP5PY7dgqmpxVP6f20c7DEofC3hLQ9D3REu_8RxA2hACZk1A74O4BxEMJzahGL4BQPqMjwNdow/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjhi7ay8zd0pIgoN16Smo7_3FupWDVlRRJ5I1JEGzE5AhzVViU_NlRzv1aPogxP5PY7dgqmpxVP6f20c7DEofC3hLQ9D3REu_8RxA2hACZk1A74O4BxEMJzahGL4BQPqMjwNdow/s1600/DTE+(1%2Bof%2B1).jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laurens running against the time (photo: Jan Hoffmann)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Fedor's turn to climb. Ex-iceclimbing-team-member and still very much into the stuff with ice axes. I know what he climbs...he should do well.<br />
Though in the middle of the route he slipped! All axes off the wall he suddenly was flying in the darkness...<br />
Just one more to go. Dennis.<br />
Of course I wanted him to win but the vertical wall the unknown small technical holds and my routesetting style are not really his strong points.<br />
Could he do it?<br />
I was nervous!<br />
Just a few moves up the wall he placed his aggressive Krugonogi Giraffe pick as semi-steinpull in the hold. None of the climbers had used the hold that way. Jelle, who was sitting next to me said he didn't understand why Dennis was using the hold so strangely. The crowd was silent. Suddenly the hold broke! I expected it. Why would you use it in this way?<br />
Technical incident and thus second attempt...<br />
I replaced the hold and Dennis had to climb again.<br />
He moved steady up the wall and clearly had more speed then the other climbers. With just over 2 minutes left he got at the start of the chain. Most climbers timed-out at this point where Dennis had enough time to top the route. The move from the log to the next Edelrid hold was long. Inspired by the DTS of the previous weekend I knew this moves were possible. Dennis tried and just didn't grab the hold, tried again. Again. The crowd was screaming. And I was so hoping he could do it!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7HN8BmTsmqeLpnidDAInMGAkXzqYtTnk-tp6U_0DBGUrCRfBEHBd9HyXZw1HS4GCc8HxJ0lmk02NOaT6Vr0G23T1qeLqvzJFsGXAStHJyXAeODGZ6tgVW1tWPEUakSdo9HoUyA/s1600/IMG_7053.CR2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7HN8BmTsmqeLpnidDAInMGAkXzqYtTnk-tp6U_0DBGUrCRfBEHBd9HyXZw1HS4GCc8HxJ0lmk02NOaT6Vr0G23T1qeLqvzJFsGXAStHJyXAeODGZ6tgVW1tWPEUakSdo9HoUyA/s1600/IMG_7053.CR2" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dennis running for the first place (photo Jan Hoffmann)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
He passed the 'one-minute-warning' and tried again. I knew the move was long. Come on, put your feet in the chain, grab the axe on the top and go for it! Once again he just missed the hold and fully timed-out!<br />
Ohh! I so wished he would have topped the route! Luckily still enough for a first place :)<br />
<br />
Final results can be found here:<br />
http://was.shiftf5.nl/competitions/view/3171<br />
More pictures soon on the DDE Facbook site here: https://www.facebook.com/DutchDrytoolEvent<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTt6iMR4J87BA-9EXbg9TKajZKMZSFC3qmDMsNdPtrvKjolmXFHK6MlBGV457i2nj3x0K14gZG3-HdcID7P_2jxFzVHv0s76dGW_48ZtFd3si9U2brSbbtw14V3lr7UE0P4oYLg/s1600/10392368_1527857410806313_1357660933229634250_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTt6iMR4J87BA-9EXbg9TKajZKMZSFC3qmDMsNdPtrvKjolmXFHK6MlBGV457i2nj3x0K14gZG3-HdcID7P_2jxFzVHv0s76dGW_48ZtFd3si9U2brSbbtw14V3lr7UE0P4oYLg/s1600/10392368_1527857410806313_1357660933229634250_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Tired but happy we went home.<br />
<br />
But the weekend wasn't over yet.<br />
Sunday morning we stood at the gym again. For the first time we'd have kids drytooling!<br />
A group of young kids from 8 to 19 years old came to learn the new climbing.<br />
We had the worst weather possible: rain and wind and almost freezing.<br />
Still all dressed up well and we climbed outside for the whole day.<br />
So impressive to see the group climb the same routes as the adults did the day before! And swinging the tools was amazing to watch.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOxwFmlpymCKgv5EEtGPTgbjdV8k5cJuSZF64T7B48A5G5Ve4iALYEVaqBgQ34NWv1nlkXJVymkAGns5zu0m6Iq5ZakJgVXF4xXJPTDqJpc3SljEOKI_4XEOtI7U2L5himaUfcUQ/s1600/IMG_2954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOxwFmlpymCKgv5EEtGPTgbjdV8k5cJuSZF64T7B48A5G5Ve4iALYEVaqBgQ34NWv1nlkXJVymkAGns5zu0m6Iq5ZakJgVXF4xXJPTDqJpc3SljEOKI_4XEOtI7U2L5himaUfcUQ/s1600/IMG_2954.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Dennis to young climber Letho: "Oh, you better don't use those tools, it's kind of hard to swing them into the wood". The young eight year old tells him "nee hoor", walks to the wood and shows a perfect swing getting my Grivel Froce axes perfectly into the wood.<br />
We really had fun!<br />
Hopefully we can do this more often and establish a youth team within the next 2 years.<br />
<br />
That evening Dennis, Vitus, Jan and I drove back to Isny. And today it's office life again. I'm happy I ran this morning (in the snow).<br />
<br />
The NKBV just wrote a very nice report with pictures on their website:<br />
http://www.nkbv.nl/home/actueel/Winterklimseizoen+geopend+met+Petzl+Drytool+Event/9114<br />
<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-62849718358929747502014-11-30T11:56:00.001+01:002014-11-30T21:10:36.096+01:00The DTS at Usine<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">The train takes long. Forever long. The only entertainment left was my mobile phone after I finished all the work on my laptop. My e-book had an empty battery and I couldn't fit knitting needles in my two stuffed bags. </span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
On Facebook the 'should-the-Dutch-Climbing-Federation-tell-climbers-how-to-use-a-Figure-of-Eight-"belay-device"-discussion' got pretty spicy. Good entertainment for me. I mostly don't comment when I see totally senseless reactions, but this time I couldn't resist. Online it's still going on 2 days later now. I don't care anymore. I had different things on my mind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuYMdfISd0KKnvGKtuYAh5Br9-vyWGzmsgBkefhsgs5EufNf7s8YX9LL6Zea6NNWu4PntoO1MPLVkoVj0CyHufVMwyBZNg_l7EC7HGIsrwNo7QKCeKs81yj34E7ulKa_BagdcmWw/s1600/2014-11-27+20.52.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuYMdfISd0KKnvGKtuYAh5Br9-vyWGzmsgBkefhsgs5EufNf7s8YX9LL6Zea6NNWu4PntoO1MPLVkoVj0CyHufVMwyBZNg_l7EC7HGIsrwNo7QKCeKs81yj34E7ulKa_BagdcmWw/s1600/2014-11-27+20.52.49.png" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Facebook...oh, Facebook...</td></tr>
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Drytooling.</div>
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Gaetan picked me up from the trainstation in Grenoble. His livingroom was now my bedroom.</div>
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On Saturday he and some friends organised the 'Dry Tool Style' in Usine, a massive drytool area in Voreppe (next to Grenoble). It was the final of a series of friendly competitions in French drytool areas. All in real rock, totally different from most other competitions that are often held on artificial walls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMqjGP3ufhJZU1aAJrM7CNToTW53hJjIQ93IaomgWgTS6keozitmenGS1LPv3NHhn8QQOeUa0bqJnsFpdg2A3mXUiPnPzJiPT_FRAvnYZwIv0yrcdrECfn82UAsDXW9dhOh9BjA/s1600/DSC_5299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMqjGP3ufhJZU1aAJrM7CNToTW53hJjIQ93IaomgWgTS6keozitmenGS1LPv3NHhn8QQOeUa0bqJnsFpdg2A3mXUiPnPzJiPT_FRAvnYZwIv0yrcdrECfn82UAsDXW9dhOh9BjA/s1600/DSC_5299.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The marking below the cave</td></tr>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEildEOdIgoncsBUfpZgc4RanLM-qwLUPrU1EWHwkH7i6TGS2GhFIQteHfzenYXU_d16ecs3TI_tZhso3Cu0uF-VGtTEFhdX4jIoj8V_nwHRRDX5wVXA3ygImRWbQOhBU-uK0Tv7jg/s640/blogger-image-2056271825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEildEOdIgoncsBUfpZgc4RanLM-qwLUPrU1EWHwkH7i6TGS2GhFIQteHfzenYXU_d16ecs3TI_tZhso3Cu0uF-VGtTEFhdX4jIoj8V_nwHRRDX5wVXA3ygImRWbQOhBU-uK0Tv7jg/s320/blogger-image-2056271825.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun, the cliffs. What more you you need in life :)</td></tr>
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On Friday I helped out preparing the cliff. I belayed Pierre, did gardening and enjoyed the sunny day and good view. So much better then my regular office job.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiys0eLd07snn6Zt7fAQDLahyypRqYK3J4bwOeEpCWCxL0gYOfFNmBVUZuGDPv4_WvGqNWvNNfmzFOj-M2Q13mbKIKSTiBnTnHqxI-ltg1siquGGahR5ZiOK76jJRJLzgpxcrw3AA/s1600/2014-11-28+10.03.16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiys0eLd07snn6Zt7fAQDLahyypRqYK3J4bwOeEpCWCxL0gYOfFNmBVUZuGDPv4_WvGqNWvNNfmzFOj-M2Q13mbKIKSTiBnTnHqxI-ltg1siquGGahR5ZiOK76jJRJLzgpxcrw3AA/s1600/2014-11-28+10.03.16.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaetan doing some advanced gardening</td></tr>
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Usine is a huge cave. The rock on the sides is so compact that is pretty much feature-less. The back of the cave is loose and couldn't even be bolted. Everywhere you see blobs of moss and water dripping down. In the past it had been mined for roof tiles. Before someone lived in the cave, a guy called Bibi. Locals therefor call the cave after Bibi instead of Usine. (Usine means factory, named after the noisy concrete factory underneath the cave)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GZvLMfnmosyI8BdTKjazvuGomy5QrKeawaOGovh0vOC1f2QUnaTP1ggRwdwF6e4FdTLtblpyWC9f8XoeUHPCOtfjuN6mZIywPBvkyJ939WoCpfUjc9-qeBXlkzLPn1ysymhkpQ/s1600/DSC_5287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GZvLMfnmosyI8BdTKjazvuGomy5QrKeawaOGovh0vOC1f2QUnaTP1ggRwdwF6e4FdTLtblpyWC9f8XoeUHPCOtfjuN6mZIywPBvkyJ939WoCpfUjc9-qeBXlkzLPn1ysymhkpQ/s1600/DSC_5287.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The factory below the cave</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBaeDBHJEEJtjRb-5-0FyO1ge-F8O-8UiEUcCDRlgU6tKlK6TEz3pZ_IYbZZqU0jmIceRAOe_XzoUGGdtCgrymftQfaOU4zTW13DsC8JCAztFgMiNKvOIDGUX_MdhkmovxMN7dQ/s1600/DSC_5292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBaeDBHJEEJtjRb-5-0FyO1ge-F8O-8UiEUcCDRlgU6tKlK6TEz3pZ_IYbZZqU0jmIceRAOe_XzoUGGdtCgrymftQfaOU4zTW13DsC8JCAztFgMiNKvOIDGUX_MdhkmovxMN7dQ/s1600/DSC_5292.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ze Jezus</td></tr>
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A painting in the left side of the cave reminds of Bibi, in rusty brown a Jezus-like figure with a bottle and a big bird decorates the cliff. You need a bit of imagination to spot the big painting though. Once a year he sold home-made spirits (or something) to the villagers, maybe that explains the bottle in his hand.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5siwbHW6wNS_pSB8CN2Z8XVgGE8eokTv0zAtVXkOx7NoS4OjAki-HLBcjE3fwsQPyIE6Dc9pi-gE5kEOpOaER6W94ZphpPweN10ErtjJ4ZP5e-DiFtkBttjSp4CTmYyhZdii_w/s1600/DSC_5294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5siwbHW6wNS_pSB8CN2Z8XVgGE8eokTv0zAtVXkOx7NoS4OjAki-HLBcjE3fwsQPyIE6Dc9pi-gE5kEOpOaER6W94ZphpPweN10ErtjJ4ZP5e-DiFtkBttjSp4CTmYyhZdii_w/s1600/DSC_5294.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pierre drilling and climbing at the same time</td></tr>
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The cave has had a lot of different functions. The Swastika cross they hacked away. </div>
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In the winter of 2008-2009 Gaëtan and Etienne (if I'm correct) re-discovered the cave. It was immediately clear the cave couldn't be used for Sportsclimbing. The bolts that were there already were of an old aid route. Gaetan and friends invited their super strong climbing friends (9a climbers) to discover any possibilities for Sportsclimbing, but even they found the cave not fitting Sportsclimbing. </div>
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Route after route got drilled and bolted. Drilled, as there were literary no features at all. And the pockets needed to be deep to maintain them. Impressive routes like the D14 called Bichette are now part of the Drytool Style in Usine.</div>
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And now in Summer time other people use the cave. Non-climbers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiclMkhWscd2thGg5RJ1C6cYhVo5bejF1Ud3TxDZ-igRDYvYTXS5P7BbpfTEp7UxbFGIA9ba5n-9EGsgfbqtBwh47JybRCIOl21ql3rM-jTAgvjiLIOxxLcbQSzfPaQp6jqYQ7V7w/s1600/DSC_5291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiclMkhWscd2thGg5RJ1C6cYhVo5bejF1Ud3TxDZ-igRDYvYTXS5P7BbpfTEp7UxbFGIA9ba5n-9EGsgfbqtBwh47JybRCIOl21ql3rM-jTAgvjiLIOxxLcbQSzfPaQp6jqYQ7V7w/s1600/DSC_5291.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaetan at his Usine office</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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That evening Gaetan even cooked a full meal for me, his brother and friends. Soup, pasta and fruit as dessert. I felt welcome and also privileged.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Saturday. Climbing day. </div>
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We all woke up early and it was still dark when we got at the cliff. It was already busy and people already started climbing. Although this was my second day at the cliff I was still impressed by it's size. Now with all the people in the routes it was even more amazing. All these people are drytooling! I'd never seen such a big group of people drytooling on real rock. </div>
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There was music, crêpes with Nutella, vin chaud, tea, and DTS t-shirts for sale. People with big camera lenses were hanging in the static ropes around the roof of the cave. </div>
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I chatted with different people until they told me it was time to start climbing. I'd have a lot to do. They were right. It was going to be a tough day. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIeBCPup1Dzwu3QgrSK0Sbk_20H6q9c6kJZJg3QePyBgGrsLr2AxL2xDJ4dSmB5WVmQ1aNXqe5NEWnLWF3xL0FY1Ml_zhy8ouCXYs-xroI8iwoZckEBLvfSV-z0XCrO4U4QEOZg/s1600/DSC_5318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZIeBCPup1Dzwu3QgrSK0Sbk_20H6q9c6kJZJg3QePyBgGrsLr2AxL2xDJ4dSmB5WVmQ1aNXqe5NEWnLWF3xL0FY1Ml_zhy8ouCXYs-xroI8iwoZckEBLvfSV-z0XCrO4U4QEOZg/s1600/DSC_5318.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even the best sometimes almost fall ;)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6768HIcrX8MttQJ-wpCrrxMgvOHlx9hXRGIn1ioWMWyWbnLUQnzlaIv2Yg3qj4KwrEhTWVz40by4QTz-BIaLhsjpzndbYxJgGW_CiUyHM5f5rWhDZQ5prOBMBCDgFA3UHEZszQ/s1600/DSC_5321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6768HIcrX8MttQJ-wpCrrxMgvOHlx9hXRGIn1ioWMWyWbnLUQnzlaIv2Yg3qj4KwrEhTWVz40by4QTz-BIaLhsjpzndbYxJgGW_CiUyHM5f5rWhDZQ5prOBMBCDgFA3UHEZszQ/s1600/DSC_5321.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaetan and Jeff showing off</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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I started with some easier routes on the right side of the cave and after a while I found myself in one of the harder routes. A D10, and I flashed it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVW1YLUjKIUi-cZXrpICevHaFb4MKsogLi3M0t9AGilXC3sZqCQnqb8ZbUBCRwzqm2HBF4JzhHTc-Rep8AS4XZYIXOY3lxz8tM7Y3DSOysEYFeO3JzIvhGclWosgVtcDwiiDnpHA/s1600/DSC_5308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVW1YLUjKIUi-cZXrpICevHaFb4MKsogLi3M0t9AGilXC3sZqCQnqb8ZbUBCRwzqm2HBF4JzhHTc-Rep8AS4XZYIXOY3lxz8tM7Y3DSOysEYFeO3JzIvhGclWosgVtcDwiiDnpHA/s1600/DSC_5308.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steph in Infinity, D10</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiezVIiKQ5bw-DTQa_4q_KG7xvdEZ8LnyN6pagVALPWYP8HAAQpHAWFGATCjV3F3JP9uj3ryJTWlzgchzFmTPstz9009ho1eaW0UrkXPezGlnBft7g5auABG4sxEVZSPPucq9pdqg/s1600/DSC_5302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiezVIiKQ5bw-DTQa_4q_KG7xvdEZ8LnyN6pagVALPWYP8HAAQpHAWFGATCjV3F3JP9uj3ryJTWlzgchzFmTPstz9009ho1eaW0UrkXPezGlnBft7g5auABG4sxEVZSPPucq9pdqg/s1600/DSC_5302.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young climber in orange (wannabe Dutch?)</td></tr>
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<br />
Surprised with my own strength I went on to the next route. L'Usine, a D11. I heard all the routes in Usine are rather stiff graded, an Usine D11, would be a D12 or even D12+ at other places. But hey, in the end a grade is just another super relative number. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Slightly nervous I started in the route. My belayer was the local Pack. I spotted him in Infinity, D10, doing a one-armer to clip the next quickdraw. That guy is strong. He'd climbed the route before and gave me all the beta. Telling me I shouldn't do any figure of fours as I wouldn't need them. I wasn't so sure yet and besides, women were allowed to do 'yarinos' as they're called in French. </div>
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I was happy to reach the top and surprised at the same time: I didn't feel that hard! Happy to have flashed the hardest route in the qualifications I went on to do the other ones. Within just a few hours I got third place in the ranking. But not for long. Others that didn't manage to flash the routes still had enough time to project them and still get the points.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinquXoPH-lZ_nZC5ax7BXnzdLl56byxnPHXDQrqEWllpRggrIBI7DmnfWXl0P1ybLywLnXqX6CQLyQb79jSJ98PBU4nVTJDca5eNQHNXrvZlK0nD-LjrHZe1DfmVlXsOxqS_fE3w/s1600/DSC_5322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinquXoPH-lZ_nZC5ax7BXnzdLl56byxnPHXDQrqEWllpRggrIBI7DmnfWXl0P1ybLywLnXqX6CQLyQb79jSJ98PBU4nVTJDca5eNQHNXrvZlK0nD-LjrHZe1DfmVlXsOxqS_fE3w/s1600/DSC_5322.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Results in process</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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I kept on climbing with my new friend Pack and continued flashing the routes. </div>
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At the end I had one route left to climb and still more then enough time to climb it. I decided to leave it, save some skin on my hands and some power in my arms. Although, I still had enough power at the end. I just felt really good and energetic. </div>
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Looking back I wonder...if I would have done it...</div>
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I was already so satisfied and so happy with what I'd climbed I just didn't care about results. Surprising, me not being competitive.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTjtC3lwh0N2f2PKDaM3H7HjPqZlqaPExd1gqHGpZMDxSyUwjItazbFF3SZ_C3hMxTBA1xT6DVbtcyHuWFUyX4_Z7Lclk7HpiBdiIwOOEusu0cOokgAjZtO4M3Dy8MQiV8MT4wg/s1600/DSC_5329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTjtC3lwh0N2f2PKDaM3H7HjPqZlqaPExd1gqHGpZMDxSyUwjItazbFF3SZ_C3hMxTBA1xT6DVbtcyHuWFUyX4_Z7Lclk7HpiBdiIwOOEusu0cOokgAjZtO4M3Dy8MQiV8MT4wg/s1600/DSC_5329.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparations for the finals in the dark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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Stephanie was competitive and wanted to get it all. She climbed them all. The other girl, Coralie, new in the national French team only managed to climb a few routes. She was new to it all. </div>
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I was set for the finals and qualified 6th in the overall ranking. The organisation decided to split the men and women and suddenly we had 11 people in the finals. Steph, the new girl and me were in the women's finals. </div>
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Though, finals weren't about winning so the prices were handed out before the finals actually started. A good idea! </div>
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I got nervous when it was my turn to climb. Already stressed after Steph almost decided to quit. The new French girl was using the super long iceaxes. And why was she in the finals anyway Steph wondered. If she would have known there was a seperate women's finals she would not have climbed as much to reach the finals. I could see her point. This was her show, her place and suddenly some new girl took it and she even used the super long axes! Also, if Coralie would get te first place, it would be the thing people see. Only the first place counts. And that is true, even if it's a friendly competition the winner gets all. And all that will be remembered afterwards online... I remember very well how I found it to become second in Buxton a month ago...</div>
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<br /></div>
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To Steph it was an unfair game. She didn't have her day. Her mind played tricks with her in the routes, suddenly having to project the routes that I flashed was certainly not what she'd expected beforehand. She's a good climber though, very experienced and her competitive and determined style brought her where she is today. A female mountain guide in France, a climber who's winning competitions and last week she even managed to flash the D12 Castor et Pollux. An impressive ascent.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I didn't care too much about the long axes. They fit in the UIAA box, it's strange no company had searched the iceaxe limit so far and personally I never had the feeling I really needed them. I just think you admit your weakness when you climb with super long axes. I often ask the men that use the long axes if they're trying to compensate their small dick. Not sure what I could ask a women...maybe something like 'so you like big things hay?' </div>
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This was not a competition about who has the longest/biggest. It was about personal achievements, fun and friends. It turned out she did have an advantage though. Being taller then both of us, with the extra long axes she managed to reach some holds. Not with style, not with power, but she made it. For her it was a good practice for the worldcup season, it was okay.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMw4ZTsTMTVoU4Bt8uNVTWn4Pkb36W7lMcoZVvnaoCIVwFeiNVQl9G4MDt4yZ-XM9OZinKNl7wqjsnlmJCT8BegwJbMKp-1WhoETxhAJqP3S1RpAygQFuUcJyxvTkVk4-z4sBXA/s1600/DSC_5323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMw4ZTsTMTVoU4Bt8uNVTWn4Pkb36W7lMcoZVvnaoCIVwFeiNVQl9G4MDt4yZ-XM9OZinKNl7wqjsnlmJCT8BegwJbMKp-1WhoETxhAJqP3S1RpAygQFuUcJyxvTkVk4-z4sBXA/s1600/DSC_5323.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coralie on her way to the first place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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My turn to climb. Jeff belayed me. Earlier the super strong Jeff and Gaëtan showed the route so it was a flash comp but the locals in the finals had climbed bits of the route before.</div>
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The first moves were long but I could make them. "Whooo", "sexy" and "lekker lekker" (Dutch for nice or tasty) they screamed to me from the audience. I found it funny. Suddenly one move looked long. Figure of four? I tried, hung around for a bit and tried again. When pulling in the Figure of four on my right axe I suddenly slipped! I was out! Wow! I totally didn't expect to come off. The boys blamed the figure of four. I just didn't knew. I felt bummed! But it was okay, I was happy with my results anyway.</div>
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Just a bit later it was Steph to climb. She also did a figure of four on that same hold and slipped off as well! Wow! Again! I was so surprised! The new girl had beaten us both!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOAZQcqECOX1WwaOXI6GyhG4IL4ozx4w4jXOdGvb4TWN6ZP4wo6SogEynuql62p9NtdBU2k6o2d86IPVINTKvpCbo8QXTrqhq4MMNiLbutZ2f7YxyjZjee8fKgSpnq38EbMVJ6Pg/s1600/2014-11-29+18.28.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOAZQcqECOX1WwaOXI6GyhG4IL4ozx4w4jXOdGvb4TWN6ZP4wo6SogEynuql62p9NtdBU2k6o2d86IPVINTKvpCbo8QXTrqhq4MMNiLbutZ2f7YxyjZjee8fKgSpnq38EbMVJ6Pg/s1600/2014-11-29+18.28.48.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Six Pack Power in the finals ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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It was Pack's turn to climb. He was nervous I noticed. Funny, totally unnecessary as he climbs so well. The men in the DTS series are not allowed to do figure of fours so he pulled his was through with a lot of dynamic power. </div>
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He stalled at a long move in the higher bit of the route. That move was so long! He almost fully dyno-ed and missed! Out! I was really hoping he'd top out the route!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8r4RSceVr6jlDrwkRLBCR0iAk9ywwi2zJCOE2yTMekLQWNwLq9WKWMApZTtbR6J6U4OXN6QQYO5P1nvqmDtM1UKJb9zLrs2_24cabW4r-7hpNRP2ZnTyV9JBXzkP5zLxeJNnzgA/s640/blogger-image-24624897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8r4RSceVr6jlDrwkRLBCR0iAk9ywwi2zJCOE2yTMekLQWNwLq9WKWMApZTtbR6J6U4OXN6QQYO5P1nvqmDtM1UKJb9zLrs2_24cabW4r-7hpNRP2ZnTyV9JBXzkP5zLxeJNnzgA/s320/blogger-image-24624897.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pack falling off...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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When all had climbed I wanted to get a second go. I found I should be able to make the move. Jeff was willing to belay again. No figure of fours. At the move I swung and grabbed it! "I told you, no figure of four" they screamed to me from the ground. They were right. I moved on and on and passed the point where the French girl fell. Again a long move. Sideways. I got the hold, my arms totally stretched to the maximum span. I found a little foothold but Gaëtan screamed 'no feet'. I wasn't so sure about that advice. Got my axe loose and fell! The axe still up in the hold. Again, he was right, no feet would have been better! It took a while before I could get the axe back. It fell to the ground, not the best spot...no one was wearing helmets and it dropped just 2 metres away from the audience (sorry for that...)</div>
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We cleaned up the crag, hauled all down and went to the 'MacDo'. Pack invited me for a party in Grenoble but after we'd dropped off the final stuff in Crolles it was just too late for me. Time to sleep. </div>
