Saturday, October 13, 2012

The Black

Ze Black.

The Canyon is Black, making it an area that (even if you don't know anything about climbing) could scare you by looking down in it.
The poison Ivy, bears and loose rock in the SOB* gully doesn't make it sound any better.
*SOB Gully: the 'path' you walk down to get to the start of the routes, SOB stands for 'son of a bitch'.

This area is our base for this weeks.
Training Alpine style climbing together with one of the greatest teachers I've ever had.

In my climbing I've always had many questions. "Is this okay what I do?" In all subjects; from nutrition to speed, efficiency, safety and all kinds of mental and physical things.
These weeks (and the coming years) I suddenly get the opportunity to challenge myself and learn to become the Alpinist of my dreams.

Unfortunately I'd not been feeling very well (having a cold...) so I didn't climb too much yet.
And today it's raining (yay...)

Hopefully more adventure in the upcoming days :)

Friday, October 12, 2012

Indian Creek

Indian Creek
a.k.a "Mama...*"
* hurts
* ....this is scary
*'s so hot here
* ....water, water, wat....

After a week of mental and physical challenging try-outs for the Alpine Mentor Programme I had a couple 'restdays'. Buster and I decided to spent these days in trad Sandstone area Indian Creek.
Indian Creek is a rare and special place located in the desert in Utah.
It's like you'd expect in a desert: dry, dusty and hot during the day and freezing nights.
At the local bivy/campsite we warmed ourselves at the campfire (thanks Steven).
On te day Buster was my personal crack climbing teacher.
He took me on a 5.10, a level I'd easily climb on French Limestone. Here I had no idea how to get my hands right inside the rock and even figured a head-jam was easier sometimes...
After a while I got a 'hand' of it and was proud to flash 5.11's!
Six routes on a day was my maximum for the first day. Bruises on my hands, forearms and up to my shoulders...
After a good night sleep in the dust and a real American breakfast I was ready for another day.
Proud to struggle my way up on 5.11+ and what looked like a 5.9 but turned out to be 5.10+...
Yet another amazing climbing day!
Now looking back on two amazing and intense climbing days. I'll never forget my first days in Indian Creek. When shall we go again? :)
Today we took a shower in Moab and drive on to the Black Canyon for four days of multipitch climbing with the Alpine Mentor Team in the Black Canyon.

Wednesday, October 03, 2012

Hooray at Ouray

This week the Alpine Mentor Programme started.

We started on Monday, all excited to actually meet Steve and even climb together :)

@ Bivouac
Summer drytooling :)
Drytooling @Vail
Oh Deer!
Getting ready for the Yodel Arete
Yodeling up the arete :)
Scrambling at the top
Our first day was kind of easy, sportsclimbing in the sun, to too alpine-ish. But good to get to know each other.
Today was more demanding. The climbed/scrambled the Yodel Arete on the Ophir wall.
The route looks quite easy but it's a challenge getting up there with a group of 8 all leaders and used to be in charge :)

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