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The train right now, Sunday, is not as comfortable as I hoped for. The mother of 2 sitting next to me isn't the best. A crying baby and an horrible kid. For hours and hours they keep on being irritating. The father goes around the train all the time, aggressively taking money from the girls wallet and leaving again. Hopefully I can get some sleep <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors="true">tonight</a>. Dream of powerful drytooling routes. I love that style. DTS spirit it is.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEujM2P3yTEHuwiP4V2brChmSmvfYNCs3Xx6Xs7M9Kvf3j5Ie-xTfYY8tNlBEdzzENMGz_ISCJatNXtXHbPXEdOPcTCpvalQAyCdQFRSAMjRShk4oIctFGTS-MWgWEJMdmH8mfSA/s1600/2014-11-30+20.09.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEujM2P3yTEHuwiP4V2brChmSmvfYNCs3Xx6Xs7M9Kvf3j5Ie-xTfYY8tNlBEdzzENMGz_ISCJatNXtXHbPXEdOPcTCpvalQAyCdQFRSAMjRShk4oIctFGTS-MWgWEJMdmH8mfSA/s1600/2014-11-30+20.09.35.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My home for the rest of this week</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-27415309075940851642014-11-05T14:34:00.000+01:002014-11-05T14:34:09.131+01:00Had ik maar...<div style="color: #791a3e; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; margin: 0px;">
De achteraffers</div>
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Had ik dat achteraf niet moeten zeggen?</div>
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Had ik dat achteraf niet moeten doen?</div>
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Zo leven wij - de achteraffers.</div>
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Had ik dat moeten verzwijgen - toen?</div>
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Had ik de wasman een fooi moeten geven?</div>
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Had ik dat achteraf nou maar gedaan!</div>
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Had ik met Adriaan moeten gaan leven</div>
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of zou dat misschien ook niet goed zijn gegaan?</div>
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<br /></div>
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Had ik die jas niet liever moet kopen?</div>
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Had ik maar <span style="font-size: 16px;">NIET</span> naar Marie moeten gaan?</div>
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Had ik maar beter gewoon kunnen lopen</div>
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in plaats van zolang op lijn negen te staan?</div>
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<br /></div>
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Had ik die trap liever niet moeten boenen</div>
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en had ik niet uit moeten gaan zonder vest</div>
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en had ik me niet moeten laten zoenen </div>
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door die vervelende kerel uit West?</div>
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<br /></div>
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Wij achteraffers, wat zijn we toch moeilijk</div>
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en - achteraf - voor ons zelf nog het meest.</div>
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Had men ons niet beter op kunnen hangen?</div>
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Was dat achteraf niet het beste geweest?</div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>'Dankzij jou en jullie jubileumboek ben ik nu ingelijfd bij de literatuur, althans dat zegt men algemeen. Ik voel me de bejaarde hoer die plotseling op visite mag bij de streng calvinistische familie. Ze zijn vriendelijk.' </i></div>
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<br /></div>
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Dit aardige, korte en prachtig-venijnige briefje schreef Annie M. G. Schmidt aan uitgever Geert van Oorschot kort na de verschijning in 1985 van de bundel Gedichten, waaraan zij meewerkte. Hij bevatte een keuze uit eigen werk van zes dichteressen die de uitgever de moeite waard vond. De andere vijf waren Elisabeth Eybers, Fritzi Harmsen van Beek, Judith Herzberg, Hanny Michaelis en M. Vasalis. </div>
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Vandaag kreeg ik dit gedicht, wat wel heel toepasselijk is op mij. </div>
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Dit denk ik elke dag, elke week en maakt me kritisch over alles wat ik doe. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Maar vandaag kreeg ik meer nieuws. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Een paar maanden terug besloot ik niet mee te gaan met "mijn" team naar India.</div>
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Het voelde niet goed, niet veilig, niet sterk. Ik was ergens bang voor, ergens zat het niet goed. Succesvol zou het niet worden. </div>
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Tenminste, dat gevoel had ik.</div>
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Vanaf m'n besluit dacht ik bijna elke dag "had ik maar".</div>
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Vandaag kreeg ik bericht. Slecht weer, en zo veel dingen die niet liepen zoals ze hadden kunnen of moeten lopen. </div>
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Het eigenlijke doel was daarom niet gehaald. </div>
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Voor een dagje is de "had ik maar" eventjes verdwenen. </div>
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Soms zijn beslissingen heel moeilijk, maar soms, als je je gevoel volgt, komt het goed. </div>
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-57852873015745927132014-10-23T16:59:00.003+02:002014-10-23T16:59:19.403+02:00Weak week > strong<b>Friday - travel</b><br />
<br />
"No, your car is too big for a normal parking place so you'll have to pay €4,50 instead of €3,00 per day".<br />
Our car is actually smaller and shorter then a modern T5, station or other larger car. It only looks bigger because of the campervan-box on the back.<br />
We refused to pay and drove off again, she told us with a mean voice; "you're not going to find anything cheaper".<br />
We didn't care, she was just being a bitch to us so we didn't want to spent 10x4,50 at her parking-place-business.<br />
The other parking was more expensive even, but the ticket machine was not being a bitch to us so we accepted it.<br />
<br />
Later on the day we survived yet another flight with the Yellow airline from Ireland. We were facing the next challenge: driving a car on the 'wrong' side of the road. Actually. I was doing fine, as an extra drive would cost us ten GBP extra per day. So Dennis was the driver.<br />
Roundabouts the wrong way around, traffic jam, until we were hungry and ended up in a road side restaurant.<br />
A big round building provided place for the big fast-food chains. The yellow M, the King, the Taco and Burrito places and also a chain that was called ChopstiX. We suddenly understood why so many British children are obese.<br />
I decided to go for the Asian food. At the end at the counter I wanted to have a pair of chopsticks. As it would fit the food I thought. The only thing they had were plastic forks. Right...ChopstiX... Dennis chose a cardboard pizza from the D.<br />
<br />
We arrived in New Mills. It wasn't too hard to find Ruth and Andy's place as Andy managed to be on Google Streetview.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZF9AOhSm9fvM_30ifsiu6TyrBMhdButjkpzRMLVQhDVy_-_L_NfPjGxg1aBleRGcovzhhcHd2aqPlFQB-sfjgWXN061ZUHhVQ_-hvmUFmzCWx4egZWRIYNuIuFo3mBLRfn345w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-10-10+at+11.10.27+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZF9AOhSm9fvM_30ifsiu6TyrBMhdButjkpzRMLVQhDVy_-_L_NfPjGxg1aBleRGcovzhhcHd2aqPlFQB-sfjgWXN061ZUHhVQ_-hvmUFmzCWx4egZWRIYNuIuFo3mBLRfn345w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-10-10+at+11.10.27+AM.png" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The house of Ruth and Andy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ruth offered us tea (with milk) and went on with her knitting. She has a small brand called <a href="https://www.facebook.com/scruffydogcreations">'Scruffy Dog</a>'. Making hats and other had knitted things.<br />
You can order any color and style combination you like. Pretty fun!<br />
<br />
<b>Saturday - Thunderdome</b><br />
<br />
When you say Thunderdome I think of the hardcore electronic music scene in the 90's. Drugs, skinheads, Australian, Nike Air...that kind of stuff.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XnuUrQ_j3ZAGMKEmIClUbSnCwvHniQTlTwpdCdJWsVM6D6z2asVoudkBABwpxvVJ8CDZCaev7xH1SfO5frVgvsJQzt7SK-8Aqww9dnfjk7KNNJVR93m6XHD-4Q66waMbAbqj2w/s1600/Thunderdome_logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XnuUrQ_j3ZAGMKEmIClUbSnCwvHniQTlTwpdCdJWsVM6D6z2asVoudkBABwpxvVJ8CDZCaev7xH1SfO5frVgvsJQzt7SK-8Aqww9dnfjk7KNNJVR93m6XHD-4Q66waMbAbqj2w/s1600/Thunderdome_logo.jpg" height="273" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Thunderdome music logo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In Buxton they have a different idea<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devonshire_Royal_Hospital">. The Devonshire dome</a> had become the scene for a unique drytool event.<br />
When I walked in I suddenly remembered; I learned about this building in art-history. It felt like standing in a picture, the picture from my art-history book.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwKYJUrwGYxLGYOCTKIdA4_H9_x3Igp1o-atZ5QhTBXg0yoVM7UcKz5MWNYQIglOv1FaItBh9q3ZGJ5q477_A6xVzah75FLdnB-OsQUaZbPEe0dFT0R3q99GF9XaweN-UH3dkxQ/s1600/DSC_4108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwKYJUrwGYxLGYOCTKIdA4_H9_x3Igp1o-atZ5QhTBXg0yoVM7UcKz5MWNYQIglOv1FaItBh9q3ZGJ5q477_A6xVzah75FLdnB-OsQUaZbPEe0dFT0R3q99GF9XaweN-UH3dkxQ/s1600/DSC_4108.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new Thunderdome</td></tr>
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We thought it would be a good idea to support the event by joining the 'competition'.<br />
Andy and James fabricated a row of square blocks and hung them in the roof of the more then 150 year old dome. Inspired by the show event in Sochi last Winter during the Olympics they'd tired to make a similar structure.<br />
Great thing of the location is that it's not a climbing gym. Suddenly dry tooling was placed out of it's original environment and people who'd never climbed before could get in touch with dry tooling.<br />
I might 'steal' the idea and use it somewhere in the Netherlands next year.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJGpH84mfo8PIGpDJSbu7AdLXbg-OzVbCNx3ivjAZsiL9y0QWbSUclw2SZ0UJDlqnpXkmmBWyqEp5Wf7XjYzj26b1VOQmOTsJLR8sxU-pRY69-GPt99H1KL4sHwJq4Bvp4Oxnufw/s1600/DSC_4106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJGpH84mfo8PIGpDJSbu7AdLXbg-OzVbCNx3ivjAZsiL9y0QWbSUclw2SZ0UJDlqnpXkmmBWyqEp5Wf7XjYzj26b1VOQmOTsJLR8sxU-pRY69-GPt99H1KL4sHwJq4Bvp4Oxnufw/s1600/DSC_4106.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you like bouldering raise your hand</td></tr>
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Andy explained the rules and the practice round was on.<br />
I was nervous. Competition nervous, like I can be but hadn't experienced for a while.<br />
So I wanted to go first, get it over with.<br />
The 3D structure turned to be quite a bit harder then I expected and for my feeling it took forever. When I was pumped I asked Dennis to take in the slack and lower me. I got just half way the blocks...<br />
<br />
The other climbers turned to be not much faster and it took a while before a climber reached my high point. Most sat in the rope a couple times.<br />
<br />
In the afternoon finally everyone had their go. Most impressive go was from the two British para climbers.<a href="http://www.johnchurcherparaclimber.com/"> John Churcher</a> managed to get around the first block! The other para-climber Dave Bowes had not much experience with dry tooling yet but did surprisingly good. He reached the 4th place! I mean 4th place overall, between the other male climbers. Wow!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiosaYHz5E2p-Ol5g0FKt1ATkunlKN77vT8xIWkUMUbJMxMTsW23_1ZqwApOKP3oyGUES7VT02Wz3X5ZI4vMC1WPy1pSHN18jWt1WUsUeF7Mt2zj_qieUSu4gVXn5oa9IAJk3s9gg/s1600/Dave-Bowes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiosaYHz5E2p-Ol5g0FKt1ATkunlKN77vT8xIWkUMUbJMxMTsW23_1ZqwApOKP3oyGUES7VT02Wz3X5ZI4vMC1WPy1pSHN18jWt1WUsUeF7Mt2zj_qieUSu4gVXn5oa9IAJk3s9gg/s1600/Dave-Bowes.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave Bowes, Picture: Anna Wells</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After our second 'qualification' run (5 minutes time to climb) I was drawn as second to climb. Dennis had to climb as frist.<br />
<br />
Dennis decided to climb fast. Long moves and the further he got the harder it was to clip the draws. The slings were maybe a little too short. For every clip you had to make a long move upwards.<br />
At the top blocks Dennis got his axe stuck between the block, foam and the hold. Pumped, trying to pull the axe out he was losing time rapidly. Just a couple more moves before he timed out. Just before the end!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDo3wiYmQVDsQAruNLVzIbthyXrI-FsM7uFwWqaiYU8_Kq7OPfTKlyE-cQv0OHAb7DD0KO_wRsNjMTVOGat5BeA6bJQPE548OG1vVxANdeNR2MnkZdDsacmsaKSRsIhO9smatrYQ/s1600/DSC_4109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDo3wiYmQVDsQAruNLVzIbthyXrI-FsM7uFwWqaiYU8_Kq7OPfTKlyE-cQv0OHAb7DD0KO_wRsNjMTVOGat5BeA6bJQPE548OG1vVxANdeNR2MnkZdDsacmsaKSRsIhO9smatrYQ/s1600/DSC_4109.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dennis at the start of his qualifier</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXh7g2iWlhYL8VuGNZHI7f_9YczakaTHf7Y8sDmP3H3Lowy0_yZHOUse823KAUQz42G8AH6JVlP7QPEZX1c70dj4QxevQ080LlKuzp_yxHhluwl-Ma3ufF3rPmg28nEZSYQ2YMQ/s1600/DSC_4218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXh7g2iWlhYL8VuGNZHI7f_9YczakaTHf7Y8sDmP3H3Lowy0_yZHOUse823KAUQz42G8AH6JVlP7QPEZX1c70dj4QxevQ080LlKuzp_yxHhluwl-Ma3ufF3rPmg28nEZSYQ2YMQ/s1600/DSC_4218.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just over half way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I decided to go slow but steady as I didn't expect anyone to get near anyway. It would be a waste to fall off before the time would run out (8 minutes).<br />
The judges blew the horn, I took a couple breaths, looked at the route, looked up and started my climb. (Later on I understood I wasted my time by looking around at the start, as the time was already running before I stepped in the route...)<br />
In the qualifiers quite some people ripped out of the foam so I decided to swing hard.<br />
Too hard. Every time it took ages to get the axes out of the foam.<br />
Just before the log I asked for the time. The echo made it impossible to understand anything of what was been said below me. I shaked my arms, to wait for the answer, looked up again, shaker again, and again. The guy above me put up three fingers, so I guessed he meant three minutes.<br />
So slowly I moved to the log and took my axe out to make the move out towards the next hold. Suddenly the rope came tight. Time out. Huh? Really? I wasn't even pumped!<br />
Ah well...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9FKPt9ufefvp2GWBvVVDTcb5ozI4uAJsvN6AB6gpzxlEdzmWd41JcYlsLYjNwCnaUubu0qrkfT_yyksr8Ux5i571qG25fUvvvYwElvhz5fBx_79SxUfPTZAyK0bjvhzS3Fc9s8g/s1600/DSC_4230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9FKPt9ufefvp2GWBvVVDTcb5ozI4uAJsvN6AB6gpzxlEdzmWd41JcYlsLYjNwCnaUubu0qrkfT_yyksr8Ux5i571qG25fUvvvYwElvhz5fBx_79SxUfPTZAyK0bjvhzS3Fc9s8g/s1600/DSC_4230.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me in the finals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Slightly disappointed I watched the other climbers.<br />
Suddenly I saw Anna (Wells) still climbing on and even reaching the log! Ow F* I didn't expect that to happen. She tried to reach for the hold, for the foam, didn't manage to swing into the foam. Tried again and...time out.<br />
Wow! That was impressive. She just climbed really well and beat me.<br />
Stupid me!<br />
<br />
Katy had a bad luck day. The girl from the British ice climbing team fell off in the first bit of the route.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQ6rNnv2UEVBaUee2V3Lm73nYuc5GoQSXx5LRjdg9dhSAov80V1r-RCH1Gu1jloqJD4xxEZPPPdXEJNnM4FO_b6lc44h-F038PfoPBnpN01T-GpD7ba88uxbnHnAU-0Y9BloFKQ/s1600/DSC_4223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQ6rNnv2UEVBaUee2V3Lm73nYuc5GoQSXx5LRjdg9dhSAov80V1r-RCH1Gu1jloqJD4xxEZPPPdXEJNnM4FO_b6lc44h-F038PfoPBnpN01T-GpD7ba88uxbnHnAU-0Y9BloFKQ/s1600/DSC_4223.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katy Forrester</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Other male competitor was Tim Emmett.<br />
I admire him for his climbing at Hemken falls. The humongous overhanging ice/mixed lines that he'd put up there are really inspiring. I'd LOVE to go there and climb some for these lines too.<br />
Because I admire him I was a little shy talking too him first. Funny... :)<br />
Anyway, he did really well. Being totally pumped at the top of the blocks we thought he'd fall off way before. But he managed to swing his tool in the last bit of foam (and couldn't get it out anymore).<br />
With just one tool left he managed to clip the last draw and finish the route.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aDYf8qEJe3XptOvKjsUehjCFYhkObaNsgWh8_CXqTIG-XmgbPF5YpMjbk8SJVg0eSZ286ATUlWgvZmJsIW27sQUixZ3B7bP7SV8lcidhxgi75gVlgY0sS1rmaatD6Nsh4jMzTw/s1600/DSC_4270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aDYf8qEJe3XptOvKjsUehjCFYhkObaNsgWh8_CXqTIG-XmgbPF5YpMjbk8SJVg0eSZ286ATUlWgvZmJsIW27sQUixZ3B7bP7SV8lcidhxgi75gVlgY0sS1rmaatD6Nsh4jMzTw/s1600/DSC_4270.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Emmett</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Sunday - Masson Lees I</b><br />
<br />
Still really tired from the climbing on Saturday we went to Masson Lees, a cave in an old quarry not far from the town Matlock.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-fhi9w97uaQ15SXG83Z4fPBQa_P4LoEDZyl-GBzTFC1QTQjcl7IIPYLuA5mRxkqw7hyphenhyphenAnZKTlJ28yWFM_Q2PerEiFkPTijICOsb7m7FYgyjEP9bX3A94piv9Z7UIk44e4o7UOQ/s1600/DSC_4281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-fhi9w97uaQ15SXG83Z4fPBQa_P4LoEDZyl-GBzTFC1QTQjcl7IIPYLuA5mRxkqw7hyphenhyphenAnZKTlJ28yWFM_Q2PerEiFkPTijICOsb7m7FYgyjEP9bX3A94piv9Z7UIk44e4o7UOQ/s1600/DSC_4281.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view down to Matlock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's Andy's home cave.<br />
The area is mainly bolted sports climbing except from the far left corner in the dark. There Andy and other climbers have put up some dry tooling lines. Mostly with drilled pockets as the rock is very unstable and would wear out when you'd only use natural holds. Sportclimbing? Here? No, it's wet, loose and sandy. So perfect for dry tooling.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAT0U-N-tTU3_uClCR6k66OWvi3g0K0CGmpI2D8xEfoqWJWoT-uLCJZo9uP2ZvqHlS-PqafrS690UrK8Mg078CrwUFqhec3V8r2i5qAo4Em-rmLn7RTKSdtzl0pFIh23ILxABPw/s1600/DSC_4323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAT0U-N-tTU3_uClCR6k66OWvi3g0K0CGmpI2D8xEfoqWJWoT-uLCJZo9uP2ZvqHlS-PqafrS690UrK8Mg078CrwUFqhec3V8r2i5qAo4Em-rmLn7RTKSdtzl0pFIh23ILxABPw/s1600/DSC_4323.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 2/3 of the route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Andy called his route "something like M11".<br />
Up to the first chain it's an M10. Not too hard once you know where to find the holds, although the overhang gets met pretty tired every time. But that is just one third of the route.<br />
After having climbed the roof you mantle up to a rest. And then it goes on again with a couple of huge moves. Length is definitely an advantage here. I can just reach the next hold and can just retrieve my other axe out of the stein pull. Nothing for my feet, just this one hold for one axe.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2icl3PMC3RM00j_qcBHh5i0uo5_MK0tjIw6xaO8lofHu6i9V3vgcJq6trNyAJzHn7um0iTXsf7eTEhxDiyT2p4V1b1mp8rV71Etbu8D8XgjeVajIMav7SemgYp7moBg0lHBDhLA/s1600/DSC_4342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2icl3PMC3RM00j_qcBHh5i0uo5_MK0tjIw6xaO8lofHu6i9V3vgcJq6trNyAJzHn7um0iTXsf7eTEhxDiyT2p4V1b1mp8rV71Etbu8D8XgjeVajIMav7SemgYp7moBg0lHBDhLA/s1600/DSC_4342.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good belay from Andy will help you through the start of the route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhNVRxzMFwnUHGJtsIR5gb8UdsE9AXZgpoNImMRa2OuGPG4IVhMsDLQOKNr3dghjZ83NpoGQ76uICPJvdQ7vc8_C21GSTA-9lLh9A_Dxxvz2OHrBqR46BXjEYO2JYfTwNcS_Lzw/s1600/DSC_4317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhNVRxzMFwnUHGJtsIR5gb8UdsE9AXZgpoNImMRa2OuGPG4IVhMsDLQOKNr3dghjZ83NpoGQ76uICPJvdQ7vc8_C21GSTA-9lLh9A_Dxxvz2OHrBqR46BXjEYO2JYfTwNcS_Lzw/s1600/DSC_4317.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long long move</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In a figure of four I read for the next hold, a small hold that you can only hold sideways, crunching your fingers between the rock and the axe. Then a sandy, crumbly lip, and hopefully find a small rest. Then from yet another (natural) stein pull you get into the roof traverse. No footholds, just handholds.<br />
Super utterly tiring, I was biting my teeth into the iceaxe when crossing figure-of-four-to-figure-of-nine.<br />
My hands burned, the skin was on fire and dark red blisters were starting to from under the calluses.<br />
I got close but couldn't do it that day.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvpNFHrER1-4IEqsZpZ4INFcV6kZ2XWaZmFAQfNHpiOBPXMSHrUwWtR7njPJJUbL0_1LMVaMeV8-eeabODcYCvjr0Ux3Hs1eeR58OeB8jVE7bvq4BES0jC2eXkcSJiwVWxH16nGA/s1600/DSC_4354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvpNFHrER1-4IEqsZpZ4INFcV6kZ2XWaZmFAQfNHpiOBPXMSHrUwWtR7njPJJUbL0_1LMVaMeV8-eeabODcYCvjr0Ux3Hs1eeR58OeB8jVE7bvq4BES0jC2eXkcSJiwVWxH16nGA/s1600/DSC_4354.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the final traverse, not even half way the traverse yet...<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Monday - Gritstone</b><br />
<br />
We desperately needed a restday. Rest from the climbing and traveling.<br />
It was raining so we couldn't do much other climbing. It didn't matter too much. We needed the rest.<br />
Still at Andy's place we enjoyed a breakfast, tea, coffee, more tea and headed out to watch Andy and James teaching the first years of the University of Buxton (Derby) their outdoor climbing skills.<br />
Not a bad job I think to teach at an University. Especially when you teach climbing in the outdoors!<br />
Andy complained about how little people actually show interest in the courses. The students pay quite a bit to follow the lessons but a lot of them never show up.<br />
I wish I followed such a program instead of what I'd studied. It would fit me so much better I think.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2muOChC7cGCWBEGOIp5n_UM9QQOB3Sj9pFk6DRhnJ298Gh-OEzHWS5gGu537A1HY_jxyBfKXm7N54-DChZoL46lCa_-r92s3ojQFyUJvDqxU16dwxvxXRcFfgLsKnpPAbHkTOg/s1600/DSC_4364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2muOChC7cGCWBEGOIp5n_UM9QQOB3Sj9pFk6DRhnJ298Gh-OEzHWS5gGu537A1HY_jxyBfKXm7N54-DChZoL46lCa_-r92s3ojQFyUJvDqxU16dwxvxXRcFfgLsKnpPAbHkTOg/s1600/DSC_4364.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Later on the day we drove to the gritstone cliffs of Stanage.<br />
Beautiful scenery, the sheep, the autumn colours, the fog.<br />
Even in the rain the stone still felt really 'grippy'. I was thinking of the route Gaia and could suddenly imagine how you can find enough grip on the holds in that route. Still not easy though.<br />
<br />
<b>Tuesday - Masson Lees II</b><br />
<br />
We said goodbye to Andy and Ruth and their great hospitality.<br />
<br />
We needed a second try at the route. We were pretty sure it's not an M11. Having done quite some other (harder) routes in different areas around the world I was guessing this route is much harder. How much harder? No idea. I'm not that good in the grading-game. Also I prefer to give it a 'stiff' grading.<br />
It reminds me of Raph Slawinsky. He told me "if you can keep a straight face when grading the route and all others also keep a straight face, you know the grade is right." Not sure if Raph is the right person for grading is own routes ;) I mean, who dares to discuss the grading with him?<br />
<br />
I got a go and failed in the start. Completely confused. I was so nervous!<br />
Because I was pretty close on sending it two days ago I really wanted to climb it. Even more to prove that I can climb, that I can do more then making mistakes in competitions.<br />
The pressure I was putting on myself didn't help. It never helps.<br />
Dennis went on, climbed, climbed further and struggled his way through the last moves. Wow!<br />
His sent even put more pressure on me. I had to do it. Now. Not next week, no now.<br />
I climbed. On, passed the crux moves in the middle. Found a good enough rest in the stein pull before the traverse. Moved on and got my rope stuck on the buckle of the harness legloop. The rope somehow really got stuck. Hanging in a figure of four, figure of nine I couldn't retrieve my axe, the rope still tangled in the loop. I panicked and could hardly get it off, turning in a couple figure of fours again. It drained my power and energy. After just two more moves I was biting almost through the axe in my mouth. I needed to go on! But I found myself not being able to hold on any longer. I had to...Another move...Another hold...come on, one more.... I couldn't, my mind was joining in the game and I just could hold on any longer. I had to put my foot on my axe to clip I have no idea why I put my foot there, I didn't want to fall off. Foot on axe...fail...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSS5Edt6zcxQ1ODPP-NNfyNGYXj57RFugA-QEgVqTV360Ig8HojDB-SnC5pHyhHXWYM-m0I2U2eT6WbyQAjhvONnq4ZHBSm6xEKnNZfIKBOGfV0-kOMmzqT0QnLs4Ev1kEzAOZyQ/s1600/DSC_4326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSS5Edt6zcxQ1ODPP-NNfyNGYXj57RFugA-QEgVqTV360Ig8HojDB-SnC5pHyhHXWYM-m0I2U2eT6WbyQAjhvONnq4ZHBSm6xEKnNZfIKBOGfV0-kOMmzqT0QnLs4Ev1kEzAOZyQ/s1600/DSC_4326.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just passed the start of the M10</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I cried coming down from the route. I failed again!<br />
The feeling inside me was crushing any bit of motivation and positive thought. I'm not good enough. I can't do it...<br />
<br />
We decided to stay the night and give it one more go the next morning.<br />
I wasn't sure if that would work, being tired of the warmup, three attempts today, and a rainy night in the little tent would't really help...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01Vb-6w-noToTJ3PJoylxPrFP2yMobYsg9xoS6ux3jQBM1a-oaqQ0fW61t2he2S4GzOi2dLiMfmtDkeNoCTQS-CbZyyCK88S9B1Ae5bkGrvNSAXHVaS8Qk5TW1sFHlsKUDDc8qQ/s1600/DSC_4398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01Vb-6w-noToTJ3PJoylxPrFP2yMobYsg9xoS6ux3jQBM1a-oaqQ0fW61t2he2S4GzOi2dLiMfmtDkeNoCTQS-CbZyyCK88S9B1Ae5bkGrvNSAXHVaS8Qk5TW1sFHlsKUDDc8qQ/s1600/DSC_4398.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inimini-tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We went for dinner, so we didn't have to stay in the rain and ended up in a restaurant that served fish and chips.<br />
Dennis doesn't like fish and chose the chicken instead. The fish and chips was an utter failure. The mashed peas tasted burned, the vinegar was out of date, the sauce tasted like it had been in the fridge for weeks already and as dessert the coffee was even worse. Probably the most horrible coffee I ever drank in a restaurant. It was the kind of coffee you dissolve in water. Way too little coffee in luke-warm water. Dennis couldn't finish it. I took one gulp to finish it.<br />
But aye, at least it was warm and dry in the restaurant.<br />
<br />
<b>Wednesday - The final attempt and The Works</b><br />
<br />
The voice in my head told me this was not really the right thing. But I should at least try the other voice said. Okay.<br />
First try. F*. Just passed the first M10 section I got confused. Fail.<br />
Even more pressure.<br />
We decided to pack the tent and come back for a last try.<br />
I was warmed up, feeling allright. But this attempt did not go very well either. Just passed the second draw in the roof I failed again. Too pumped, too sore, too tired.<br />
<br />
I felt guilty to Andy. He showed us this amazing route and I couldn't even finish it!<br />
<br />
Imagine, Andy pours a very old, 20y+ whisky. Super rare, pure with a unique smell and taste.<br />
You're grateful for sharing the gold and smell it a couple times before taking a very small sip.<br />
But then you end the evening, go to bed and leave to almost untouched glass there in the living room.<br />
The next day the whisky tastes different, by far not as pure.<br />
Next time the route will be different... not as pure.<br />
Sorry Andy, for not drinking the full glass.<br />
At least Dennis drank the whole glass.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeeLBzD33pXZIVWIiqN4Kpbu0TmDDV3Co9uSephfx9sqVodo1I6gBGXnbYTCy6qPKfW1xVnCvYzpej9Q8SI9MW0syFbGce_nZ4c3F_2DqhJLGWCLZz5JUfsm0R8a_0nbSoQi1wWg/s1600/DSC_4530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeeLBzD33pXZIVWIiqN4Kpbu0TmDDV3Co9uSephfx9sqVodo1I6gBGXnbYTCy6qPKfW1xVnCvYzpej9Q8SI9MW0syFbGce_nZ4c3F_2DqhJLGWCLZz5JUfsm0R8a_0nbSoQi1wWg/s1600/DSC_4530.JPG" height="61" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the Works dry tooling area</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We drove up to the Lake District.<br />
The closer we got the smaller the roads until we could see the famous lakes. The small cottages, windy roads, hedges, rocky and hilly grasslands were beautiful.<br />
We missed the turn to Hodge Close, turned back and weren't sure if this was actually the right road still.<br />
At the end of the road we found the parking Andy explained us. And we found the path to the cave.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4AhYIv3N7G8QqgediZ4-qQZNrFmsv7Zb0JCt4ejKDVreUzUkmCDjz0xNIxKHrUt6VyxpHYQW4shl3nvYTE2qCFXmmMzKo8vVaf69qI8b6EHVV-wtn7Q-nMgmfdRn1IFKqVd-HVA/s1600/DSC_4412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4AhYIv3N7G8QqgediZ4-qQZNrFmsv7Zb0JCt4ejKDVreUzUkmCDjz0xNIxKHrUt6VyxpHYQW4shl3nvYTE2qCFXmmMzKo8vVaf69qI8b6EHVV-wtn7Q-nMgmfdRn1IFKqVd-HVA/s1600/DSC_4412.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3J8-KJkpld5o3nrgifVmBnLbcth1Oy06CyMutaXERCFxFXLVH6_SRdsxaGSsSYU4_Tkhx3EF8goHi92LKhxfiYymmUWFO_kk0-FQki6AhEeLQpz3s1UVXZ_xtRvVXCidX6lVXw/s1600/DSC_4418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3J8-KJkpld5o3nrgifVmBnLbcth1Oy06CyMutaXERCFxFXLVH6_SRdsxaGSsSYU4_Tkhx3EF8goHi92LKhxfiYymmUWFO_kk0-FQki6AhEeLQpz3s1UVXZ_xtRvVXCidX6lVXw/s1600/DSC_4418.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No comment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
At the start of the cave we found a laminated paper, telling us about some kind of drytooling-research. Strange.<br />
We heard the inside story about the bolts and were reminded of all the strange ethics again.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5sRrOP7RYUbYOMkpq-HVxdHtq-RgcJOb8_JVO3cRpWbq3NlbJfH-Kws-pCXuDM3Gikb9faESd5C-EoxYr7KV3Dw92LgJSlrYh1MUwrpFh085t3zaGI8ADhTAf4kad1ERWQWALXQ/s1600/DSC_4420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5sRrOP7RYUbYOMkpq-HVxdHtq-RgcJOb8_JVO3cRpWbq3NlbJfH-Kws-pCXuDM3Gikb9faESd5C-EoxYr7KV3Dw92LgJSlrYh1MUwrpFh085t3zaGI8ADhTAf4kad1ERWQWALXQ/s1600/DSC_4420.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
The cave was big. And the routes even bigger.<br />
We walked all the way to the back of the cave and found Andy's huge project. The route seemed to be going on forever! It would get you beyond pumped.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxDGWefFuP-ii-wxfEAGiN5rCqLl6EBJZcyTxYTPFRYTOFMlQmtZdYlYVf9Qeo5kJCTyE6BNVlGBt7kow2RFLvNFPRF-VVlwib6WgNX54Ce7_n0WfuEUx4bCgDdYU6hl5k6u0Cpw/s1600/DSC_4423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxDGWefFuP-ii-wxfEAGiN5rCqLl6EBJZcyTxYTPFRYTOFMlQmtZdYlYVf9Qeo5kJCTyE6BNVlGBt7kow2RFLvNFPRF-VVlwib6WgNX54Ce7_n0WfuEUx4bCgDdYU6hl5k6u0Cpw/s1600/DSC_4423.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huge cave!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We came for the other route, the one that starts in the middle of the cave, also a route by Andy. It's called 'Guardian of the Underworld'. Quite a fitting name for such a cave and such a route.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHS3CweBHccyNCb4OlTifpTOMuDcZoHE5a064i1j0D0zHNbeO2bX_jYhUJk7aO8czQmoSjaoiZ5n_iOX48U46_r0czwsZmknmW-WnfpZuHMDYCvnxyCZ0UMhAznFP0B1d1PEw_A/s1600/DSC_4432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHS3CweBHccyNCb4OlTifpTOMuDcZoHE5a064i1j0D0zHNbeO2bX_jYhUJk7aO8czQmoSjaoiZ5n_iOX48U46_r0czwsZmknmW-WnfpZuHMDYCvnxyCZ0UMhAznFP0B1d1PEw_A/s1600/DSC_4432.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half way in the Guardian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkFgFJ3FwRCqOFYY4Z1mhT2pkws0zaX726ETI-bS-f_xIYPP8qYoGtk4rQeYvwbt2fUhGXcH4nlZvvhNNAZLrB1mIUopddC5LwASP3xKHaitBahrpakRC5Ph7hi_JYwGQI-x8vw/s1600/DSC_4470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkFgFJ3FwRCqOFYY4Z1mhT2pkws0zaX726ETI-bS-f_xIYPP8qYoGtk4rQeYvwbt2fUhGXcH4nlZvvhNNAZLrB1mIUopddC5LwASP3xKHaitBahrpakRC5Ph7hi_JYwGQI-x8vw/s1600/DSC_4470.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before the top in the Guardian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After one attempt we decided to look for the other cave that hosts Greg's 'Power Dab'. That cave was a little hard to find. We decided it would be cool to give it an insight attempt as all the holds were visible from below.<br />
The thing is called Power Dab as you might touch the ground when you fall. Nothing different to our home cave, actually, we didn't find it that bad. It looked safer then some routes in Starzlachklamm.<br />
<br />
When climbing back in the big cave we got lost on the way of the Guardian. For the first go it was hard to find the right holds and placements. And before we knew it the light turned to full pitch black darkness.<br />
The headlamp was still working, but the gentle light outside had turned into full rain and darkness.<br />
It was late and we should give it a rest.<br />
Dennis decided to give it one more go, but got lost again somewhere passed the foot-rest. Almost though...almost...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4b8Y8xXNMTaht2ikA1i47ZtQaIqe-piQhzpC095UpkVltQmyGh8r6lSMCGgFfObl5nR_R0C_eNJRJpwKa2Nu8JBpmOIX4Q4pMW2NJbu3N_V8fCfS57BMEy7_-NaS7QSeSKvjGZQ/s1600/DSC_4475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4b8Y8xXNMTaht2ikA1i47ZtQaIqe-piQhzpC095UpkVltQmyGh8r6lSMCGgFfObl5nR_R0C_eNJRJpwKa2Nu8JBpmOIX4Q4pMW2NJbu3N_V8fCfS57BMEy7_-NaS7QSeSKvjGZQ/s1600/DSC_4475.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing by night...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Thursday - Early Work</b><br />
<br />
We woke up far before the light decided to wake up.<br />
With your headlamp on we walked to the cave. Tired and not really ready but still wanted to at least give it a try.<br />
Dennis went for it and got stuck at the big move. The whole route seemed fine until this move.<br />
The move is huge, even for Dennis with his long arms.<br />
No onsight...<br />
My turn, ay well...I tried, but that move...is just really, really long...When I finally had it I couldn't get my other axe out of the hold again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrKYy8jjr_L0UKus6qhZQcMUBxfosmnC5pCxZeyo1p5UW_-QyZwv8EOVG1FqCQLN5o8aCntAXIybEa45bkAtl0eYvR8G5DtTadX2_JDoGPG566-uNlCuDaAxHLLoOFVSK1CIc4Q/s1600/DSC_4500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrKYy8jjr_L0UKus6qhZQcMUBxfosmnC5pCxZeyo1p5UW_-QyZwv8EOVG1FqCQLN5o8aCntAXIybEa45bkAtl0eYvR8G5DtTadX2_JDoGPG566-uNlCuDaAxHLLoOFVSK1CIc4Q/s1600/DSC_4500.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looks light but its actually just the camera trying to adjust the background...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We tried again but ran out of time. We had to be in the car to catch the ferry to the Isle of Wight later that day. (On the far other side of the UK)<br />
<br />
Dennis was invited for the White Cliffs event. Ten ice climbing athletes from all over the world were invited to take part in the event organized by Red Bull.<br />
<br />
That evening we met the whole crew and climbers. It started good, you had to drink a whole beer in once to get to know your starting number.<br />
Cheers.<br />
<br />
<b>Friday - Practice work I</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1zklhO1-r-WoFwZYLm5GY_-MqRqDp93jS7QTsfo_tw3RE0K8JBGDNo7Vs67Jcd_JOisgToBwJ-KHkxS1Z8jUPF0dYl2Uke5U52772Di7NJEbOJH9MfSGjKhITLl-JyQkfxoz0w/s1600/DSC_4675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1zklhO1-r-WoFwZYLm5GY_-MqRqDp93jS7QTsfo_tw3RE0K8JBGDNo7Vs67Jcd_JOisgToBwJ-KHkxS1Z8jUPF0dYl2Uke5U52772Di7NJEbOJH9MfSGjKhITLl-JyQkfxoz0w/s1600/DSC_4675.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hello there huge cliff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The ten were invited to try the first of two routes that Scott and his team established on the big wall.<br />
Not just a route. 100 meters of climbing!<br />
The chalk cliff was longer then they all thought. Without any proper holds it took everyone almost an hour to get up. Swing, swing, swing again, then all would break out and you'd have to swing your axe in again and again.<br />
It was a long day and luckily I also got a half try.<br />
I got lowered to halfway and climbed my way up, trying to make te holds as big as possible for the dudes.<br />
I unfortunately couldn't get a go yet on the second route.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWe8rOCxwAHrUoZikcQKhJluPQhxOlTHlRtGL8TsweYkqrSiTMiszmFtyk7oU2JpW8bCSWtlJSuHqHqsY0lqivr6ljgdrJ3CD2MRRTO4Z7r6YAoG60v_WKJQOhNI5YKwzNROxnAQ/s1600/DSC_4573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWe8rOCxwAHrUoZikcQKhJluPQhxOlTHlRtGL8TsweYkqrSiTMiszmFtyk7oU2JpW8bCSWtlJSuHqHqsY0lqivr6ljgdrJ3CD2MRRTO4Z7r6YAoG60v_WKJQOhNI5YKwzNROxnAQ/s1600/DSC_4573.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dennis on his way up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Saturday - Practice work II</b><br />
<br />
I guess Gordon was too afraid having to climb two routes. He asked if they could just do one finals and only on the second, overhanging route.<br />
No-one seemed to see the problem but didn't care too much either. So route 2 became the big finale.<br />
<br />
The group was split in two and Dennis was invited to a boat trip in the morning.<br />
With a 8-10 person rib we went onto the wild sea.<br />
The waves were big and reminded me of the days that I was still into windsurfing. I felt the energy again, jumping over these big waves.<br />
I should get into that again when I live in the Netherlands again. My brother sent me a picture of what he'd been up to this week. Same waves, other side of the lake.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiJFnZN2F7J0gWiHNz8-uNSOE7r-M4lz-e2t8W4A7ZhoEga-bq2oPvjH6ZHbbDOzopszHugrCacbl_eVS3Fb5x5YtF8tq6xQf1oxe_I6Lti5TuQmBZpQQ3XmgRV67cX9FuI4rRw/s1600/DSC_4636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiJFnZN2F7J0gWiHNz8-uNSOE7r-M4lz-e2t8W4A7ZhoEga-bq2oPvjH6ZHbbDOzopszHugrCacbl_eVS3Fb5x5YtF8tq6xQf1oxe_I6Lti5TuQmBZpQQ3XmgRV67cX9FuI4rRw/s1600/DSC_4636.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Li, la, boat :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The waves, wind and tides actually caused quite some trouble for the team. The original idea was to get the climbers onto the beach by boat and then have them start from the bottom.<br />
Just before the event started the sea decided it had a different plan. They'd never seen the sea this high and the wide beach turned into a small strip of sand with the waves touching the cliffs.<br />
All the equipment that had been placed on the beach was impossible to reach (or had disappeared into the sea already).<br />
<br />
Today the team was going to train on the overhanging route. They could make more speed and the holds looked better.<br />
The routes was more them 100 meters long and so overhanging that it had to be protected with warthogs.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEics-3dJR0wl0W1YOoLMbPi2mnYPTCarWra7X-VACJI7oq-MHKxAGl3QOu9x31fpu8el9B31s5I5I7d0JZv-6EF4IulJOCuuGUGaRTG7u857UIZB4bz4sG85_BoqUXEQowoKWEH6w/s1600/DSC_4712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEics-3dJR0wl0W1YOoLMbPi2mnYPTCarWra7X-VACJI7oq-MHKxAGl3QOu9x31fpu8el9B31s5I5I7d0JZv-6EF4IulJOCuuGUGaRTG7u857UIZB4bz4sG85_BoqUXEQowoKWEH6w/s1600/DSC_4712.JPG" height="61" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott being fully in control</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On the top of the cliff Sandy hand his team were in charge of the safety.<br />
They used industrial techniques and a double rope system to lower and belay the climbers.<br />
On toprope. Yes.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FgR0vrVIa3leNf9YW55Q0u5z5DIylE6VgpPjzv83LUolvPEcF07xGoaRVyHTFb3m3Ur7jj87rxMenHcrxbe49vptRsLYmrilfoU7HXeqaeWic4gc8FoGXZMTQDUObZBwfUdPxw/s1600/DSC_4687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FgR0vrVIa3leNf9YW55Q0u5z5DIylE6VgpPjzv83LUolvPEcF07xGoaRVyHTFb3m3Ur7jj87rxMenHcrxbe49vptRsLYmrilfoU7HXeqaeWic4gc8FoGXZMTQDUObZBwfUdPxw/s1600/DSC_4687.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The riggers doing hard work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It is impossible to hold a safe competition on lead on single ropes on this cliff.<br />
The rock is not just chalk but has layers of flint (fire stone) every 20cm. This stone is so sharp you easily cut a rope. For the same reason it is impossible to climb this rock with just your hands.<br />
Some people who weren't there complained that it's just toprope ("toprope is lame") but as always "de beste stuurlui staan aan wal". The best skipper stands on the shore, we say in Dutch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWGt7RXCSIB6Ui7vQcgVclAK3mPTepwy5B4kqzqj74u_VAN2brvJfQGp1eQExTo41gd1DOdcZE-ll38bEMK_4tY-feXkjmxT0Pl22U-IeassMzHW3h4kkzkj_CDSeJxqXlToZ0Q/s1600/DSC_4709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWGt7RXCSIB6Ui7vQcgVclAK3mPTepwy5B4kqzqj74u_VAN2brvJfQGp1eQExTo41gd1DOdcZE-ll38bEMK_4tY-feXkjmxT0Pl22U-IeassMzHW3h4kkzkj_CDSeJxqXlToZ0Q/s1600/DSC_4709.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It might be possible to lead the wall, but not as competition. I don't want to die.<br />
<br />
The chalk climbing is actually quite old and has an interesting history.<br />
Most well know is maybe the movie <a href="http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/mad-climb---the-great-white-fright-%7C-hardxs-from-slackjaw-film-ep-2/260502?header_b=1">'The great white fright'</a> where Ian Parnell and Chris Cubitt climb a big cliff close to Dover. But far before this climbing movie people were already climbing the cliffs (with ice axes). The first crampons were not just tested on ice but also on these cliffs!<br />
<br />
Other argument I heard was that it damages the cliffs.<br />
Yes it does.<br />
Does that actually matter?<br />
The cliffs naturally wear out too and often even faster naturally then when ten ice climbers swing their tools. There are no rare plants, historical objects, dinosaurs you're taking off.<br />
Why not try to climb it?<br />
If you don't like this you better stop using your car, never use plastic, stop eating meat and don't flush your toilet anymore. That all has significantly more impact then ten ice climbers on a cliff.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidxDrXUEAr8vwrTt6yvQ3Bcyj8uSOLLXYUC5DmVQwG2yr-MDdMz9QlPJXVgnMqrba9xAsAd-zGEkN0rTcbH0bNR3XJmq87oXjxnNKN8IB2N6twB2sriazVj9KQDbIC2vF9yoIXaA/s1600/DSC_4660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidxDrXUEAr8vwrTt6yvQ3Bcyj8uSOLLXYUC5DmVQwG2yr-MDdMz9QlPJXVgnMqrba9xAsAd-zGEkN0rTcbH0bNR3XJmq87oXjxnNKN8IB2N6twB2sriazVj9KQDbIC2vF9yoIXaA/s1600/DSC_4660.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cream tea when viewing the cliff with binoculars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Sunday - Finals</b><br />
<br />
So were where we. Yes, per-finals day.<br />
<br />
All climbers were invited to join the finals. The numbers drawn during the beer drinking game were the starting numbers.<br />
<br />
Will Mayo was to climb first and set the bar high. Just over 21 minutes it took him to climb the route.<br />
Second to climb was Alexey Tomilov. He crushed the time and set a new high with 16 minutes. Wow!<br />
Yeves Heuberger from Swiss wasn't feeling too well and got cute nervous. Unfortunately he fell in the middle of the wall, officially disqualified now he still managed to set a reasonable time with 31 minutes.<br />
Dennis turn. Still pumped from all the climbing we did this week he thought it would be smart to start slow and see how it would go.<br />
He was lowered and I listened in the radio. 1, 2, 3, touchdown! He stood on the beach. No one around him and the only way out was up.<br />
He started slow, as he said. The second rope hung in a big loop below him. He talked into his radio but the belayers didn't seem to understand him in the fierce wind.<br />
After quite some meters they fixed the rope and both ropes were pulled up evenly.<br />
Dennis still climbed slow sometimes matching on his axes. Matching is a tricky move as then there's no back up axe to stop you from falling when a hold would brake.<br />
<br />
Finally he got up. Tired, pumped, very pumped with 26 minutes of climbing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7qzvi0anqRotEcA1qh9z3ylISOY9MzBa7WP0lPXivSfAmttmCnYbJBdon8H0Fw8oaL98ZxraHmu-JWu57-ZU3oIfi5obubNpL70v58AcBBqDIWVEyyyFD8OGTZiDRh3_3_eqbw/s1600/DSC_4723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7qzvi0anqRotEcA1qh9z3ylISOY9MzBa7WP0lPXivSfAmttmCnYbJBdon8H0Fw8oaL98ZxraHmu-JWu57-ZU3oIfi5obubNpL70v58AcBBqDIWVEyyyFD8OGTZiDRh3_3_eqbw/s1600/DSC_4723.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pumped and tired</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For long he could hold his third place until Calum and Jeff went passed him setting new and fast times (23 and 19 minutes).<br />
<br />
Eventually he had to take enough with a 6th place. Not bad though :)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQ30y7aZa7ccpeeJ83OlCDWbvLFhE7rwBwGYFLW40RdR35eLGxofnfjLuW3qTYAhI8Dk0aIaVGtSh0YAA4hvdrPqUN8yqTDLPfRoHLEpflsQLWTe8z9qvms4XaAFYF2jZkJYKpg/s1600/DSC_4738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQ30y7aZa7ccpeeJ83OlCDWbvLFhE7rwBwGYFLW40RdR35eLGxofnfjLuW3qTYAhI8Dk0aIaVGtSh0YAA4hvdrPqUN8yqTDLPfRoHLEpflsQLWTe8z9qvms4XaAFYF2jZkJYKpg/s1600/DSC_4738.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Price giving</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf8lfTQAQXQzuEHMR1yZEEeO8LPilBz6HRP7ZLp30mF06gMnnxqOEQfVdjoKSfjBVJW8eKul30BZXcY6WAY-XD7RtL4U8fkN5IkbogWZ0BzI353OZZGOhvpgYPn22BEELa_kn2g/s1600/DSC_4741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf8lfTQAQXQzuEHMR1yZEEeO8LPilBz6HRP7ZLp30mF06gMnnxqOEQfVdjoKSfjBVJW8eKul30BZXcY6WAY-XD7RtL4U8fkN5IkbogWZ0BzI353OZZGOhvpgYPn22BEELa_kn2g/s1600/DSC_4741.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
That evening it was time to party. With Jeff as barman, Will drinking whisky (#whereswillmayo) and a show off on pull-ups, one armers (Kurt Albert style) and forever planking it was a thing to remember. But hey; what happens at the Red Bull party...stays at the Red Bull party ;)<br />
<br />
<b>Monday - Travel</b><br />
<br />
Time to go home again, sit inside the office. Dream about climbing and hopefully train some.<br />
At least we know what we have to do: train harder!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Once again I really want to thank the team of Red Bull UK (Jamie, Becky) the chalk-pro Scott Muir, the safety team of Sandy Allen and all the other contributors (National Trust, Isle of Wight, Albion Hotel, the restaurants...)<br />
<br />
Other reports:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.dennisvanhoek.nl/">Dennis van Hoek</a><br />
<a href="http://www.myoutdoors.co.uk/2014-03-05-16-39-02/peak-district-news/410-andy-turner-interview-as-dry-tooling-set-for-buxton-exhibition">Andy Turner on MyOutdoors</a><br />
<a href="http://www.myoutdoors.co.uk/2014-03-05-16-39-02/peak-district-news/446-buxton-presents-world-cup-credentials-with-spectacular-dry-tooling-competition">Anna Wells on My Outdoors</a><br />
<a href="http://jeffmercier.blogspot.de/2014/10/red-bull-white-cliffs.html?spref=fb">Jeff Mercier</a><br />
<a href="http://www.muskettmountaineering.co.uk/2014/10/red-bull-white-cliffs/">Calum Muskett</a><br />
<br />
And video:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.dailymotion.com/embed/video/x28d17v" width="480"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x28d17v_red-bull-white-isle-of-wight_sport" target="_blank">Red Bull White Isle Of Wight</a> <i>by <a href="http://www.dailymotion.com/Riders-Match" target="_blank">Riders-Match</a></i>:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-34240166046514640562014-09-30T14:15:00.000+02:002014-09-30T14:15:04.412+02:00Tompoes<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5cmDQrkBmOz-Ywl3u8O9qLa9oAeWG57ky0YPY_y7d9WZerI9WkU99RR64IXwF5XsuLlUVd9QAnjHUWnVzMbjIPzNq_H0o7jza3joVV2Fu-QcpAINowT178fqBOFmfGYpK8meOA/s1600/DSC_3988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5cmDQrkBmOz-Ywl3u8O9qLa9oAeWG57ky0YPY_y7d9WZerI9WkU99RR64IXwF5XsuLlUVd9QAnjHUWnVzMbjIPzNq_H0o7jza3joVV2Fu-QcpAINowT178fqBOFmfGYpK8meOA/s1600/DSC_3988.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Tompoes of today</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I like to bake.<br />
<div>
And I like it way too much. </div>
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I'd probably really skinny if I'd skip the baking hobby. </div>
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And today, restday, we (Dennis and I) made Tompoes. </div>
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Dennis told me he'd once a week go to the <a href="http://www.hema.nl/winkel/eten-en-drinken/gebak/tompouces">HEMA</a> with his pocket money (the money he got from his mum to buy school-milk every day) to buy a Tompoes. </div>
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tompouce">Tompoes</a> means Tom-cat it is, literary translated. A known comic character, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Puss">Tom Puss</a> (Tom Poes in Dutch) is even named after the pastry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMmKPTShuliOKvTsh_e2KG4jb-1BMq2Fi1HcSE5HI3z7XtwRhLbObOOq8bRwQD7h60NOsS1R2OklvCesxAefZdPj7_APR_ySjWEkkyhgEJOn14b0dae7FkhG65tYGVYhRvvyZNQ/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-09-30+at+14.09.36.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMmKPTShuliOKvTsh_e2KG4jb-1BMq2Fi1HcSE5HI3z7XtwRhLbObOOq8bRwQD7h60NOsS1R2OklvCesxAefZdPj7_APR_ySjWEkkyhgEJOn14b0dae7FkhG65tYGVYhRvvyZNQ/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-09-30+at+14.09.36.png" height="320" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom Poes and Heer Bommel</td></tr>
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The pastry looks a little like the French <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mille-feuille">mille-feulle</a> but is far tastier to my opinion. </div>
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They say the Tompoes has been made first by a bakery/patisserie in Amsterdam. The baker was inspired by the figure of General Tom Thumb. </div>
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A little man (Charles Sherwoon Stratton) was one of the big attractions from the American circus of Phineas Taylor Barnum. In 1844 and 1845 the circus traveled through the Netherlands. A couple years later a Frysian little man traveled around as well, inspired by Charles. The little man called himself 'Admiraal Tom Pouce' > General Tom Thumb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertisement of General Tom Pouce on tour</td></tr>
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Both Tom Thumb and Tom Pouce refer to the same<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Thumb"> fairytale figure</a>. </div>
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The French version mille-feulle is also called a 'Napoleon' after the rather small postured French emperror. Both Tompoes and mille-feulle probably have the same history but as far as I know it's not really known which pastery was first. </div>
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In my grandmothers recipe book I couldn't find the recipe but how to make every separate part was still in there. And it's not too difficult. Even Dennis can make it ;)</div>
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So here the recipe. And for the ones who speak Dutch/Flemmish here a good little video on how to make it: </div>
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http://www.een.be/programmas/dagelijkse-kost/recepten/tompoes<br />
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<b>Ingredients</b><br />
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<i>Pudding</i><br />
<i>- 1 L milk</i><br />
<i>- 1 or 2 egg yokes > keep the egg-whites to make 6-8 meringues later on (125g powder sugar, egg-whites, stir till stiff, bake on 125 C for one hour)</i><br />
<i>- 180 g sugar</i><br />
<i>- 40 g Maizena (corn starch)</i><br />
<i>- 30 g flour</i><br />
<i>- or 60 g of custard instead of the Maizena and flour</i><br />
<i>- bit of vanilla, vanilla essence or vanilla sugar </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Dough</i><br />
<i>- 1 sheet of puff pastry (French pastry) (you can buy this in the supermarket, often frozen)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Icing</i><br />
<i>- 150 g powder sugar</i><br />
<i>- 12 ml milk (tablespoon)</i><br />
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The whole process takes at about 70 minutes.<br />
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<b>1. Pudding.</b><br />
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Slowly heat up the milk just before boiling point. Add the vanilla to the milk.<br />
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Stir the other ingredients for the pudding in a kitchen-aid. I just did it by hand, but a kitchen-aid is faster.<br />
Start with mixing the egg-yokes. Add the sugar and make a fluffy dough out of it. Now add the Maizena and flour.<br />
Add a little of the warm vanilla-milk to the mixture and blend well.<br />
Pour the mixture to the rest of the warm milk and stir continuously. Heat the mixture slowly but don't let it boil. When the first air bubbles pop up the mixture should be firm enough.<br />
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Put the mixture in a plastic bag and totally close the bag air tight (this will be your pastry-bag later on). Closing the bag avoids the mixture getting a 'skin' (sheet).<br />
Put the bag in the fridge to let it cool.<br />
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<b>2. Dough.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Roll out the puff-pastry and cut the dough in two. Bake the dough on a plate on 170C (use baking paper). To avoid the dough to raise and bubble up put a scale on top of the dough. The baking takes at about 30 minutes depending on your oven.<br />
After baking you can cut the pastry in small blocks, rectangles or whatever you like.<br />
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<b>3. Icing</b><br />
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Stir the sugar and milk to a thick shiny mixture.<br />
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<b>4. Tompoes</b><br />
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Cut a 1cm corner off one of the corners of the plastic-bag. Now you can squeeze the pudding onto the bottom layer of the pastry-squares (or whatever shape you made them). Squeeze at about 2-3cm thick layers onto the pastry.<br />
Put the other dough layer on top of the pudding and spread out the icing on top.<br />
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On Kings-day and when the national soccer team plays many bakeries sell the Tompoes with an orange coloured icing (orange is the Dutch national colour, in case you didn't knew...)<br />
But most of the times the icing is made pink.<br />
You can use berry juice instead of milk (like strawberry) to make the icing pink.<br />
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<i>*Pink, yet another Dutch word...*</i><br />
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The pastry is often served during tea/coffee times after midday.<br />
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Eet smakelijk :)</div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-25908697832081120662014-09-20T09:44:00.005+02:002014-09-20T09:46:36.939+02:00Golfje <i>About how rich you can feel and loose it all in just a couple hours.</i><br />
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Golfje is one of the most precious things I own.<br />
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I just made a last ride. Windows fully open, listening to the sound of the small 1.6 Diesel engine. One-on-twentyfive and when I'd go slow one-on-twentyeight. More efficient then most of the modern cars, less pollution as no new car has been made to replace Golfje.<br />
Giving a little more gas, taking the corners, my hair flying in the wind. Just going nowhere with a smile on my face, because I'm driving Golfje.<br />
Golfje...<br />
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Athough I try to have as less as possible, Golfje is one of the things I liked to keep.<br />
Until January 2014.<br />
In the Netherlands the economy changed. And thus taxes changed.<br />
With the excuse to stimulate people to buy new cars and to have less pollution the government decided that all cars younger then 40 years have to pay full taxes. Suddenly my 1981 VW Golf mk1 is not an oldtimer anymore.<br />
In the case of Golfje that is over €800,- taxes annually. And suddenly also the insurance went up to €37 per month.<br />
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Golfje suddenly became the most expensive thing I owned.<br />
Just over a year ago Golfje was worth over €1000,-<br />
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Today I sold Golfje. For €500,-<br />
That hurt. A lot.<br />
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Just before Golfje will drive to Belgium with his new owner.</div>
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<a href="http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/w65/Interesting">I really wanted to make the car into a perfect daily. </a>Fresh paint, perfect engine, and keep the cool look of the BBS rims.<br />
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Hopefully the new owner keeps his promise and make Golfje into the car that it deserves to be. At least he seemed friendly and even brought an authentic Belgian pie called 'vlaai' :)<br />
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Later on the day I paid the taxes on my salary for the last quarter. More then €600 disappeared off my account to the Dutch tax services.<br />
<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-12983538359903292512014-08-29T11:43:00.004+02:002014-08-29T11:54:33.969+02:00Tegen de stroom in<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
Dag 1. </div>
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Nog druppend van de regen lig ik te weken in bad. Ogen dicht, moe van de dag. Het was de eerste dag, nog een makkelijke dag. Maar 160km gefietst. 26,7km per uur gemiddeld. Best oke voor de tweede keer op m'n nieuwe fiets. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready</td></tr>
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Bijna een jaar geleden raakte ik m'n geliefde fiets kwijt. Er stond bijna niks meer in huis. M'n fiets, wat dozen, een paar jassen en in de schuur stond de slede (kar) die ik rond Nederland zou gaan trekken voor Expeditie Geluk. </div>
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De ochtend voordat Expeditie Geluk zou beginnen werd ik wakker en was ik opeens dat alles kwijt. M'n veel te dure fiets. De nog duurdere slede, harde schijven met foto's en zelfs een donsjas was er meegenomen! Bizar. Wie doet nou zo iets?! Ik vind het nog eng als ik terug denk aan hoe ik daar ook sliep die nacht toen er ingebroken werd. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Net onderweg. In Nederland waar de fietspaden perfect zijn...</td></tr>
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Nu, een jaar later een nieuwe fiets. En die moet naar m'n 'nieuwe' huis. In Kleinweiler, Zuid-Duitsland. Vanuit Nederland. </div>
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De meest logische optie: stuur 'm op. Optie twee, neem 'm mee met de auto of de trein. Of het vliegtuig. </div>
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Nee, dat is allemaal veel te makkelijk. En ik kies nou eenmaal nooit de makkelijkste weg. </div>
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Dus fiets ik de fiets terug naar Kleinweiler. Ruim 800km van Nederland naar het eindje van Duitsland. </div>
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Langs de Rijn tegen de stroom in fiets ik m'n zorgvuldig geplande route. En vandaag, dag één ben ik aangekomen in Düsseldorf. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Langs de Rijn</td></tr>
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Niet de makkelijkste route. En een metafoor voor hoe ik mijn routes kies qua werk, klimmen, keuzes... </div>
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Deze week is meteen een stukje van de nieuwe weg die we ingaan. De Tischer die Dennis gekocht heeft, niet verder met Alpine Mentors, de keuze om weer terug te gaan maar Nederland, en elke keer snap ik weer beter welke weg ik nou wil kiezen. Die moeilijke tegen de stroom in.</div>
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Nog 3 dagen te gaan en ik ben benieuwd of ik het kan. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De nieuwe bus</td></tr>
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Dag 2.</div>
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Dinsdag. Ooh, nog maar 70, nog maar 60... </div>
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In Koblenz drink ik een koffie en eet ik een stuk appeltaart. Energie. Dat heb ik nodig. </div>
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M'n muziek is uitgevallen en het regent nog steeds. Alles is nat. M'n trui, m'n bh... Alles. In de WC van het restaurant trek ik m'n trui uit, boven de wasbak knijp ik 'm uit. Met m'n broek en m'n sokken doe ik hetzelfde.</div>
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Warme Küche, Zimmer mit Dusch u WC verandert langzaam in 'Warme Dusch und WC' wanneer ik het elke keer zie. Ik kan niet wachten tot ik er ben. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Een van de twee momenten toen het droog was...voor tien minuten...</td></tr>
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Denkend aan India rij ik af op een enorme groep mensen. Moet ik echt niet naar India gaan? En zo stoppen met Alpine Mentors? Ik voel me zo schuldig naar Steve! Langzaam lopen ze de boot af het fietspad op. Ik moet stoppen met fietsen. De eerste loopt tegen m'n fiets op. De tweede duwt me opzij. Druk pratend in een taal die ik niet versta loopt de enorme groep verder. Ik zit er tussen en kan nergens heen. De vrouwen hebben kleurrijke jurken aan. Het lijken wel... mensen uit India! </div>
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Veel later, nog steeds in de regen, denk ik terug aan de enorme groep mensen bij de boot. Ik rij over de stoep door een winkelstraat. Ik moet remmen, afstappen, van de stoep af, om het winkeltje heen. Ondanks de regen staat alles buiten uitgestald. Uit het winkeltje komen geuren van wierook en curry. En buiten staan verschillende grote Boeddha beelden.</div>
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Toeval bestaat niet.</div>
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Eindelijk. 199km verder volgens de gps. Ik ben er. Alleen op dinsdag is het hotel eigenlijk dicht. Pannenkoeken restaurant en hotel staat er op de gevel. Ik was al aan het verzinnen welke pannenkoeken ik zou willen hebben... Maar alles is dicht... Uiteindelijk komt er wel iemand, m'n kamer is nog vrij en ontbijt kan vanaf acht uur. Eerder niet..</div>
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Dag 3. </div>
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En morgen is de laatste dag.</div>
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Of ik het kan. In vier dagen? Nee, misschien wel niet... In vijf? Ja, makkelijk. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRU8907c1evF6lN_Aw1_xV_dtRYw-aXqXd6l0HjwV94LdlFHSm6qJJks-M1c4arJGQabLA_EK85kPtHXZu7YsabVsC0B4oy2AGBo6_vE-FnncNx26ucEwK9bQC9mvskV5UQ0m3kw/s1600/DSC_3412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRU8907c1evF6lN_Aw1_xV_dtRYw-aXqXd6l0HjwV94LdlFHSm6qJJks-M1c4arJGQabLA_EK85kPtHXZu7YsabVsC0B4oy2AGBo6_vE-FnncNx26ucEwK9bQC9mvskV5UQ0m3kw/s1600/DSC_3412.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Voor het Pannenkoeken hotel/restaurant. De zon scheen zelfs (voor twee seconden).</td></tr>
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Ik was benieuwd of ik dingen zou gaan missen. En of ik de andere kant, leuk zou vinden. Nee. Ik ben er wel klaar mee. Het harde werken gaat me goed af, maar alleen, in hotels, het 's avonds uit eten. Vast zitten aan één plek. Nee. Ik ben gemaakt om te ontdekken. Maar dan zonder luxe. De luxe liet het vandaag zelfs afweten. Waarom? Geen idee. Zowel m'n Suunto als m'n telefoon gps deden het niet meer. Het 3G bereik was constant slecht dus de route die ik wilde volgen kon ik niet vinden. Soms zat de gps 500m naar links, dan weer een kilometer naar links en dan zei ie dat ie geen satellieten kon vinden. Ik kwam op modder paadjes, en bij een wegafzetting was opeens de enige optie om de snelweg met nummer 60 te volgen! Langs het spoor ben ik toen naar het volgende plaatsje gelopen. Een kaart kon ik niet vinden in het plaatsje, ze hadden niet eens een benzinestation. Dan maar verder langs het spoor. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrRgRZX3ggGzVp6JL5YPDIjqfw0OylRP7X6eabYTL6w2hgPV-PVVa22yPSgs9FcuGQhDm2O60a9wGs8SBLC2Viu9pNHSUn3xJh0T5c_g7H2ceyW_IQr4QT6C_IBCVtV9wc3jwWA/s1600/IMG_0063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrRgRZX3ggGzVp6JL5YPDIjqfw0OylRP7X6eabYTL6w2hgPV-PVVa22yPSgs9FcuGQhDm2O60a9wGs8SBLC2Viu9pNHSUn3xJh0T5c_g7H2ceyW_IQr4QT6C_IBCVtV9wc3jwWA/s1600/IMG_0063.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gelukkig kan ik alleen de verkeerde kant op fietsen... In ieder geval kan ik nog niet aan de Alpen ;)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DV9znMOjnFyuIaBh3pajA8aH0eeNmTuvzfPddlzicci2fOZDDO8DA4UBxjB2V9-w5adatZSSupymbkY9geMo07UVygCvYW7g4h6OWpijj2aNjp8Tmbe5y-ByLJzjqRmRWw3_sw/s1600/IMG_0066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DV9znMOjnFyuIaBh3pajA8aH0eeNmTuvzfPddlzicci2fOZDDO8DA4UBxjB2V9-w5adatZSSupymbkY9geMo07UVygCvYW7g4h6OWpijj2aNjp8Tmbe5y-ByLJzjqRmRWw3_sw/s1600/IMG_0066.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weg afzettingen overal...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdHy1Wyu0Y1xjGqMVL-HL55g0pNkDnhWw9QhZuXWME3OdlqHzWvh1KP8WkF-2GnC4UYOoAPviSqG6Uyw0KF25wPHE_ivBPzA6R7sJH_CflicnXFtmyXQ2rJp8xI4XKp0RFK0amg/s1600/DSC_3419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdHy1Wyu0Y1xjGqMVL-HL55g0pNkDnhWw9QhZuXWME3OdlqHzWvh1KP8WkF-2GnC4UYOoAPviSqG6Uyw0KF25wPHE_ivBPzA6R7sJH_CflicnXFtmyXQ2rJp8xI4XKp0RFK0amg/s1600/DSC_3419.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaat er dan geen weg recht van Ingelheim naar Alzey...?</td></tr>
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Eindelijk kwam ik uit in iets was zinnigs leek. Nog 158km te gaan zei m'n gps opeens. What the...?! En ik had er al zo, zo veel op zitten. Vandaag zou een makkelijke dag worden. Uitrusten voor de grade finale van 220km van morgen. Niet dus... </div>
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Inmiddels zit ik een Schnitzel naar binnen te werken en ik drink er zelfs een Hefeweizen bier bij. Ik drink nooit bier. Behalve vandaag dus. Ik had er gewoon zin in. </div>
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Doodmoe. Maar wel in het hotel dat Diek gisteren voor mij geboekt had. Het stomme pannenkoeken restaurant-hotel had geen internet dus een overnachting boeken kon ik niet zelf doen.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">De regen maakte me traag, koud en moe. </span></div>
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Gelukkig drupte het maar heel even vandaag. </div>
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Maar luxe, hotels, uit eten, de luiheid van het volgen van m'n gps. Nee. Ik wil een topo, een busje met een klam en koud bed en ik wil klimmen. Ik hou van m'n leven en ik blijf er bij. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ8UwgtOPV_bzssJ4z5Z3swJJXKjmUorzdiMmLslxijADZbi8Jy2ACe7mpPSki5vC4PEY153dOueVH2TneMx86BVKXxy1HYcuhdpjGcKY-3QKzssukhDqUD6oVzIkR5w3_MgYreg/s1600/DSC_3413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ8UwgtOPV_bzssJ4z5Z3swJJXKjmUorzdiMmLslxijADZbi8Jy2ACe7mpPSki5vC4PEY153dOueVH2TneMx86BVKXxy1HYcuhdpjGcKY-3QKzssukhDqUD6oVzIkR5w3_MgYreg/s1600/DSC_3413.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busje aan de Rijn. </td></tr>
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Nu bedenken hoe ik het kan doen... M'n schrale billen hebben rust nodig. Nog één dag. Met de trein dan? Nee, dan faal ik... Falen kan ik niet... Durf ik niet... Of durf ik dat wel, eerlijk te zeggen dat het me niet lukt, eerlijk tegen mijzelf? </div>
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Hoe was het ook al weer. Die vijf punten die ik niet moet vergeten...</div>
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Dag 4. </div>
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Als het niet lukt kan Dennis me altijd oppikken. Oke, dan ga ik niet eerst met de trein en dan fietsen maar gewoon fietsen tot ik niet meer kan... Dacht ik... </div>
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Gister avond had ik het helemaal uitgezocht. Alle online kaarten die er waren had ik gevonden. Alle fietspaden kende ik. Ik had vanuit dat alles twee routes opgeschreven, zodat ik niet alleen afhankelijk zou zijn van m'n gps. Een route ging op kilometers, kruispunten en wegnummers. Best gedetailleerd vond ik. De andere was back-up van plaatsnaam naar plaatsnaam. Alles bij elkaar een paar A4tjes papier volgeschreven.</div>
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De hotel mensen die ochtend waren traaaag. Ik was snel met ontbijt maar betalen en m'n fiets uit de garage halen duurde eeuwig. Ik was alsnog pas na 8uur onderweg. </div>
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dat alles door een veel te belangrijke mevrouw. </div>
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Mevrouw sprak Duits met een raar accent, wat ik plaatste als iets Oost-Europees. Ze was ruim zestig, misschien net zeventig. Gekleed in een soort zeer fijn gebreide jurk die net iets te los zat en haar net iets te grote rolletjes om haar middel goed accentueerde. Onder de knie lange jurk droeg ze spier witte gympen en paarse sokken. Haar gezicht was 'prachtig' beschilderd. Blauw met zwarte ogen waren er getekend en haar lippen waren rood. Na een paar minuten ontbijt was de rode lippenstift veranderd in een uitgelopen abstract schilderij. Alsof ze tijdens het ontbijt, eh, nou, ja, dat dus...had gedaan... </div>
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Ze was een weekendje weg naar dit kuur-oord. </div>
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Eindelijk was er tijd om mijn fiets uit de afgesloten garage te halen. De auto die naast mijn fiets stond was meer dan het tienvoudige waard. Vandaar dat de garage zo goed op slot zat. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLAEWXrOucRf1MFDHKBqXc5dC77MjLTMuciGj0u3AplGLArXvq9ZnDRiUXlzGLlcxoLeVTWDM5l5SWkj1Eo06AR2zwTfUKh4wp6CNsJq5p_eFOvUPUROGiAVQr9o2fzlHT7_f2g/s1600/DSC_3439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLAEWXrOucRf1MFDHKBqXc5dC77MjLTMuciGj0u3AplGLArXvq9ZnDRiUXlzGLlcxoLeVTWDM5l5SWkj1Eo06AR2zwTfUKh4wp6CNsJq5p_eFOvUPUROGiAVQr9o2fzlHT7_f2g/s1600/DSC_3439.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doe mij die auto maar meneer</td></tr>
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Ondertussen stond de mevrouw met hulp van de hotelbaas haar spullen in haar luxe autootje in te laden. Twee grote ouderwetse leren koffers, drie sport tassen, twee duffels, een enorme ronde koffer die ik classificeerde als 'beauty-case' en een set van drie glimmende aluminum koffers. En natuurijk nog een paar handtassen. Het was net tetris. Ze ging terug naar huis. Sain Claude zei ze, vlak bij Parijs. </div>
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Ah, dat verklaarde alles. </div>
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Onderweg op de fiets zat ik te fantaseren hoe ze Duits geleerd had. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoPqHbX9yy8hwVng8DvSHUI0mX8OAYnDmUsnsYOkMt3Nga5yWC2GlyCp-eAt5IkaLtKXUjF5FjtHfPENATfkJoYzae3lDAYxvxQO-kFiZqvX938DocFGwSkFxnfengnfHREBPeA/s1600/DSC_3427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoPqHbX9yy8hwVng8DvSHUI0mX8OAYnDmUsnsYOkMt3Nga5yWC2GlyCp-eAt5IkaLtKXUjF5FjtHfPENATfkJoYzae3lDAYxvxQO-kFiZqvX938DocFGwSkFxnfengnfHREBPeA/s1600/DSC_3427.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Door het Schwarzwald</td></tr>
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De eerste 30km lukte aardig. Moe, niet erg snel, maar het liep wel. En toen ging het mis. Een nieuwe weg, een nieuw wegnummer. Oke, weer onderweg. Weer een ander wegnummer. Hey, nu opeens kloppen de kilometers niet meer die ik zou moeten fietsen tot de volgende afslag. Oh, nee, drup...drup... Dan maar terug, gps gepauzeerd, totdat het weer klopte. Berg op, berg af, berg op... Terug op de route. Voor eventjes. Umleitung. Dus ik fiets verder, de wegomleriding negerend. Tunnel. De hele tunnel dicht. Tja, wat dan? Gps weer op pauze en weer terug. 30km wordt 40, wordt 50... Ondertussen langzaam ook naar de back-up route aan het kijken en elk tankstation, boekwinkel en toeristenbureau vraag ik om een kaart. Gewoon een wegenkaart. Eentje van heel Duitsland voor mijn part. In de boekwinkel vragen ze waarom ik een kaart van hier wil hebben. Kaarten van de grens hebben ze wel. Zelfs de stadskaart van Lyon zit in de collectie, maar kaarten van hier, nee die hebben ze niet. In de fietsenwinkel komt de vriendelijke man met een alternatief: de fiets gps. Met alle fietsroutes. Juist ja. Een gps heb ik al. Twee keer. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggrlyEUJo1nKgyG16bDsXRZbK5AjnrMPLpBAz8Lfa7NyLzrHpNb7L9hw6viq03MbiVq7mGt7Gkj7WfnERwzibg1bhDZpoMDXtXYWBQL-rZ6qqkUygGulBaXA7MmULyrjiHYampZQ/s1600/DSC_3446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggrlyEUJo1nKgyG16bDsXRZbK5AjnrMPLpBAz8Lfa7NyLzrHpNb7L9hw6viq03MbiVq7mGt7Gkj7WfnERwzibg1bhDZpoMDXtXYWBQL-rZ6qqkUygGulBaXA7MmULyrjiHYampZQ/s1600/DSC_3446.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Krokusjes die de tijd vergeten zijn</td></tr>
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100km inmiddels. En nog geen steek (streek) verder. Constant wordt je als fietser omgeleid. Ik negeerde dat en volgde de N-, L- en K-wegen. Mensen houden hier van toeteren, zwaaien en boos kijken. Sommige BMW en Mercedes rijders houden ook van afsnijden. En heel soms kom ik een andere fietser tegen. Meestal zijn ze met z'n tweeën. Op e-bikes. En meestal haal ik ze nog in ook. </div>
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Onderweg kom ik honderden fruibomen tegen. De meesten met volle rode appels. Maar ook wel eens wat anders. Pruimen! Ik stop en vul de zakjes van m'n fietsshirt met pruimen. In m'n hand nog wat extra pruimen. Pruimen, hmmm :) </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXTjSvpuz-8alvhd-udai-24hNNVn4-ub0PbpLGx2C_2N05K_e6aGegluMu5ENgheLmEzGO1UcWsho0Wg34rM5h72Ty4AxaWrIvwgIj_GzN7EoTiJsc4QtKltKgBYPnZrCyVCbw/s1600/DSC_3441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXTjSvpuz-8alvhd-udai-24hNNVn4-ub0PbpLGx2C_2N05K_e6aGegluMu5ENgheLmEzGO1UcWsho0Wg34rM5h72Ty4AxaWrIvwgIj_GzN7EoTiJsc4QtKltKgBYPnZrCyVCbw/s1600/DSC_3441.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boomgaarden vol met dikke zoete pruimen</td></tr>
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Politie. Zwaailicht aan. En hij remt z'n auto af in de berm voor me. Of ik Duits spreek. Jup, schijnt dat ik dat wel kan. Waarom ik hier fiets. Eh, nou...omdat dit de weg is naar de volgende plaats. Of ik op het fietspad wil gaan fietsen. Hier mag ik niet fietsen. Nou meneer ik heb nergens een bordje gezien verboden voor fietsers... Nee, er is hier gewoon een fietspad. Of ik achter hem aan wil gaan, hij zal me wel naar het fietspad wijzen. Zelf vind ik fietspaden ook wel fijner. Dacht ik...</div>
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Onderweg naar het fietspad, nog geen kilometer verderop rijden we langs twee e-bikers. Die moesten natuurlijk ook mee naar het fietspad.</div>
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Het fietspad blijkt een perfect gravel pad. Dikke stenen, plassen van alle regenbuien en een goede collectie kuilen. Viel spass zegt de man nog. Langzaam hobbelend fiets ik verder. </div>
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Gelukkig geen lekke band. </div>
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Inmiddels is het 4uur geweest. Nog maar 120km gefietst volgens de teller en m'n gps geeft aan dat het nog 120km is. Op de helft. Shit. Zelfs voor Dennis is het wat ver op me op te pikken. </div>
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Ga ik door? Epic? Energie genoeg nog. Ik fiets nog een stukje en weet het niet. Morgen wordt ik op kantoor verwacht...</div>
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Ik besloot om te draaien. Terug naar de vorige stad. Nog zo'n 20km terug en dan het station zien te vinden. </div>
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Met al dit zoeken gaat het eeuwig duren. Dit is niet waarom ik fiets. Het fietsen hoort vloeiend te gaan, zonder om de 5km stoppen, zoeken, terug rijden... </div>
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Ik heb het niet gehaald. </div>
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Wachtend op de trein observeer ik de mensen. Er zal hier vast een speciale instelling in de buurt zitten. </div>
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De man naast me lijkt er normaal uit te zien. Behalve dan dat hij tegen de snoepjes automaat staat te praten. </div>
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Aan z'n rugzak hangt een grote knuffel, een zwart-wit-gevlekte poes. Om de nek van de poes zit een touwtje waarmee het beestje vast zit aan de rugzak. Terug op het bankje drinkt de man een flesje Fanta uit z'n rugzak en aait de poes zachtjes over z'n hoofd. Even later loopt de man weg, achter op z'n rugzak bungelt de poes.</div>
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Pap aan de telefoon. </div>
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Over de hele rit stuurde ik m'n vader en Dennis smsjes. En m'n vader was super snel met antwoorden en gaf me een enorme support. </div>
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Zelf fietsen ze veel. Deze zomer waren ze voor de derde keer naar Santiago gefietst. </div>
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Ze herkenden dat zoeken wel, als ze van de officiële route afweken raakten ze vaak al snel de hele weg kwijt. Bordjes die misten, paden die niet klopten. Vaak besloten ze dan gewoon een stuk over te slaan en met de trein naar een volgend punt te gaan. </div>
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In de trein mocht ik voorin meekijken over het spoor. Een enkelspoor tussen de bomen door. Voor me zag ik niet zomaar een spoor, maar het spoor uit één van mijn favoriete kinderboeken 'Het Spoortje in het Bos' van Koen Fossey. Twee meisjes ontdekken het bos achter hun huis en gaan over het oude spoor steeds verder het bos in. Ze ontmoeten allerlei speciale mensen. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWg8sAspomYEUFLFAcR4NOeTXVPwAKCDOa7nJP6RLGOlNQ7Bu1IYvNj23v2m9WgDf8MUb0lIZvsgffzR-3vjTXvvgN_15Qr9YIr9DlXFRCGK5Ycwf932P-J4p5hSx14mm8PVWWw/s1600/IMG_0075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWg8sAspomYEUFLFAcR4NOeTXVPwAKCDOa7nJP6RLGOlNQ7Bu1IYvNj23v2m9WgDf8MUb0lIZvsgffzR-3vjTXvvgN_15Qr9YIr9DlXFRCGK5Ycwf932P-J4p5hSx14mm8PVWWw/s1600/IMG_0075.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De trein - Het spoortje in het bos</td></tr>
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Vier fietsers. Mountainbikes, twee grote fietstassen, stuurtas, zadeltas en flitsende fietskleding. </div>
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Natuurlijk raakten we aan de praat. De Köningsweg was hun bestemming. Die wilden ze in drie dagen fietsen. </div>
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Waar ik dan vandaan kwam. </div>
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Nederland. Drie dagen terug. Met de fiets. </div>
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Of dit alles was wat ik mee had. </div>
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Jup. </div>
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"Spartanisch" vonden ze het. </div>
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Hoe ik er dan voor getraind had. </div>
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Ehm... Ik fiets bijna elke dag naar m'n werk, ruim 6km.</div>
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Welke route ik dan fietste.</div>
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Nou, ja, dat was vandaag ook het probleem. Ik kon de juiste route niet echt vinden. Ik vroeg of zij ook wel eens zo fietsten, gewoon van punt A naar punt B. </div>
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Nee, dat deden ze niet echt. Ze fietsten eigenlijk alleen speciaal uitgezette routes, anders was het niet te doen vonden ze. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JvL29f4h73TyuVfpcGB7JvFTZz0JfWZWC_Xkjb1XPW4c9kZfu36BcOB5WXbDT8Y-boxE9zaJsTDXz5Rtcqvh1juViEsT58f8cXkLR8QYDR8ZYqwz8u6T9XVLUbt3dG5MXesnaw/s1600/DSC_3457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JvL29f4h73TyuVfpcGB7JvFTZz0JfWZWC_Xkjb1XPW4c9kZfu36BcOB5WXbDT8Y-boxE9zaJsTDXz5Rtcqvh1juViEsT58f8cXkLR8QYDR8ZYqwz8u6T9XVLUbt3dG5MXesnaw/s1600/DSC_3457.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De mannen met hun fietsen</td></tr>
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Ah, de zoveelste die dus verteld dat zo door Duitsland fietsen niet echt gaat. </div>
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Ja, op je e-bike, met terrein banden, 50km per dag. Tuurlijk. </div>
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Maar op je racefiets? Nee, daar is Duitsland niet voor gemaakt. </div>
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Dag 5. </div>
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Terug op kantoor. </div>
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Zittend op een stoel. Zadelpijn? Ja, natuurlijk, maar het valt wel mee. Moe? Ja ook, maar dat valt ook nog wel mee.</div>
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Terug denkend aan alle overpeinzingen die ik gehad heb onderweg. </div>
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Is het oké dat ik terug ga naar Nederland? Oké dat ik niet naar India ga? Oké om zo veel te willen klimmen? </div>
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Ja. Ik fiets wel verder zo. Tegen de stroom in. De berg op. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwUpZ8PGMsoTSCnwRrX0BezOLfz5kHmblWQwmR_pwoR_iFsuL0iQjsRDABzIJdGir5iGKMhEa3Toh0N-GFm8GeGx23uJ7TWr19yecW5yatG4yVhMoe5kwZdvqr7-ruHZ7uZAdjQ/s1600/DSC_3429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwUpZ8PGMsoTSCnwRrX0BezOLfz5kHmblWQwmR_pwoR_iFsuL0iQjsRDABzIJdGir5iGKMhEa3Toh0N-GFm8GeGx23uJ7TWr19yecW5yatG4yVhMoe5kwZdvqr7-ruHZ7uZAdjQ/s1600/DSC_3429.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Einde :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-50053702303524300182014-08-06T13:40:00.003+02:002014-08-06T13:51:23.281+02:00Training - a week of whatever with a Suunto AmbitSince Expeditie Geluk, the let's-walk-around-the-Netherlands-epic I have a Suunto Ambit watch.<br />
The watch does more then just show the time. It's an alti/barometer, compass, heart rate monitor, time keeper and most of all also a GPS watch that can be connected to the internet.<br />
I got the thing for free for Expeditie Geluk. Free is always a good color.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg-IXEcaFckXCtE80U5en2xy6SdQxcYE7ymBj9hZJpLIrwbK_yv9qEizKS-j6eCPRr0X7bnV6jidDs74GJmrykER9S4DbENrJqE_QgHgvPKLWQmIvU35uJFlVwnAgquwYq4EPKg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-06+at+1.48.56+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg-IXEcaFckXCtE80U5en2xy6SdQxcYE7ymBj9hZJpLIrwbK_yv9qEizKS-j6eCPRr0X7bnV6jidDs74GJmrykER9S4DbENrJqE_QgHgvPKLWQmIvU35uJFlVwnAgquwYq4EPKg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-06+at+1.48.56+PM.png" height="320" width="313" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Now the watch does some fun things that weren't possible in 'old style' running. Of which planning a tour is the most important one.<br />
I haven't ran 'dicks' yet, but yes you can. Or flowers, or cars, or whatever figure you like to plan.<br />
See also: http://runningdrawing.tumblr.com<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15iZxcXVVBTPJkGko2Fb5UgymDjk4x1QsSfdqFYS2uY07iULGjAx7-s5cPM_Lv9Q_ggyLLDxKPQrjqhYIqFtyf4dX3YFgZKZmTBdNwLiU9Z0PIq3JTpMqJO4vbKDkSE14RE8iFw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-06+at+1.45.40+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15iZxcXVVBTPJkGko2Fb5UgymDjk4x1QsSfdqFYS2uY07iULGjAx7-s5cPM_Lv9Q_ggyLLDxKPQrjqhYIqFtyf4dX3YFgZKZmTBdNwLiU9Z0PIq3JTpMqJO4vbKDkSE14RE8iFw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-06+at+1.45.40+PM.png" height="331" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
So let's start with a short review and tell you something about my training and the watch.<br />
<br />
The good points:<br />
- you can now go out for a run wherever and always find your way back<br />
- you can start to understand your heart rate in comparison with your run (like higher heart rate when going up hill)<br />
- it actually motivates me to go out more often<br />
- it's a nice and easy addition to map and compass<br />
- easy plug and play computer connection<br />
<br />
The bad points:<br />
- pretty bulky<br />
- the route is only a line on the screen, not very accurate<br />
- battery lasts only a day when in full use for the whole day<br />
- hard to find the advanced training options in the software program<br />
- only online software<br />
- sharp edges<br />
<br />
Now I have an older version of the Ambit (the Ambit 1.) and I saw the newer version that have no sharp edges at all and are less bulky.<br />
I don't know if anything to the battery life/software options changed.<br />
The battery life is fine for any regular use, just when you'd do a multi-day alpine tour you'd get trouble with the battery life.<br />
Also, when you get in more extreme temperatures the thing gets pretty slow (but still works) up to -25ºC. Below that it starts to get issues, the screen can fog up with -15ºC, it doesn't show the temperature anymore with -35ºC and it will completely stop working around -40ºC (figured this all on our last Alaska adventure this Spring 2014).<br />
Not that any other 'smart-watch' will work with these temperatures though.<br />
<br />
Oh, and it doesn't link up with your iPhone or any phone either. Which isn't needed anyway because anyone who brings their iPhone on a run or a climb isn't climbing/running anything serious enough anyway. I mean, running with our iPhone in your pocket is just not comfortable when you run more then 2km. Next to that, the route, your HR, timing and everything is in your watch, so the phone-with-running-app isn't needed anymore.<br />
The newest version does link with your watch and you can read texts on your watch through Bluetooth or something.<br />
<br />
So. What I use the watch for.<br />
Every day things.<br />
My work-out week:<br />
Monday: up-hill + down-hill + klettersteig, drytool session<br />
Tuesday: cycling to work + boulder session<br />
Wednesday: cycling to work<br />
Thursday: cycling to work + extreme drytool session<br />
Friday: cycling to work + interval run<br />
Saturday: yoga session and small hike<br />
Sunday: rock climb<br />
Monday: up-hill + down-hill + klettersteig, drytool session<br />
Tuesday: cycle to work<br />
ect...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyRHh2cw0TfVhOabRnh8HieFZDzyqLbxzaZcvZ-Zn-tiW8TuyiDqXQEAYMHUp_vHuDbyeh2bJGkwyIu05Rv2KWF1cp4ppx9EHT5exeIooWNHhA3yS-rT_a7qB4aPaFH55vgIgmWw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.16.32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyRHh2cw0TfVhOabRnh8HieFZDzyqLbxzaZcvZ-Zn-tiW8TuyiDqXQEAYMHUp_vHuDbyeh2bJGkwyIu05Rv2KWF1cp4ppx9EHT5exeIooWNHhA3yS-rT_a7qB4aPaFH55vgIgmWw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.16.32.png" height="236" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
I was pretty tired last week and it was raining almost every day so we really missed out on the outdoor climbing sessions. That's the thing of living here. We have the mountains "close" (1hr drive) but the closest good climbing gym is more then 1hr driving... And it costs money to drive/pay entrance and money is one of the things we hardly have...<br />
So alternative training sessions. Cycling, running, bouldering, and on my free Monday I do a scramble + long run.<br />
<br />
Interesting thing to see are the route, calories, recovery time and heart rates.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-sEXe3pu12vo0br6rFO0KxiwS_tY4szVSHGbAQvNR_vrsgEIFzb3xPzAFjjdqcc3xk2D1pQ-D0vVvXlbQZQ4fZGTCpJXvaT3g0uzbulOYJO0HEI767BTUxR0qpr6Xe5_bnEQMQ/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.29.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-sEXe3pu12vo0br6rFO0KxiwS_tY4szVSHGbAQvNR_vrsgEIFzb3xPzAFjjdqcc3xk2D1pQ-D0vVvXlbQZQ4fZGTCpJXvaT3g0uzbulOYJO0HEI767BTUxR0qpr6Xe5_bnEQMQ/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.29.26.png" height="640" width="560" /></a><br />
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The route. As you can see somewhere in the upper middle of my run-hike-scramble I went the wrong way. The path I took to the hut wasn't pre-set in the map so I had to draw a line myself and guess the direction to the hut and the start of the viaferrata. I made a wrong guess and ended up a different route. After a while I realized it wasn't the right way and I had to go back. It would be useful to see more in the screen of the watch then just the line. Interfering roads, paths and landmarks for example. But my Ambit isn't that smart (yet?).<br />
Also the map used to draw the route isn't super accurate (Google maps) for some complicated turns and altitude differences (for example when mountaineering/climbing) a more accurate map would be very useful.<br />
This missing feature combined with the battery power (when in full use it lasts just a day) it still isn't the mountaineering watch it claims to be.<br />
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HR: When I do a really intense drytool session my heart rate doesn't go up to max, but my body gets really tired (I had muscle soreness after the Thursday drytool session). But following my watch I hardly have any recovery time after the session (my body tells a different story...).<br />
Recovery: Last run + scramble took me just over 5 hours of non-stop movement. My watch told me I'd need 130hours of recovery. At the end of the day during the drytool session I was too tired to do full power movements. But today I felt okay again.<br />
Calories: I always wonder who invented that thing. Did I really use over a 1000 kCal on that Monday run? And just a 300 kCal on the drytool session...?<br />
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Although these numbers aren't probably completely correct (for example sometimes the GPS signal gets lost or my heart-rate band disconnects) it's still a good thing to get a view on what my fitness level is.<br />
Basically it tells me every time again that I can run faster, climb more and cycle longer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTc-lKYo7nOTr0V7PdaJ1H7tfyEA_nXqL32jKC8KTECLuhP-lUbCZOUfYTijY4eoDgKctf_Lz_xxWSFfeF6_xpfAcKNRaPBy9TyXi5rjPbRDiAPPC-pGc-HRAd7lJeKw1udk_wg/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.34.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTc-lKYo7nOTr0V7PdaJ1H7tfyEA_nXqL32jKC8KTECLuhP-lUbCZOUfYTijY4eoDgKctf_Lz_xxWSFfeF6_xpfAcKNRaPBy9TyXi5rjPbRDiAPPC-pGc-HRAd7lJeKw1udk_wg/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-08-05+at+22.34.04.png" height="68" width="640" /></a><br />
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To get a better view on what I mean with 'drytool training' here a little video of last week's session.<br />
Watch my Suunto routes, profile and training on: <br />
http://www.movescount.com/members/lavinia-marianne<br />
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Handy: use runs/training sessions of others around you to plan your own run.<br />
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Tips and tricks from an other Suunto user:<br />
http://life.tomwright.me.uk/post/45754837411/interval-training-with-suunto-ambit<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/102273876?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/102273876">Drytool training July 2014</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1514152">Marianne van der Steen</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-41185296999470986362014-07-14T22:58:00.001+02:002014-12-25T22:04:12.637+01:00OutDoor 2014 <span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">Just a couple hours after the Outdoor Trade Show I find myself lying in my huge Ticket to the Moon hammock eating homemade jam that I put on my bread using my Light My Fire knife and writing this text on the e-reader that i just charged with my Goal Zero batterypack. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Brands; loads of them. Halls full of images that are screaming to be sold. "I’m the best” is what they’re all meaning to say. But are they? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Some are good in making you believe they’re really good an some actually are good but are still a tiny brand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Good example of the tiny brand (now bought by a big brand but still acting as a small brand and not having huge sales figures) is Crux. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Nice example of a big brand that makes you believe they’re good but actually aren’t making that much impressive stuff is Jack Wolfskin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Of course, this is my opinion, coloured by the images the brands are trying to show to me and the talks they give out.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I still don’t have big sponsors, except from Julbo who provides me with sunglasses and Scarpa who just, last week, promised us to be out new shoes sponsor (great!). </span><br />
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Still looking for a brand that fits my needs and that I’d like to represent (in clothing, cooking, equipment, sleeping). I thought I found some but I’m not that sure anymore...</span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">
For a brand it seems far more interesting to sponsor a climber from America or Germany. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Countries where there are more climbers, have climbing magazines and actually have sales figures that do matter.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The game that is being played at the trade show is one with many faces. Some are honest and tell you what they think, others have the 'American Approach' and never tell you what they think. It’s a hard game.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Being Dutch and being a climber doesn’t work that well. The country is too small for any proper outdoor business sales and we don’t have any mountains either. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Though, this is just one side of the story. I think there is more potential in the Netherlands then some brands might think. Dutch people like gadgets, new stuff, quality and a lot of them have money to spent. Too bad most of them seem to spent it abroad. Not so strange when you see whats for sale in the Netherkands compared to, let’s say the UK, Germany, Sweden or even Iceland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The potential is there, I’m sure. Just as a number, to give you an idea; the amount of members in the Dutch Mountaineerjng Federation (NKBV) is almost 60.000, as one insider told me during OutDoor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Now you Dutch shops, sales reps, magazines, websites... lets change these sales figures together. Lets make the Netherlands into a outdoor worthy country where the big brands are proud to be represented.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Let’s get back to the show. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I’ve had some time to walk around, to spot new stuff, trying to understand innovations. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I’d like to share these observations with you, share them with my direct typically Dutch opinion with my “objective but coloured view”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">No one is fully free of influences, I’m sure, although I’m not receiving any money from any brand I still have a coloured view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Now, here we go:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Colours</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">With colours I don’t just mean the thing in clothing and fashion. But also hardwear and utilities.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Over all there is a style coming up. It’s been growing over the years but is it clearly there now; retro. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The theme in general is ‘back to basic’.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The popular colours are any kind of lime/light green, pure red and navy blue. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Really, every brand has these colours now. Patagonia in their clothing and Petzl in the new colour of the GriGri and helmet. Even the gadgets have this as a new colour. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Now green, the lime green happens to be a bright colour so it stands out, is easy to spot. But the red and blue are 'boring' but seem to fit well with the retro style. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Pure stainless steel products, wood, and the simplicity reinvented fit with these colours. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Take the backpacks. Simplicity is finally there. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I overheard two Germans at a booth saying "es ist der Aldi vom Outdoor" when looking at some equipment that clearly missed the simplicity point: Six different straps, five different zippers, green combined with blue and black and a material that had the feeling of five Euro rainjackets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Take some other brands, like Crux, who've understood the simplicity concept for years already. But other brands, fairly new in the market also seem to understand the uselessness of the tweny-two-strap-systems. And most important this non-ALDI companies do understand the concept of comfort and good materials. Although...Some materials could be used more I think. Cordura is nice, durable, looks good, really retro but truly, non-woven Dyneema is the ultimate thing. Unfortunately far too expensive to successfully sell. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Nice things in the backpack scene I spotted are the new crack bags in the Patagonia line and even more cool are the Bach backpacks. Bach, a brand I didn’t even notice, as they seem fairly small. But their new line of travel packs, light durable with a very, very stylish integrated wooden structure are very sweet to look at, and as I was free to fiddle around a bit, they seemed very functional too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Looking further into the brand I spotted a small pack made for Cordura too. Roll-up top, soft shoulder pads and no other straps or nonsense. A perfect daily but also a perfect cycle pack, crack bag and hipster enough to have the school kids like them. I wouldn’t mind having one for my daily home-work-home cycle tour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Much better then the old style shoulder strap packs that always keep on sliding off your shoulder when you bike or walk.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Oh, yes, and as ropes seem to be a product almost every climbing brand tries to sell nowadays, they’re also producing new lines of rope-bags in a casual style. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Already a while ago Arc’Teryx copied an Edelrid concept and now other Edelrid concepts seem to be copied by other brands too (like the ‘Caddy’ rope-bag system). Still, Edelrid did a good job in their ‘strike-back’ and answered with clean, stylish ropebags that are functional as a regular bag too, not very Retro though, maybe slightly too colourful and technical looking for the new general style. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">And yet another pack, can't remember the name. Find it a funny system for photographers. (gosh, you can find so many </span>different<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> packs on this show!)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">To stay within the soft goods topic and retro, Clothing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">So. Having seen the technology at the bigger ones (like Polartec, Gore Tex </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">and Sympatex) I was a little disappointed again. They all claim to be better, or even the best but I'm not sure if they are. They haven’t succeeded in convincing me. With the hydrophobe-down treatments for example. Nice. Congrats all of you. You seem to be working on it. But really, if I go and climb a cold but semi-wet waterfall I don’t believe your new down will keep me warm. Same counts for the sleepingbags. On the whole fair it had been raining and on the campsite all seemed to suffer in their semi-humid sticky sleepingbags. Down and synthetic... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">In the clothing you do see a change in interest. Alpine, ice and yoga is out. Trailrunning is in. Logical. Trailrunners aren’t always dirtbags. They like flashy lightweight clothing and like trends. Most alpine climbers seem to turn away from trends. Their jackets have to be good and durable. A trailrunning jacket is lighter, has less expensive material (not always though) and can be sold to people that just do street running too. And, I have to admit I like the semi yoga-fitness-athletics style in it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Other thing spotted was the rich-people style. Gold, darker colours, classy style. Arc'Teryx seemed to be good at it. And Mammut, with their new Matterhorn anniversary line for 2015.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Cool mountain by the way :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Oh, and there a backpack I forgot to mention. Vertepack. A tiny brand that is just starting. Making a packing system that looks like a spine. They claim the system takes the weight fully off the shoulders and spreading it evenly over your lower back and hips. Interesting concept.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">From clothing to gadgets</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Loads of them. Little fiddles, tricks and extra ‘thingies’ to add in your already way too full pack. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Anything plastic that uses small cell-batteries is out. Anything meant for short-term use and isn’t bio-degradable is out too. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Though, there are some things that seem to last. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Two years ago I got a small wind-up LED lamp from Rubytec. </span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I like gadgets, but only if they’re functional and last for longer then just one trip. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">And I thought ‘well thank you, that was a useless gift, that won’t last anyway’. But, now two years later I still have it hanging on my keys and it still works! When I need a light (and that happens more often then I would like) it always works. They just introduced a couple new colours and some other small products.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">More gadegts. DEET-free insect spray, just spotted it, no idea if it actually works. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">And Jewelry from an Italian designer. Fine and nice unique stuff available in small qualities only as it's all hand made. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">In between gadgets, useful sleeping stuff and functional cool gear I found this brand in the REI last month. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">Just really wanted to have one but found them rather expensive. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">Now at OutDoor I had the chance to hear their whole story. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">The Hammock. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">Try it, go and have your hammock-day. It’s really good. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">Ticket to the Moon is the brand and I’m the happy owner of two of their hammocks now (and yes I bought the hammock). </span></div>
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In short: produced in Bali in a factory where employee welfare is important. More then the average Asian standard. They never hire people to fire them again a couple weeks later. And waste materials are used too, to make packs and more. Alltogether a very friendly company with even the European employees that are very conscious about the environment. Just to support them and their ideas I’d already choose their brand above any other. Now the stuff they sell also looks nice and you can spent all day in it.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Other stuff, cooking ware. </span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Knives. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Bear Grills was on the show. Maybe some people would find that cool. I don’t. There are far more interesting people with far more interesting survival skills. And his stuff doesn’t seem to be any better then the more original things. I prefer a axe with a hand-made wooden handle then an injection-molded thing. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Though, there’s a way in-between as well. The feminine-girly brand Light My Fire is one of my favourites. Colourful but very functional. Know for the Spork but they have more then just that. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">They just introduced some new colours to their knive collection.</span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The collapsable bowls and pots are nice looking and seem functional too. So far I only have a bowl but really thinking of buying a pot too to save some precious space in my van. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The new collection has some bamboo added to the looks, making it more friendly and ‘Retro’ (yup, there we have it again).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">OutWare is yet another brand that isn’t very well known in my outdoor world. But as I live in my camper every weekend of even more, I like stuff that packs well. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span>Mentioned earlier are the stainless steel things. Clearly to be found in the big amount of bottles you can choose of these days. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">It used to be Sigg that dominated the market and maybe a Thermos. But now there is Klean Kanteen, Stanley and many others adding onto the collection. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">And not with just some crappy rip-off Sigg bottle. A full new design with plastic free bottles (Klean Kanteen) functional thermos-mugs and other re-usable ones. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A really cool thing is the new Stanley range with meal-thermoses and a bottle that holds a French press. The all-in-one bottle with a French press, a cup for fresh ground coffee, a mug for water and a steel mug to heat the water on a stove. Too bad they used the French press, I prefer the Italian way using the Mokka for strong bitter coffee instead of the Americano 'tea-taste.' But...haven't tried it yet, so maybe...it actually does work too for the stronger coffee :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">In Stove-land I didn't find much new stuff. Finally the brands are figuring a gas-canister works better when you turn it up-side-down. So the smart ones came up with simple (Optimus) to extremely advanced (Jet Boil) systems to have the stoves work well in cold/altitude. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Not many people seemed to be very interested in the food business. Me neither. Energy-bars are out. Natural stuff is in. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">But between all the so-called natural stuff I found a brand that surprised me. Becuase of the rules on the European market Oregon Freezedried is not allowed to sell their high-fructose-corn-syrup-starch-additive food pack overhere. So they have a special 'trimmed' version for their market in Europe. No additives, no high-energy things. Basically, just food. Than that surprised me, in a good way. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">This year I didn’t have enough time to watch all the brands, I didn’t visit the tent-city and didn’t visit all the shoe brands. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">- The Uneek, a new rope-shoe from Keen. Funny to have ‘unique’ as marketing thing. And express creativity with it. It stands out. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">At least the lawn-mower-bike stood out. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">- Boreal. They launched their new alpine boots. Warmer, lighter, more comfortable they claim. Warmer is a good point. They don’t seem to be much different from some other brands, but adding some extra warmth to a 6000m boot isn’t that bad. Boreal is a nice brand, I hope for them that they manage to sell their shoes. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Though, I had to say hi to some friends that are working for different brands and spotted this on the way. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">DMM, Camp, CT, Salewa, Mad Rock, Ice Rock, Edelrid... all of them came with something new. </span><br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Really new. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0px;">To the topic I spend most time on. The hardware/climbing section. Cams, axes, harnesses, biners and more stuff like that. Most of all the belay-device topic was one that stood out.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I write "we" all the time in this story. Because most of the time I wasn't alone, but walked around with my boyfriend, best climbing partner and industrial designer, Dennis. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Here our next part of the story at OutDoor 2014. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Outdoor 2014 Hardware.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">On the Outdoor show I got a question of a climber: what made me so exited about all the new hardware and how on earth could I be all exited with another karabiner design.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Of course the innovations in hardware are not that big most of the time. A karabiner stays a karabiner, right…?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">In the way that the function stays the same to connect different climbing materials. Yes a karabiner is a karabiner.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">But smaller details change as well, not only the colours.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">This way the end user; the climber; You will get a better product!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">For example DMM makes a very nice karabiner: the Phantom and they improved it with a clean nose. This way the karabiner will not snag on slings or ropes. Existing technology they are using already on other biners, but new on ther smallest wire gate.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Other karabiners don’t work at all like the skylotec pinch lock; so safe that you need a pen to pinch the button…</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Next to the biner improvements DMM developed a whole new range of belay devices. For multipitch, sport and alpine climbing they made the Pivot. They improved the eyelet with a hinge, this way it’s much easier to release the tension off the rope when the Pivot is used in seconding-mode.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">For single rope climbing they made a very nice looking device called the “Grip”. With a magnet release system the device increases friction and jumps back with the big spring that also functions as the “keeper”. So, when belaying it’s smooth as a classic tuber but when someone falls it “grips”. Another great piece of engineering with nice hot forged aluminium CNCed and anodized finish.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Talking about belay devices; Edelrid released the Jul² specially made for single rope. In my opinion the most misunderstood device on the show. It’s a “brake assisting device” meaning; when a climber falls, the device is dynamic like a tuber but will lock of after some slipping. Of course you NEED to hold the rope! Else it would be a full Automatic (and just so you don't get any misunderstandings; in climbing a full-automatic doesn't exist, only half-automatic devices exist, like the gri-gri)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The “brake assisting function” means there is additional friction put through in the device in case of a fall. It doesn’t mean you can let go off the rope as some people on the OutDoor show where thinking… They where thinking about the locking function of the Mega Jul and mixed it up somehow with the new Camp Matik…??</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Camp introduced ther new Matik a semi-automatic belaying device with anti panic function. When rappelling or lowering the device will lock when pulled to hard on the handle. Special for smaller diameters of rope.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Also CT has a new belaying device the Be-Up is of course smaller and lighter than any other. Using a special bending technology straight after the hot forged the part and riveted together.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">And yet another belay device is ready to be launched by MadRock, a super small version of the Grigri that fits in the palm of your hand. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take any pictures of the prototype itself.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Fixe hardware bought the patent and machining to make original CCH Aliens. Now they showed the evolution of the Alien. Even smaller cam head by reducing the size of the rivets on the side and the cable connection in the centre. This in combination with good looks and smooth plastic parts the evolution Alien is ready for another 25 years (<a href="http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm" style="text-decoration: none;">http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm</a> )</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A small brand from Russia: Rock-Ice makes a incredible light ice axe: full carbon, titanium pick and Russian “armor tankgrade-steel” blade. As they told us.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">And the last but not least Edelrid rapline.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A rapline that has dynamic properties. So when the leadrope gets stuck during rappel and you have to climb up with the rapline it still safe to lead. And it can hold 2 dynamic lead falls because of the special weaving construction.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Now we can write on forever about all the other new products. Edelrid improved the Fraggle and thereby still has the best children's harness on the market (much better then the Skylotec thing seen on the picture, with a viaferrata kit for children)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">That via ferrata kit is yet a discussion on itself. I mean, really, do you want to have children of that age stand freely on a viaferrata? Please just use a rope and belay. But anyway, different discussion. I'd need six A4 papers to explain my opinion here.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Also Petzl came with a children's harness and a chest harness, something very useful for the kids and their different geometry (compared to adults). </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Though, it's not new on the market. Edelrid already had the chest harness combi for the older kids.</span></div>
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The climbing-gym topic is growing too.<br />
So many hold-manufacturers with all different techniques, styles and concepts. A smart dude even transformed a fingerboard into a digital app. Hang your phone above your board and follow the training program.<br />
Though I prefer the looks of Ant Works and I like self discipline in my training instead of an app.<br />
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Now. Let's party ;)<br />
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com2Neue Messe, Friedrichshafen, Germany47.6791991 9.507821400000011647.6685081 9.4876514000000114 47.6898901 9.5279914000000119tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-25297046781738742032014-07-10T14:45:00.000+02:002014-07-10T14:45:53.053+02:00Deep breath - breathe deepOk. And then I took a deep breath and thought. Well, let's try again.<br />
<br />
Let's try to write again.<br />
Because I like to share my adventures, experiences, thoughts.<br />
<br />
Ok. I maybe could be more tactical about how I expose my opinion to my audience [the internet]. But it's not going to change my opinion.<br />
<br />
So, here a blog post again.<br />
Hi :)<br />
<br />
Hopefully I'll have enough time in the next weeks to give you an update on what I've been up to:<br />
<br />
- Winter ice and mixed (Eiger, Flying Circus...)<br />
- Sportsclimbing on Malta<br />
- Alpine mixed in Alaska<br />
- Alpine Mentors in Alaska<br />
<br />
and general life here in Allgäu.<br />
<br />
I'll try to write some about other non-climbing stuff too, like spreading my opinion about 'zwarte piet', food, cooking, and just inspirational things I come ascross.<br />
<br />
Deep breath again - and click on *publish*<br />
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<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com1Isny im Allgäu, Germany47.6949747 10.04196760000002147.5240002 9.71924410000002 47.8659492 10.364691100000021tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-23739687315617963912014-02-21T10:09:00.001+01:002014-02-21T10:09:15.189+01:00Mouth shut<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXzNAVI-YK6KiNXNHyBvaf3EkctbfTicfNt3RcrTYlWTsyPFF3tfUe13uZyiZhT4zdETUFpT5g2MziYqvowkKgwEAtn9SRm1Qp-zjkXHzm5iUVf3lHYs31TelNkutGI_-wsYfTA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-21+at+10.04.22+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXzNAVI-YK6KiNXNHyBvaf3EkctbfTicfNt3RcrTYlWTsyPFF3tfUe13uZyiZhT4zdETUFpT5g2MziYqvowkKgwEAtn9SRm1Qp-zjkXHzm5iUVf3lHYs31TelNkutGI_-wsYfTA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-21+at+10.04.22+AM.png" height="202" width="320" /></a>After quite some back-talks and very angry reactions on my recent blog posts there won't be any posts here for the next months.<br />
<br />
Apparently I'm not allowed to say what I think.<br />
<br />
You reached your goal. Thank you for trying to destroy my opinion and all that comes with it.<br />
<br />
Now next step I saying it in my face instead of behind my back. I thought we're Dutch. Honest.<br />
<br />
F*.<br />
<br />
<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-38898912501334733402014-02-10T10:50:00.000+01:002014-02-10T10:50:16.118+01:00StarzlachklammEvery weekend I try to make most of the free time I have.<br />
This saturday I had the chance to go for an easy ski-tour. Fantastic! It was my first time to just go ski-touring for the ski-touring instead of using it as a tool to get to an ice climb. I first was afraid on not being able to keep up with the group, being too bad of a skier but... I actually did totally fine!<br />
Motivated to do this more often now :)<br />
<br />
Saturday was dry tooling day. Some people promised to join but in the end they couldn't for several reasons. Which was okay because now we had more time to focus on the climbing itself.<br />
The missing hold I was writing about last week is now replaced. I was too scared to drill the hole, afraid to destroy the rock (something in me says drilling holes in wrong). Dennis made the new hole on the place where the hold had broken off and I was happy being able to make the move now :)<br />
<br />
I made a little video to show more of the area. It was way too warm so there isn't much ice now and topping out is too dangerous in the roof-routes because of the constant melting and falling ice and rocks from above the roof.<br />
Too bad we couldn't top out the M12 because of that.<br />
As you can see there's more then just M10 and M12.<br />
Contact us if you need any route details as the most up-to-date topo can't be found online (yet).<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/86259130" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/86259130">Starzlachklamm Drytooling</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1514152">Marianne van der Steen</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-22522797609077733492014-02-04T22:37:00.000+01:002014-02-05T10:35:26.106+01:00Fit at the start and then it gets canceled :(This evening was a romantic Dennis and Marianne evening.<br />
As Dennis really struggles with all his bad luck and his injured leg, I thought it would be good to go out for dinner.<br />
We discussed all kinds of things, like how nice the route Tomahawk is, and I wanted to see a picture.<br />
Got on the internet and... all over Facebook, Twitter and other social channels: Worldcup canceled.<br />
Nooooo!<br />
I feel so fit, strong and super motivated!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-uKw0ekf1O4zV1jWbUQBTOMxqlb668AFqiMlFkPFEs3IQXZNMZn2I6aDu2JbyMB489ciC8dEbJMiWEBpCMB4vcqYsOCjDNibiZLjKCyKJfSpHgL4J2MUoEGsA1r9WGCWxYLjuw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-02-04+at+22.54.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-uKw0ekf1O4zV1jWbUQBTOMxqlb668AFqiMlFkPFEs3IQXZNMZn2I6aDu2JbyMB489ciC8dEbJMiWEBpCMB4vcqYsOCjDNibiZLjKCyKJfSpHgL4J2MUoEGsA1r9WGCWxYLjuw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-02-04+at+22.54.35.png" height="320" width="245" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rabenstein ice tower yesterday. Today theres even more snow. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mQkM48U_E0zlpYSiX6k0AKsmLT4h3TPWhK4VI417V3Jh9hHOcmm7T6IOGQ6PeFfGumN-_oxkfa-_LFfg7Mr23r0BqNPnuCgNWgJWBWU2DHzH156GOX8tPYpA9La_3mxvRUGdEw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-02-04+at+22.53.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mQkM48U_E0zlpYSiX6k0AKsmLT4h3TPWhK4VI417V3Jh9hHOcmm7T6IOGQ6PeFfGumN-_oxkfa-_LFfg7Mr23r0BqNPnuCgNWgJWBWU2DHzH156GOX8tPYpA9La_3mxvRUGdEw/s1600/Screen+shot+2014-02-04+at+22.53.57.png" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herman, from the organisation, working hard to make a path to the ice tower. </td></tr>
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<br />
Rabenstein is a tiny place on the Italian- Austrian border between Ötztal and Meran.<br />
It's always rough there in winter times but this weeks was more then usual. And this time it is more then just rough: 2m of fresh snow and more to come. Closing off the village and making it a hazardous place because of the avalanche danger.<br />
The guys there were working super hard to get the roads free again. But, they're predicting more snow for the upcoming days, getting the avalanche danger to the highest level.<br />
Logically for our own safety they had to cancel the event.<br />
<br />
This week has been just for climbing:<br />
With Saturday some new bolts on the Rubihorn Nordwand thanks to Daniel Gebel. Ritchi our roommate invited us to go with for a midday tour on the Rubihorn. I couldn't resist although I knew I was going to be on for three days more after that.<br />
In the evening Roland arrived. He bought new iceaxes and needed to try them. I took some days off and went out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYyWPEXH7DZujlFrgTsez4e2QbR6Z79pd8uBOJXOtSXwMu7_iSdhVzWWR_k3EvHmSgwN0mEjnFOYZpZw8T6BZlTr6QNn6ppxAKb-UGPX_sGPBvgTKGhAxIUr8jsYvi7NCu2OAQw/s1600/IMG_9410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYyWPEXH7DZujlFrgTsez4e2QbR6Z79pd8uBOJXOtSXwMu7_iSdhVzWWR_k3EvHmSgwN0mEjnFOYZpZw8T6BZlTr6QNn6ppxAKb-UGPX_sGPBvgTKGhAxIUr8jsYvi7NCu2OAQw/s1600/IMG_9410.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's quite overhanging there for Roland</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNb5AqfXm9zYWO0dwPQwDRhLshTw8xL0YU-hlT4yfD1oXAfpdour9sPoo7HJuA9sN2nGxomOcVIP2XAgyN920ynak4dUkl0KC5YS7URJBA3HwoX2mpXQ8LdeFv6BLD-eW8eA3CwQ/s1600/L1030501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNb5AqfXm9zYWO0dwPQwDRhLshTw8xL0YU-hlT4yfD1oXAfpdour9sPoo7HJuA9sN2nGxomOcVIP2XAgyN920ynak4dUkl0KC5YS7URJBA3HwoX2mpXQ8LdeFv6BLD-eW8eA3CwQ/s1600/L1030501.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging out the toprope-gun ;)</td></tr>
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<br />
That Sunday we climbed in Starzlachklamm. I taught him some tooling and skills but the M8 I hung out was still a bit too hard for him.<br />
For my feeling is was (is?) quite an established alpinist and not a bad rock climber either. But this drytooling was different. Still we had fun.<br />
<br />
We heard the classic Hangende Garten was very climbable at the moment. So it was easy to make the Monday-plan: Austria :)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegkrmm-NZKdmj0FNM5AyfXkOMLtKLSkkkCqWOwluPm6Xlh0TqhITyzUNjrYa4AAHzsPAON2eofCbOqKPnElCKw1DPg7tSDY7ksyhg4Z1kb2xUgVwkBvxvWhFLu0Hgyj1DFN3GGg/s1600/L1030503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegkrmm-NZKdmj0FNM5AyfXkOMLtKLSkkkCqWOwluPm6Xlh0TqhITyzUNjrYa4AAHzsPAON2eofCbOqKPnElCKw1DPg7tSDY7ksyhg4Z1kb2xUgVwkBvxvWhFLu0Hgyj1DFN3GGg/s1600/L1030503.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hangende Garten</td></tr>
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Roland still getting used to his new iceaxes fiddled his way up the first pitch (WI3).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzUVZF1G3yCh9CRGD2vLYCo3NnlLVBrIxZedBnwz_zj9ltFWitBtv4u2V27vQwhW0Xjxb8ff5wwZ82_703BypWAVdcIqsw2ZJD7wY9tJLIpIda8clPqzPHdPeY7gly4qCKxGw39g/s1600/IMG_9422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzUVZF1G3yCh9CRGD2vLYCo3NnlLVBrIxZedBnwz_zj9ltFWitBtv4u2V27vQwhW0Xjxb8ff5wwZ82_703BypWAVdcIqsw2ZJD7wY9tJLIpIda8clPqzPHdPeY7gly4qCKxGw39g/s1600/IMG_9422.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roland on the first pitch.</td></tr>
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I ran up and got ready for the real stuff. Thanks to our roommate we had a double 60m. rope. Enough to climb the WI6 and the WI5 all in once.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYq0RhnU3sm7d1lIHr9lrkyrL12iiH7FPyETPpk25evbBsuXcahdtsxpEOl1gobBGWwL77ddUyvCV9bGPXqtxwy7hdhCdXMrOCu6rPsUU5cQZNVL6nXV4V8McmstRjvPKA67Pt9w/s1600/L1030508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYq0RhnU3sm7d1lIHr9lrkyrL12iiH7FPyETPpk25evbBsuXcahdtsxpEOl1gobBGWwL77ddUyvCV9bGPXqtxwy7hdhCdXMrOCu6rPsUU5cQZNVL6nXV4V8McmstRjvPKA67Pt9w/s1600/L1030508.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This WI6 is fun! </td></tr>
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I left a tiny bit of easy stuff in the end for Roland to lead.<br />
"I would have placed more screws then those four" was the first thing he said when he came up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPjMO_0h0UY04Xc5LBGD5MiNIwG-l3LYf3IQqInmBrR9Grk0lHyKLnDzhweq9Az5YTrcijflWEaMkCDLxhlDvZstE5WNXbZtOmNSmOg9PtF90YUlsHJh-3udPLkL6_5K02AdPbQ/s1600/IMG_9438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPjMO_0h0UY04Xc5LBGD5MiNIwG-l3LYf3IQqInmBrR9Grk0lHyKLnDzhweq9Az5YTrcijflWEaMkCDLxhlDvZstE5WNXbZtOmNSmOg9PtF90YUlsHJh-3udPLkL6_5K02AdPbQ/s1600/IMG_9438.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roland in the snowy last bit of the WI5</td></tr>
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I just felt fine and the two abalakov-thread ropes on the way up looked fine as well. The route felt super easy but so fun to climb!<br />
Satisfied we drove back to Germany.<br />
Today we actually wanted to climb in Eptingen but logistically it didn't seem to work out well. Closer it seemed most places were missing the crucial ice so in the end it became Starzlach again.<br />
Having dreamt of how to climb the seemingly impossible M12 I headed up. Without warming up I stepped into the route and got pretty far.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDFggNPj3DhFBrEpyjFAgtL4T6qgXyW4DPEZI0CrqqSEPmXFzfERpOj-43726nBYYV48k3lD71ansIKyH3nuU1W-ivMARSznZz-xc2XZ-K1_im7xd5wgeUweLzL3u2eRhOFJ7yMQ/s1600/L1030502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDFggNPj3DhFBrEpyjFAgtL4T6qgXyW4DPEZI0CrqqSEPmXFzfERpOj-43726nBYYV48k3lD71ansIKyH3nuU1W-ivMARSznZz-xc2XZ-K1_im7xd5wgeUweLzL3u2eRhOFJ7yMQ/s1600/L1030502.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging around, confused on how to stick the next moves.</td></tr>
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Meanwhile Roland managed to climb M7 and got motivated for an M8. The M12 moves still seemed impossible! I felt rather defeated. How could these moves be so, so long?!<br />
After a couple tries I decided a dyno would be the only option to finish the route. And so I did. Just barely hanging on I stuck the impossible move but not from the start of the route yet.<br />
I came down and wanted to take some pictures of Roland in his climb and then I saw the text: "...hook is missing. I broke it about three weeks ago. I will drill something where it was."<br />
Ah, so it was impossible after all.<br />
Well good Worldcup preparations. Too bad the Worldcup is canceled now.<br />
Time for a rest day. Time to get back to the real world: work.<br />
<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-50613401351662080992014-01-31T20:24:00.000+01:002014-01-31T20:24:24.639+01:00Modding iceclimbing shoesThe annoying thing of fruitboots is that most come standard with a specific crampon. The Boreal's with Black Diamond, the Asolo with Petzl, the La Sportiva with Grivel...<br />
So if you want to have Petzl crampons on Boreal boots (or any other combi) this is what you can do:<br />
<br />
1. Get a couple spacer rings to figure where the bolts need to be.<br />
2. If needed drill holes on the right places through the crampon for the right fit<br />
3. Take the new crampons, marked and well off the boot<br />
4. Weld the spacers in place<br />
5. Tadaaa :)<br />
<br />
It works much better then spacer-plates, or loose spacers. It's less weight added and they won't move (like they did apparently when I climbed the Worldcup finals last week, thats why we now got this technique fixed)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJ8p98RDY747GetFoGw_dnYEgN2B83EVwRhPlqh4dSm66d4gjrSxnGNK_KARFxea2i_36xyNht6juRbEn9cyj_RWcCFNFqe58fTJ4NZiSMCRZLRFRdZJKaxuzrOl53lvPw49fIA/s1600/1511878_10152269096446015_304671142_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJ8p98RDY747GetFoGw_dnYEgN2B83EVwRhPlqh4dSm66d4gjrSxnGNK_KARFxea2i_36xyNht6juRbEn9cyj_RWcCFNFqe58fTJ4NZiSMCRZLRFRdZJKaxuzrOl53lvPw49fIA/s1600/1511878_10152269096446015_304671142_o.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-52792671850573546002014-01-29T18:06:00.001+01:002014-01-29T18:08:04.789+01:00ISPO Munich 2014 - The climbing gear<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><b>ISPO 2014</b></span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Not being sponsored by a climbing hardware company gives an awkward advantage when visiting the ISPO. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">This year I was allowed to take a look at the current market with a very open mind. I even heard myself saying “I think I’d like to use that”. To a brand-manager of a brand that I formerly never even thought of looking at. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Though, climbing is a Summer business and with the Outdoor Show in Salt Lake almost at the same time there was less innovation show then I was hoping for. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I expected to see more innovation in harnesses for example. A lot of brands started making harnesses although it’s not their core business. For example Grivel and also Beal are more and more getting into other stuff then just ropes. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On the first day we had quite some meetings but on the second day I took the time to walk around and take some pictures of the stuff that I found interesting. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Of course, this is just a small collection. I didn’t focus too much on anything lifestyle-likely or anything less climbing orientated (like skiing and snowboarding or swimming). </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">So the following reviews give only just a small glimpse on what you could have found on ISPO. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Harnesses</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Ocun came with a ‘plastic mesh’ harness, claiming better breathability compared to the current harnesses on the market. In fact is was just a piece of ‘plastic’ mesh without the fancy looking texture covering over it. Nothing new. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Beal has now for a while harnesses that have the ‘Arc’Teryx-look’. But taking a closer look makes it rather obvious that it’s just a similar look and not the same technology. It looks rather fancy, going with the current ‘climbing fashion’ and is quite a lot cheaper then the rather overpriced Arc’Teryx harnesses. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">For as far as I saw Edelrid is still making the most comfortable harnesses on the market with their innovative 3D technology. In the first place the harness looks rather bulky but with actually wearing it you don’t even notice the bulky leg-loops. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I was able to try the harness for a while now and even used it in the Iceclimbing Worldcup finals, where moving legs into complicated figure-of-fours is crucial. The bulkiness didn’t bother me at all, actually, I didn’t notice the harness on my body at all. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Edelrid also came with a new rental-harness. Clear markings in the leg-loops make it obvious on wich is left and which loop is right. The small elastic in the middle of the two legloops makes it impossible to turn the loops the wrong way around. Also the two elastics on the back of the loops, connected to the hip-belt are sewn in, finishing with the problem of people taking them off, turing them upside down and so on. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I liked the sewn-through gear-loops on the waist-belt. Sew through and thus adding strength and durability. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Indoor Climbing</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">With rental-harnesses I get onto the topic of indoor climbing. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">More and more brands are making special indoor draws now. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Petzl came with their new Djinn quickdraw. Rather fancy looking draw out of steel. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Usually draws nowadays are made as light as possible, making concessions on durability. But draws that hang permanently in the wall dont’t need to be light. They need to be durable. And thus they’re made of steel and have thicker slings. Logical. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I was wondering what took all brands this long to introduce their gym-draws. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Petzl wasn’t the only one with the gym-draw. <br />
We all know the classic Fixe quickdraw that is hanging in most gyms. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">New was the Grivel draw, the CT draw, the Singing Rock draw, Edelrid draw and even Rock Empire came with their own gym-draws. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">But still, it’s all just a draw, made out of an other kind of metal. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Recently Mammut did a recall on their new top-anchor. They’d made an top-anchor for indoor climbing, one that you can only clip into, and can’t undo. But next to clipping in the rope, you could clip in your fingers. The sharp system could easily make a nasty cut in your finger. Not the nicest thing to happen when being pumped hanging the top of the route. They didn’t show their new version yet on the ISPO, making me guess what they’re up to now considering the development of the thing. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">For Edelrid this was an advantage. They also came with their new gym anchor. Leaving the whole theory of how an top-anchor needs to look behind, starting from scratch making a device that is new, different and definitely innovative!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The device seems to work super smoothly; taking up the rope, pushing it into the device. You don’t have to open draws, biners, screw-gates, no, just lift up the rope and lay it onto the opning of the device. Automatically the system closes, making it impossible to clip out the rope or clipping in more rope (or fingers). The base on where the rope lays is thicker then any draw on the market. With this thick surface the ropes runs super smoothly through the device minimising rope-drag, twists and curls in the rope. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On top of that all the thing is hanging on a 3D swivel construction. Never twisted top-ropes or ropes running in an angle. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Other funny thing they came with is the gym-draw. A full steel draw on a sling that changes colour when it gets older, giving you sign on when to change the draws. The draw itself is hung in the sling with a bolt, making it impossible to twist or side-load but still changable from the sling. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The current leader, Fixe, has a biner with a small pin, that avoids the side-loading and twisting, but in the gyms this small pin is often missing after a while. Implementing the anti-sideload into the hanging system of the draw sounds a lot more logical. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Another little detail was the small rubbers on the sides of the biner, protecting the wall from damage by the biner. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">As being Dutch, I think the gym-climbing is a very interesting culture. One that is growing and producing different climbers then the ones that grew up with natural rocks and outdoor activities. It’s more and more become a ‘fitness-culture’ with a majority of climbers that have never touched real rock in their whole career. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I think in the near future we can expect more innovations playing into the gym culture. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Ice gear</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I just have to start with the icescrews here. Quite some brands have been trying to make screws that are more efficient. Connecting the draw to the screw (Grivel), having tubes to carry your screws (Petzl), making it possible to screw out the screw without disconnecting it from the rope (Petzl) and changing angles of the screw-teeth to make the whole thing go in faster. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">That last thing is something Petzl did with their new screw range. The teeth are more aggressive, the wire holds better because of the different shape and they’re even lighter. To my opinion a pretty good screw that kicks Black Diamond off the leading ice-screw position. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Salewa actually did an even better job on the ice screw innovation. They made a screw that is rather similar to any other on the market but, the racking system, the head, the usability is incredible. After having tried it I was convinced I would trade my old Grivel, Black Diamond and (old) Petzl screws for a set of these ones. First of all you don’t need a special biner (‘Carry-tool’ or ‘Ice-clipper’) on your harness to rack your screws. That was horrible, when using different brands of screws... </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The draw is integrated on the screw so you can just clip them on your regular gear-loop. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The problem with that was always when trying to screw in the the thing, the sling would swing and twist around. They made a metal ring around it all, making the draw always hang down. Of course because of this, it’s also possible to screw in/out without having to clip the thing off your rope. Handy for desperate climbs and clumsy clients. Then the super nice thing is the plastic head. It has a big rounded surface, so pushing the screw the first three turns goes easier then ever. Then the integrated handle is rather big, adding extra force and speed on the screw-turning action. And, another positive thing of the plastic cover; on glaciers, climbing with clients in sunny crevasses for example, you’d normally constantly cover your screw with ice. On ‘aper’ glaciers that is rather impossible to find, causing the screw to melt out. The plastic cap covers the whole screw, avoiding the melting around the metal. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Though, I’m still a fan of using screamers, they don’t provide the things with the shock-absorbing slings. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Another comment I heard was; “now how about when you can’t get the screw in all the way, like when touching rock, can you tie-off the sling”? No. You can’t tie off or lock the sling. But you can just place a sling or rope over the remaining piece of screw that is sticking out. Personally I think you should have placed your screws differently or use shorter screws anyway. To me it hardly (almost never) happens that I have to tie-off a screw. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Other ice gear I saw were the new crampons, the Edelrid Beast-light won the ISPO price. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">They do exactly what the name says: technical super light crampon. The changing system looks easy. Duo, mono, bindings can all be changed in a fast way, even blonde girls (like me) can easily adjust the system. To my opinion a crampon for everyone, from beginners to pro’s. One small thing, I really like the hook that the Petzl Lynx crampons have on their side-frontpoints on the left and right, making it easy to ‘hook’ the things around rocks and technical ice. But well, thats a thing you’d only need when climbing more then M9. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On fruitboots (or iceclimbing shoes) there isn't much new except of something very new: the Scarpa shoes are light, warm, rigid and very functional looking. Good job on designing those. They're lighter and far more functional then any shoe on the market so far. The heelhooking option, the warm inner, the stability, the versatality of being able to use different crampons... I tried them on and when you're finally in them, the twisting system with steel cable is really securing your feet in. Just waiting to get the right size. Good job on that Scarpa!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Iceaxes are becoming popular things too. They’re becoming more and more like real gadgets. CNC’d aluminium tools, fat shafts in fancy colours, multi-grip handles, and even special drytool holds. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Trango showed two prototypes of their new dry/comp tool that looks rather similar to the Grivel tools that were already on the market. For as far as I saw they had a nice swing. Something that can’t be said for the Grivel comp tools. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Grivel also improved their other, real iceclimbing tools and CNC’d one of those too. Making it look rather fancy but very durable. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">DMM still has the same tools. Durable, as always, but slightly too heavy and the handle is a bit too big to my opinion. (And yes, I have big hands)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Black Diamond seems to have done a good marketing work on their new tool. But in fact the old-old Fusion is still 100% better then the thing they now introduced. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">It looks fancy with the black-green shaft and handle but thats just all, basically they made them just cheaper to produce. The current Fusion has a built in hammer, the new tool doesn’t have a hammer at all. The handle has been improved slightly, by adding some extra grip in the pink-rest but the shaft is super fat, making hooks in narrow cracks impossible. And although they reduced the weight it’s still super heavy. So, although they make it look like a cool toy, it’s nothing new. Just a way to sell more Black Diamond stuff, to sell more iceaxes. Just a marketing tool.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TgowIbTmPmEvoT9cqVu3G5v9Fqu6G__WYJZqAeoSSCDXpeL33cBzpjFY0CEv_N-W_uq6VztiA-TnDeze_yv1Yq69ChV-MDZOSa_1i2OtXL8m_oUKZBYKtT1lX5M2sm-kpVi_IA/s1600/IMG_9349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TgowIbTmPmEvoT9cqVu3G5v9Fqu6G__WYJZqAeoSSCDXpeL33cBzpjFY0CEv_N-W_uq6VztiA-TnDeze_yv1Yq69ChV-MDZOSa_1i2OtXL8m_oUKZBYKtT1lX5M2sm-kpVi_IA/s1600/IMG_9349.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I took a look again at the Cassin axes. The wide handle actually made it look like a rather comfortable iceaxe. Wouldn’t mind trying it out. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Petzl didn’t change anything on their axes. The shaft is still too thin, they still haven’t changed anything on the head of the axes. So still, after half a year of full-time use they’d wear out, the head will come loose and you still have the chance on breaking the shaft. Sad, I expected more from them. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">There are a couple brands making specialised drytooling holds that we now see on the Worldcup Competitions. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The most beautiful ones are the granite holds used in Saas Fee. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Edelrid took a totally different approach on drytooling holds. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">They showed their stainless steel 2-way hold. Super durable, 100% sure it won’t break when taking it as ‘stein-pull’. and not much ‘waste space’ making it possible to place on any regular climbing wall. Fancy, small, durable. So clearly useable for anyone. Though, I’d use a thin plate on the wall to protect the wall for the stein-pulls. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Other climbing stuff</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Petzl introduced their new bright orange crashpads. Too bright for most costumers I think and too expensive for the others. Nothing too much special. Just a crashbad basically. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Trango implemented a ‘screen’ into their helmet, having instant sunglasses. Funny. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Grivel came with their new karabiner. A funny double clip system that Stevie Haston explains in a way too long video. In the video it looks like he’d been practising a lot, but when he introduced it to us on ISPO and I tried it myself I could do it first go with my eyes closed. I had to admit it actually works better then I expected. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">They expect to sell a lot of those. I’m wondering how the market will react. If they’ll believe in it or rather stay with the (maybe) nicer looking other biners like the ones from DMM, Petzl or Edelrid. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yPb8XF4gbksPyv5ObAKkIp09hxB-ySbD8nce5MTffk7ocjZ3FuOU21DeIvjz_aR4XyvDPppAvxzQFGXtDxWYKrW7v8KMveuYRrApAMNGrg7fwK0wFxOESXFbFiEwoRze6vgN4g/s1600/DSC00666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yPb8XF4gbksPyv5ObAKkIp09hxB-ySbD8nce5MTffk7ocjZ3FuOU21DeIvjz_aR4XyvDPppAvxzQFGXtDxWYKrW7v8KMveuYRrApAMNGrg7fwK0wFxOESXFbFiEwoRze6vgN4g/s1600/DSC00666.JPG" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Other stuff</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Being fan of Patagonia I had to take a look at their new stuff. Rather weird for a winter fair was their introduction of the new wetsuits. Totally made of natural products. Simple, but so good that they’re so aware of environmental issues. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Mountain Hardware won an award for their gloves. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I was able to use MH gloves last winter (until I lost one) and was surprised by their comfort. Not as thick as the Black Diamond classic gloves, warm and very, very water proof. Next to the way, way too expensive Arc’Teryx gloves I think those are the best on the market by now. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxWFO1EggA7LytDZZESIkJRDcODQns0vngUqUL1OKXOcq_HGyX1Z94ayc3CweiaI4O4yYMYigwh4jnEOXMNWM_VKj5LcuZo5UZ-O_hxaxrg-Q4StZI1PRuIw3bb0t2BnUieXkNw/s1600/IMG_9363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxWFO1EggA7LytDZZESIkJRDcODQns0vngUqUL1OKXOcq_HGyX1Z94ayc3CweiaI4O4yYMYigwh4jnEOXMNWM_VKj5LcuZo5UZ-O_hxaxrg-Q4StZI1PRuIw3bb0t2BnUieXkNw/s1600/IMG_9363.JPG" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Being a climber I also need to use sunglasses. They more and more get functional by special lenses and comfortable textures. I’m not really a skier or boarder, but I noticed the goggles are getting better and different too, with lenses that lay onto the frame instead of in the frame, giving more visibility. The Zebra lenses used in Julbo products are auto adjusting the amount of light to protect your eyes.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKLp6Oqa2kHMvs90nAdElICqTZO0q3q4Qi2zz5N6eqHGI5nu3sMbHbpJGAM9rNws6SZ12EFO3bnH0oulJJHqE4iJ8_0NaIbqbU3py_DXCXKcIPzB-IMg_gSvRYbPfAauc8_NuCQ/s1600/IMG_9359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKLp6Oqa2kHMvs90nAdElICqTZO0q3q4Qi2zz5N6eqHGI5nu3sMbHbpJGAM9rNws6SZ12EFO3bnH0oulJJHqE4iJ8_0NaIbqbU3py_DXCXKcIPzB-IMg_gSvRYbPfAauc8_NuCQ/s1600/IMG_9359.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Rock Empire presented their climbing jewelry. A couple years ago I’d bought some earrings in climbing town Arco. They had the shape of tiny bolts with draws. Looking at the way Rock Empire presented them I was astonished. Very fine precisely shaped draws, bolts, cams and knots. Much finer then the ones I bought. Much nicer then what I’d seen so far. </span>Marianne: "<i>I’d like some as present from my boyfriend ;</i>) "</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BIA0yB20FYflTCm7bOnx-LDmLjcD2WQKVjhYW4TjTVpeyQZL6hkt_W-Zas6YTg8VSEGd06n3Hub6mme6XVu7SD7UVS4iV2g5t7VfW984XqSnQ5vKCsOAb5pzW97u7uEzYg4jiQ/s1600/IMG_9369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BIA0yB20FYflTCm7bOnx-LDmLjcD2WQKVjhYW4TjTVpeyQZL6hkt_W-Zas6YTg8VSEGd06n3Hub6mme6XVu7SD7UVS4iV2g5t7VfW984XqSnQ5vKCsOAb5pzW97u7uEzYg4jiQ/s1600/IMG_9369.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Other cool thing: the Mammut "photograph".</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Having walked on my Keen Alaska boots for 1,5 years now Keen finally came with a womens version of the boot. Rather warm, nice looking and much better priced then the popular brand Sorel. Just because of the ridiculous pricing I’d never buy a pair of Sorel shoes. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFEyOIA1eIe4d9EpEK_DSBYlTdWgPJJOeqpF5oyxrfVg51bWOv7cRrH3mUVDbW13FaiG_79kxd5Nh1qTh6UaTlM-vrr7L_8mhi4ZteFuFcJhMZNdBxBkptSNZuY3TxdPPFu1ODg/s1600/IMG_9366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFEyOIA1eIe4d9EpEK_DSBYlTdWgPJJOeqpF5oyxrfVg51bWOv7cRrH3mUVDbW13FaiG_79kxd5Nh1qTh6UaTlM-vrr7L_8mhi4ZteFuFcJhMZNdBxBkptSNZuY3TxdPPFu1ODg/s1600/IMG_9366.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9k3liZ2yTOIzWmIey9hVg0eUmaxUbwGUaExdxDmAHA9E0wFLR0AhqwT4L4cXHRj-ybmTYeZGIgQiCtOjTfL7Mku1T1ITZ55p1wCIRrSkAjtDhvs-tpyBvJfBvVN7uezS7y2bAQ/s1600/IMG_9367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9k3liZ2yTOIzWmIey9hVg0eUmaxUbwGUaExdxDmAHA9E0wFLR0AhqwT4L4cXHRj-ybmTYeZGIgQiCtOjTfL7Mku1T1ITZ55p1wCIRrSkAjtDhvs-tpyBvJfBvVN7uezS7y2bAQ/s1600/IMG_9367.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On the clothing I didn’t see much innovative. We still have the waterproofed down, the different membranes, Gore Tex and Polartec etcetera. Funny thing to see is that most brands are getting into the bigger zippers again. Zippers that work better then the too fine ones you saw the last years in the waterproof jackets. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">And next to that I saw a lot of fancy clothing stuff in the stands like Maloja. But that’s just fashion, nothing innovative on that :)</span></div>
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-6694554073115569502014-01-26T07:22:00.001+01:002014-01-26T21:41:34.582+01:00Zo professioneel...zoals De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig zei.<br />
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Onze sport, ijsklimmen werkt toe naar een Olympische status. Daarvoor zijn wij als atleten uitgenodigd in Sochi. We zijn al een Olympisch erkende sport (nou ja, erkend, in Nedeland is alleen de heren discipline erkend) en we willen ook echt uitkomen op de spelen in de toekomst. De kracht van de sport is hoe spectaculair het er uit ziet. Saas Fee trekt er een parkeergarage vol met niet-klimmers mee die al juichend Hee Yong Park naar de top zien klimmen. Geen flauw idee hoe lastig de bewegingen zijn, ze vinden het blijkbaar gewoon mooi. En, ze betalen ervoor. Je moet entree betalen om het te mogen zien!</div>
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Wij, Dennis en ik deden ook mee in Saas Fee. Dennis won er zelfs vorig jaar. </div>
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Dit jaar helaas niet. We hadden ook wel een hele ongelukkige voorbereiding waarbij we voor Dennis in december en januari meer ziekenhuizen van binnen hebben gezien dan klimhallen. Ondertussen is Dennis aan het afstuderen en alsof het allemaal nog niet genoeg was prikt hij zijn ijsbijl 5cm diep z'n been in door het slechte ijs in de speedklim kwalificaties. Hij kan amper op z'n been staan nu en heeft minimaal 3 weken nodig om te herstellen. </div>
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Ondanks te slechte voorbereiding schopte ik mijn stijgijzers wel naar de finale en stond ik opeens tussen de grote groep echte professionele klimsters. Ik kan met zekerheid zeggen dat deze wedstrijd de zwaarste is uit de hele competitie. De wand, de routes, de hoogte (en dus het gebrek aan zuurstof) en het deelnemersveld was nog niet eerder zo sterk. Iedereen in de top 12 behalve ik, had in de afgelopen twee jaar al minimaal een keer op het podium gestaan. </div>
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Ik had dit jaar nog geen enkele keer op een wedstrijdwand geklommen. In tegenstelling tot de rest van die top 12, die zo'n wand soms letterlijk in hun achtertuin hebben liggen. Op sommige stukken was het heel duidelijk dat ik het beetje achtertuin ervaring hard miste. Wat me uiteindelijk een 7e plaats opleverde. </div>
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En ja, achteraf zeg je altijd dat je het beter had kunnen doen... </div>
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Ik was er toch wel soort van blij mee, want ik was lang niet zo zenuwachtig als de afgelopen jaren en ik vond het zo tof om te mogen klimmen :)</div>
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Ik werd gezocht, zo bleek, door de dopingcontrole. Niet omdat ze iets vermoedden, gewoon random, en dit keer was ik aan de beurt.</div>
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Bla bla, plassen in een potje en dat een beetje overgieten in was test-bekertjes.</div>
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We kwamen in gesprek over het klimmen. Dat het wel heel gaaf was om zo van klimmen je werk te kunnen maken en de hele wereld af te reizen. Zo veronderstelden de twee sportartsen uit Servië die de dopingcontroles doen voor de UIAA. </div>
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Ja, van klimmen je werk maken. Wat zou dat gaaf zijn, zei ik terug. Verbaasd over mijn antwoord babbelden we verder en meer en meer realiseerde ik me mijn rare positie: ik ben geen professionele klimmer. </div>
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Na wat rondvragen kwam ik er achter dat al de twaalf klimmers waar ik het over had wel professionele klimmers zijn. Zij krijgen allemaal een salaris om mee te doen aan deze wedstrijden. Een salaris om te mogen klimmen. Stel je voor! Zelfs de Russische en Tsjechische klimsters krijgen beaald. Bizar. Nog veel vreemder; het Azerbajaanse team (die standaard als laatste en een-na laatste eindigen rond plek 70) krijgen per klimmer een vergoeding van €1000 plus alle reis en inschrijfkosten vergoed. Azerbajaan. Ja, Azerbajaanse deelnemers krijgen ook betaald. </div>
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Vanuit onze verenging, NKBV, krijgen wij een vergoeding. Een paar mensen hebben hard gewerkt om dit voor elkaar te krijgen en wij zijn er erg blij mee, anders waren we hier niet geweest. Maar deze vergoeding is net voldoende voor het deels dekken van de kosten van een paar wedstrijden. Wanneer we naar Korea en Saas Fee zouden gaan zou het geld al op zijn. En dan betalen we ons eten en Dieselkosten nog zelf. </div>
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En dan blijven er nog 4 wedstrijden plus Sochi over op de lijst...</div>
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In de eindranking zal je ons dus niet terug vinden, want daar hebben we het geld niet voor. We hebben niet eens een kledingsponsor die ons van warme kleding voorziet of een materiaalsponsor die ons van ijsbijlen voorziet. En zelfs als de beste bergsport prestatie van het jaar verkozen wordt, staat er niks bij over het feit dat Dennis de Worldcup in Saas Fee won en mogen we stemmen op mensen die het bijzonder doen op het NK. Zelfs door onze eigen vereniging worden we dus vergeten.</div>
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Niet dat we het niet proberen, we hebben blog, website, Twitter, Facebook, staan in magazines zoals iPhone Magazine, ik stond in de Viva400 en in kranten. We worden opgebeld en gemaild als iemand iets over ijsklimmen wil weten en om de sport te vergoten organiseren we jaarlijks een wedstrijd, die dit jaar ruim 100 deelnemers trok!</div>
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Ja, je zal me wel een grote zeur vinden dat ik dit zo schrijf. "Je moet er zelf voor zorgen", "het komt niet vanzelf", "het is crisis, er is geen geld voor dit soort dingen", "wat zeur je nou, je kan toch meedoen in Saas Fee", "het is toch mooi dat je het allemaal zelf kan"... </div>
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Echt? En dat is het excuus? En wat nou als ik full-time kon trainen en daarmee wel op het podium kan staan...? In plaats van full-time naar een computer staren en 's avonds betaal om even te mogen klimmen in een kleine klimhal waar ik alle routes al gedaan heb. </div>
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Kan iemand mij alsjeblieft vertellen hoe ik dat in Nederland nou eindelijk eens voor elkaar kan krijgen? Alsjeblieft?</div>
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Hoe word ik 'zo professioneel'?</div>
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...en dit wil niet alleen ik.<br />
<a href="http://www.dennisvanhoek.nl/?p=1864">Lees hier Dennis visie op ijsklimmen in Nederland (in het Engels) </a></div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-39823165491025202682014-01-25T10:18:00.000+01:002014-01-30T10:36:52.607+01:00Saas Fee Finals<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"></span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">It’s Worldcup season. For a while already but I didn’t have the money to join the comps yet. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">But there was no excuse not to go the the biggest and most difficult comp of the year: Saas Fee, Swiss. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Dennis, my boyfriend won the speed discipline last year so he had to defend his title. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">I’m more interested in the new outdoor mixed spot at my new home in Germany then the worldcup comps, but I had to support Dennis, thus had to go. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">No expectations but I knew I was rather strong, despite of the lack on training in December and January. Unlucky Dennis saw more hospitals then climbing-gyms in those two months (long story) and I had to support him there. So not much climbing for me either in the last months...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">I tried to make up by running and cycling a lot in between work, hospitals and Christmas dinners and even managed to loose weight instead of gain weight. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">I also found a new tool to see how my fitness level was doing; the heart-rate belt and watch. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Trying to understand my body I was more conscious about my nutrition, rest and my new game: heart-rate monitoring. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">With all this new information we drove to Saas Fee. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Thursday evening I drew number 9. My starting number for the comp. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Nervous as always (last year I was so nervous I threw up twice when waiting for my turn in the isolation zone) I was waiting for my turn. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />I was fifth to climb, so not much time to gain nervousness. Good. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">My newly bought Grivel iceaxes felt still awkward but they worked well the last weekend so I decided to try them for the comp. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Meanwhile, waiting, listening to Rudimental to give me some relaxation and energy at the same time I watched my heart rate. Boing, boing, boing. I didn’t even had to look at my watch, the trembling hands and the active ‘boing, boing, boing’ in my dry throat said enough. 118, 121, 120, 117, 122, 123... Ah, that why I don’t have cold hands...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">For some reason it felt good to know it was not just my mind but my body too reacting on the nervousness in my head. I could kind of accept it. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">My turn to climb. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">I chalked up my hands, slid in my horserinding gloves and tied in the rope. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Here we go. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Insecure in the ice with my long iceaxes I climbed up. Further and further. But still feeling slow. The first time since more then a year that I kicked my crampons in the hard wood of the structure. The speaker said some things about Dennis, about Dennis and me. I heard a lot of “Dennis” but had no idea what was going on...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">The first time I touched the beautiful granite holds again. The first time on the worldcup again. In between all those girls who had been training and competing for months already. I felt small. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Time out! </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Oh shit. Those six minutes went fast!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">But it felt good enough for the semi’s at least. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">And it was. I was qualified 10th for the finals. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Meanwhile I understood all the “Dennis”. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />Back on the speed wall Dennis was trying to qualify for the semi’s in speedclimbing. The brittle ice broke and he cut himself rather badly in his leg with is iceaxe. He looked all pale and had a good patch of blood on his axe, gloves and trousers. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Ouch. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />But he was smiling so we all thought he was okay. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />Limping towards the structure again he climbed again. And fell. Everyone was shocked. Last years winner was out!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Within a couple hours he had to be in isolation for the leadclimbing. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">The bandage around his leg was bleeding through, making his trousers look even worse. But he wanted to try. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">He limped up to the structure, tied in and was hardly able to move his right leg. Not even able to figure of four he pulled his way up, and as his friend Malcom Kent said afterwards: “You make iceclimbing look ridiculous”. “I love you too Malc” he replied sticking his middle finger to his head. And yes it did look ridiculous, doing one arm pull-ups, having the right leg stretched out hanging into nothingness when moving up. He managed to clip some draws but didn’t get very far. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaSgL2T1o8FtG9Vbru7abwtVVch5eXKsliO9yglv2XtHlOU8kzbNdCmrvSNZsDJUb8qQUgz18GdX4Motb0j8B16OeoWzzdohBhNCYzXZRVETwUsAx4Q5yus7fdq_O_wUAoSGpJw/s1600/IMG_9298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaSgL2T1o8FtG9Vbru7abwtVVch5eXKsliO9yglv2XtHlOU8kzbNdCmrvSNZsDJUb8qQUgz18GdX4Motb0j8B16OeoWzzdohBhNCYzXZRVETwUsAx4Q5yus7fdq_O_wUAoSGpJw/s1600/IMG_9298.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;"><br style="line-height: 17px;" />Later on the day I managed to carefully climb up to a tenth place in the speed semi-finals. Not bad for a slug like me. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Next day. Semi’s on the lead comp. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">I woke up, walked down to the restaurant. Closed. All was dark and no-one answered the bell that I rung to ask when breakfast would be served. F*. No breakfast. I waited, until I really had to be in isolation. Still no-one to serve breakfast. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">They forgot, they forgot I asked for an early breakfast! The banana was the only energy I got that morning...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Need-to-climb-faster. That was the idea. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />My accept-that-I’m-nervous-listen-to-music-stay-in-the-cold-instead-of-in-the-warm-isolation-method worked before so I used it again. Oh, shit, but how do I use this axes to swing with! They’re drytooling things, nothing more then gardening tools to clean the weeds, compared to real iceaxes! On the last moment I decided to sharpen them as much as possible, making the blades super thin. And then the Russian coach Alexander Tolokonin, the husband of Maria Tolokonina (who also competed in the finals) showed me the half-way grip. That was the trick! I got it, it is possible to swing those gardening tools! Now I just needed to climb faster. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ISg4K_sDYNOkmXESMiHv4bS2_qnnUqM1GX2V-QLfFjfpP6Nk1XQLWluhW7Cc_P4Owwcja5eFJFQcx5q2pu_SBFBS8XyXFiXiKenHxv-U9I5GRjJzF8U0u6_SVVqciRFQqyEqzA/s1600/IMG_9309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ISg4K_sDYNOkmXESMiHv4bS2_qnnUqM1GX2V-QLfFjfpP6Nk1XQLWluhW7Cc_P4Owwcja5eFJFQcx5q2pu_SBFBS8XyXFiXiKenHxv-U9I5GRjJzF8U0u6_SVVqciRFQqyEqzA/s1600/IMG_9309.JPG" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="213" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Suddenly the UIAA photographer came up to me with two warm croissants, he smiled. He read my frustrated Facebook-post that morning about the missing breakfast and brought me some food! Slowly I ate half a croissant, eyes closed, enjoying the extra energy that my body needed.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmDCjoT9B8K0pPq59tKQ5xUq49sIZxCFpjlYpPibf_R5_EW7jM-N8lvckhPD-JM79vw9Uvyt83U109XRBswnn5J8WJKdKbmHD_CRXwB2zRVQY3CsTIMs4ydHB8DRQamMOr3NJfw/s1600/IMG_9313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmDCjoT9B8K0pPq59tKQ5xUq49sIZxCFpjlYpPibf_R5_EW7jM-N8lvckhPD-JM79vw9Uvyt83U109XRBswnn5J8WJKdKbmHD_CRXwB2zRVQY3CsTIMs4ydHB8DRQamMOr3NJfw/s1600/IMG_9313.JPG" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="213" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Time to climb.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Not struggling at all with the altitude (so all the running did work?) I tried to speed up, making long moves and efficiently I swung the tools in the wood. Compared to most of the girls I do have a swing as I do climb outdoor ice too, and this gave me a big advantage. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiea0-7FXfVmphvpODV3Nnp2SnaonftV6Gu6i7yisADqpLqjnjOD7Rr-iVKjf6izMKIE-NSmiN717sRLRSYmPZ3440-nZ132Mrta8dsZnpcN22C-nrKECr-qZU1vGqrebmEeZjiAg/s1600/IMG_9311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiea0-7FXfVmphvpODV3Nnp2SnaonftV6Gu6i7yisADqpLqjnjOD7Rr-iVKjf6izMKIE-NSmiN717sRLRSYmPZ3440-nZ132Mrta8dsZnpcN22C-nrKECr-qZU1vGqrebmEeZjiAg/s1600/IMG_9311.JPG" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="213" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">After my climb some of the girls fell out quite early. And this made me more and more excited. One more and I’d be in the finals... “YES!” I screamed when Russian climber Nataljia fell! Oh, thats mean I thought, I was not allowed to be that happy when someone fell... But I was happy. I reached the finals!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">The first thing Dennis said was not “well done” but “I need to see a doctor”. He didn’t look too good. His leg still bleeding a bit. And so he limped to the doctor. She saw the wound, and told him it wasn’t that good. Looking at the amount of fat tissue coming out it was all the way in, at least 5cm. She told him it will take at least three to four weeks to heal...if it doesn’t get infected. Meaning his iceclimbing season is over... (Read his story on his website here: <a href="http://www.dennisvanhoek.nl/?p=1864" style="color: #0068cf; cursor: pointer; font-weight: inherit; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank"><span style="line-height: 17px; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.dennisvanhoek.nl/?p=1864</span></a> )</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2AVPIMBmf6Cobj27jRRJThOZwvlyT0aU4IgjKXIwQ6EIHon6FE5fCN8f31znu6ffK63bnM3mcQhcFpYo5E9xfdEolP37cCLk8WwSYVc94O1eFIjVkgd8LelyO1DDJZk4SdVoo3g/s1600/IMG_9306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2AVPIMBmf6Cobj27jRRJThOZwvlyT0aU4IgjKXIwQ6EIHon6FE5fCN8f31znu6ffK63bnM3mcQhcFpYo5E9xfdEolP37cCLk8WwSYVc94O1eFIjVkgd8LelyO1DDJZk4SdVoo3g/s1600/IMG_9306.JPG" height="240" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">After a midday sleep I was ready for the final run. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />For some reason I was suddenly managing nervousness and lowered the sick-nervous feeling to a more healthy level. <br style="line-height: 17px;" />I did my regular mixed climbing warm-up: warm up my shoulders slowly, stretch a bit, get painful barfeys (so I don’t get them when doing the actual climbing) and get some more dynamic moves done. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Music on level ‘extra loud’ and ready to go. I was kind of looking forward to the climb! That was a weird feeling. For the first time on a competition I actually kind of liked it...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Tricky start... I was moving slow.... Getting a bit insecure I wasn’t able to move very fast. Even the wood that I had to swing my tools into felt harder then before... “Klimmen” Dennis shouted, “klimmen”. Climb, climb he shouted, as I ordered him. Anything else, like “don’t think about your feet” or “your axes are fine” would distract me too much. “Ten seconds!” he screamed at the end. Oh shi*. I jumped for the last move and fell off, my axe still stuck in the ice barrel where I jumped off.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3H-1PWcsE4ve2_9-mYgkDrAElBn1ZbI6zrE2vOZXowsWfzpxN6OYJf80SeoXuML_01QC5kPbIutPDNyo5tzto_tYNgK0xFr5FRsclAIu9El5wmyoIHWMrEHPcE5u4VwZqRbKSBA/s1600/IMG_9322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3H-1PWcsE4ve2_9-mYgkDrAElBn1ZbI6zrE2vOZXowsWfzpxN6OYJf80SeoXuML_01QC5kPbIutPDNyo5tzto_tYNgK0xFr5FRsclAIu9El5wmyoIHWMrEHPcE5u4VwZqRbKSBA/s1600/IMG_9322.JPG" height="179" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: 21px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9tIGFs3mCTvd2FUlb98F2MgZZM46EXyVo5KjtWfsbNnDto_t57X2APdL8TCJwN_psTg0HpsAGQyKAJZ5SiNJTOCsu1kNzhsEeaRnENphnFH9isWtmmnHGDGHEop8gH1hw1bTS8g/s1600/IMG_9310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9tIGFs3mCTvd2FUlb98F2MgZZM46EXyVo5KjtWfsbNnDto_t57X2APdL8TCJwN_psTg0HpsAGQyKAJZ5SiNJTOCsu1kNzhsEeaRnENphnFH9isWtmmnHGDGHEop8gH1hw1bTS8g/s1600/IMG_9310.JPG" height="213" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Hey, that was fun!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">And that brought me to a 7th place. Not bad :)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px;">Pictures thanks to pro-photographer Philippe Mooser, check <a href="http://www.thefirst.ch/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7925">his website thefirst.ch </a></span></div>
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:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-53643778000266531132014-01-22T15:18:00.002+01:002014-01-22T15:18:46.567+01:00IWC Saas FeeAs usual. Nervous. Already.<br />
Sigh...<br />
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But thats apparently how it works with me and competitions. The only way to solve it is, as far as I know, become just much stronger then I'd need to be to compensate for the weakness that comes with the nerves.<br />
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We missed the first two competitions; the first which was in Korea (too far away and thus too expensive) and the one in Romania (too horrible, after the food poisoning, hotel, train and safety issues I'd never go there again)<br />
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This weekend Dennis and I will be at Saas Fee. The comp where Dennis did his awesome speed run. Best timing and performance ever :)<br />
He's not feeling too good lately but we have been active in training. Hopefully it will be good enough for him to get the awesomeness again, but you know... Iceclimbing is always quite a gamble. One zip and you're out...<br />
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I won't be expecting much of the speed climbing for myself but hopefully my strength will be sufficient to reach the lead finals this year.<br />
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All the results can be found here: <a href="http://www.iceclimbingworldcup.org/">iceclimbingworldcup.org</a><br />
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And the whole comp will be live on Swiss tv here: <a href="http://iceclimbingworldcup.ch/">iceclimbingworldcup.ch</a><br />
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<br />:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29894862.post-545155082492251862014-01-22T09:18:00.000+01:002014-01-22T09:18:28.624+01:00Dry Ice tools<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
I am an iceclimber. Or more just climber. I climb everything. Buildings and industrial structures for work, bouldering for strength and social fun, routes because I love that, Alpine because I sometimes like to suffer and mixed because I love the technical awkward leverages you do with those sharp tool thingies. Oh, yes and I happen to climb comps too. Worldcups and stuff like that. Way too nervous to do anything good in there but still fun. </div>
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For 1,5 months I've been living in Germany now. At the edge of the Alps in the region Allgäu.</div>
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I'm originally Dutch. In the flat country where I was born we only have climbing gyms. No rocks, not even small ones, not even ones small enough to trip over. Really. The Netherlands is just all sand, mud and water. </div>
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That makes it all pretty hard to train for iceclimbing. We only have horizontal ice. Probably the reason Dutch are rather good in speed skating. </div>
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The chance to move to Germany was amazing! </div>
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Dennis, my boyfriend, is writing his final paper for his studies in Industrial Design at a climbing gear company. That company is based in Southern Germany. </div>
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Being without my boyfriend for longer then a month just doesn't work. </div>
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I gave up all I had, even the fridge, couch, my house and my job. And moved in with Dennis. </div>
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I didn't have a new job yet...</div>
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Luckily the gear company Dennis now works for was super sweet and offered me a job too! Yay!</div>
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And meanwhile we climbed. </div>
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Almost every day. </div>
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My regular training day now goes like this:</div>
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Wake up > eat a banana > run to work (8km) > shower > eat breakfast and work > go bouldering during lunch time > eat lunch when working > work till late and drive back with colleagues or with Dennis > eat some food > cycle to the climbinggym > climb till 10 > cycle back > sleep.</div>
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But we also have weekends. That are days that we're not supposed to work. But the company I now work for has such a super nice atmosphere that we're even willing to climb with them in the weekends. </div>
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Last weekend ánd this weekend we found ourselves on Saturday in Starzlachklamm, a dark, wet, sketchy cave that just calls for drytooling. Coffee, climbing and more. A perfect way to spent a weekend. On the Sundays we went sportsclimbing. Outdoors. </div>
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So awkward that you can just go outdoors whenever you want. We don't have that back home. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHVX02qr9nqJ_AYbym71zqFs4lGtdXBM558RtuLcYyLTL876L6MpiaZRCWDv-MmUT2-usCxX550yQDdqXqv8j0XTY6LWWeh-4MmqLGcbi3jX7AOXnzQALBMmnCQpKgJQhDVPYXg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-22+at+9.11.58+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHVX02qr9nqJ_AYbym71zqFs4lGtdXBM558RtuLcYyLTL876L6MpiaZRCWDv-MmUT2-usCxX550yQDdqXqv8j0XTY6LWWeh-4MmqLGcbi3jX7AOXnzQALBMmnCQpKgJQhDVPYXg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-22+at+9.11.58+AM.png" height="247" width="320" /></a></div>
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During the weekdays it was already dark when we got back home. It made no sense to climb outdoors then. </div>
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The good alternative for iceclimbing are the DryIce tools. And I'm one of the lucky ones that got a pair!</div>
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I already used them a couple times in the Dutch gyms. There people looked at me like I was crazy and playing a dangerous game with those things. They gave the regular non-iceclimber comments: "oh, thats so easy, you're just holing on to this big grip all the time" or "now you've got so much more reach, that makes climbing just so easy now". </div>
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Right. Just try it.</div>
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Here in Germany the voices are surprisingly different!</div>
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The first time when we pulled out the tools people stopped climbing to watch us. </div>
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They wondered what this strange stuff was and understood immediately that we were serious about the Winter season. </div>
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Within the time that I now live here two other climbers tried to make replica's and we're starting to have rather fun group tooling sessions in the boulder room (wow, that last bit of this sentence sounds weird when you're a non-climber).</div>
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And now I can say a couple things about the tools too:</div>
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Dennis has a different brand for his "dryice tools". And we got yet another pair from a Scottish friend. We can clearly say the rubber sling on the DryIce tools gives by far a better grip on the holds compared to the other two brands that we've tried. Also the handles are shaped differently. More comfortable and more realistic, closer to the design of the iceclimbing tools that we use on the comps. It can still have a little tweaking though. We think the upper grip of the tools can be made a little more comfortable by lengthening the pink-rest on the upper grip.</div>
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We easily make figure-of-fours and even long reachy swing moves with the tools. Our heavy 100+ kg friend Axel climbed with them as well and even he could easily swing around in the roof. Proving that the things are pretty strong. </div>
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When lead-climbing we use 'spinner leashes'. We want to keep the possibility of climbing with the tools. When one would accidentally drop on a climber or belayer we'd be screwed...</div>
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In the Netherlands all the gyms are just toprope, we'd still use leashes then. </div>
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A tricky thing when leading with tools is that you can pop off when clipping. And then you're hanging in your spinner leash... So. When you clip: one tool in your thumb, of the hand that you hold on to the other tool (see picture). The other hand is then free to clip and when you now accidentally would fall you'd just hang in mid-air. </div>
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So far the holds are not getting 'greasy'. I'm not using gloves and when my hands get sweaty I even chalk. In this way I grow thicker skin, which is useful for the long Winter routes. </div>
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Negative thing of climbing with the tools is always that you can't really train precision as well as with real tools on real holds. You never have the same sketchy tricky moves on which you need 200% body tension. </div>
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For that stuff we have to go outdoors and do the real stuff. </div>
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Also speedclimbing, Dennis won a worldcup in that discipline last year, is hard to train with the tools. You're not as free as on real ice (of course) and are limited to the holds on the wall. Though, regular tools won't do any better on an indoor climbing wall. </div>
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It's kind of funny how different it is to climb with tools. I can climb with my hands hard sports routes in the Summer, but then on the start of the Winter season I really need to build up a different kind of strength again. The muscles that I need for the iceclimbing are different from the ones I need for sportsclimbing (there is a big overlap though). </div>
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Being able to climb more with something that simulates ice tools is for that reason super useful. Useful for any iceclimber. </div>
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Now that I figured (of figure-of-foured) the pro's and con's of the tools it's time to head out again. </div>
:)http://www.blogger.com/profile/04684766189072551757noreply@blogger.com0