Monday, September 27, 2010

Trad climbing meeting in Italy pt. 2


We woke up just before 8. The alarm kept on ringing. We looked at each other and shook our head.
Mika, the Latvian guy sleeping in the same apartment (the opposite bed) slept...he just slept on...through his alarm.
We took our cutlery, plate and went down.
As Paul was a bit more injured then he said, he wanted to take a 'relax' day. So Markus and Paul swopped groups.

We were scheduled for the sector Caporal. A big wall with more then just a scent of Yosemite...
Lucy, Roberto, Markus and me would climb a 7c+ multipitch. We divided again in two groups. Markus and me, Roberto and Lucy. After the first to pitches of Crazy Horse as warm-up, we decided we'd go further in Crazy Horse whilst Lucy and Roberto went for the harder 7c+.
In the 7b I really started feeling my wrist again. Annoying...sometimes I'm just strong and can do any move whatever I want and sometimes it just hurts...

Markus and Roberto discussing what route to climb on the top of the 2nd pitch of Crazy Horse

So Markus went up and realised after almost pulling out a big piece of rock, that the aid-part really was just for aiding. After me seconding the route we both concluded that this was even harder then 9a... I went up, and down again in the next pitch and got nicely demotivated by all the bird-shit in that pitch...So, we decided to get into something else. Diedro Nachos maybe?
Impressive, impressive, interesting, scary (when I didn't have a no.6, was clipped in on some rusty piton and later when my no. 4 got overcammed and I still had quite some meters to go...)

Me in the scary 6b layback at the top of Diedro Nachos

What an adventure. But, we were way too late. We guessed it was already around 7 and had to abseil and walk back. But then, when we were half way down the path Mauro walked up. He was a bit worried and drove all the way to pick us up. Too kind!

Caporal again, on Wednesday

As the groups were still similar. We decided to climb together today. Dennis and me swopped groups and later Roberto and Markus joined as groups of 5 sound unhandy.
We'd try to climb the first free repeat of Tempi Duri/Strapiombi delle Visioni (6c+, 6a, 7a, 7a, 7b).

Markus in the first pitch of Tempi Duri

Roberto and I went up together and before us Markus and Dennis climbed up. As we were with four it went all pretty slow... In the second pitch (the first chimney I ever climbed) I was a bit in a hurry and forgot to lengthen my placements. Resulting in way too much ropedrag. So I made a belay in the middle :( Ashamed of my unhandy action I had Roberto climbing up after me and finishing chimney.

Roberto leading the 7a in Tempi Duri

Dennis was calling if I had a no. 6 and 5 with me. Apparently they were needed in the next pitch. When I was up I gave them to Dennis and understood why they were needed: a big crack with quite some loose crumbly rock.
Markus went first, I was last.
Then another tricky pitch with a bit of slab.
And then, the last pitch. A difficult to protect 7b...
Markus was a bit demotivated: we were slow, he didn't climb too much and just, well, just didn't had 'his day'. So Dennis and Markus went back. Roberto and me went for the last pitch.
And actually, when I was relieved Roberto didn't fall off (and would have ripped out all the old pitons) I seconded the route. It was easier then I thought. Oh, if this is 7b, then I can climb much more on trad!
Today we were back in time and had an amazing dinner again.
In the night we had a slideshow from Rolando Larcher of an area that really inspired me: Patagonia!

Announcement of the Pata slideshow

It was amazing, impressive, to see the three climbers in ‘an ocean of granite’ as Mauro poetically said. With my mouth open, holding in my breath, not even blinking with my eyes, I watched the movie. For me it looked like love, and I didn’t have goosebumps, but little butterflies in my stomach by the view and the imagination of me doing this kind of climbing as well!

More Pictures on my Picasa

Patagonia presentation

Trad climbing meeting in Italy pt. 1

On the way to the airport


Normally I try to write something every week, at least, that is when things are going on.
But I had no internet at all last week. So, I have to write quite a bit now, I guess.
Because I went climbing :)
Not just climbing, I went to Italy, the tradclimbing meeting in Valle dell'Orco.
I'm not a very experienced trad climber, actually I'm just starting, I find. So this was a good opportunity to see what's actually possible.
I was hoping to find new techniques, new areas and new friends. And that's exactly what happened!

Eindhoven - Ceresole Reale

On Sunday 19th I left for Italy. Quite stressed and worried. We had a bit of overweight and we were flying with Ryanair so we were only allowed to take 15kgs. Just a rope and one set of cams+wires is enough for 15kg. We stuffed the tiny bit of clothing we had in our day-pack and went to the airport.
In the flight I was sitting in between father and daughter. They were going to a big shoe-fair. To see the shoes for the new year. I love shoes, but it always turns out that I wear my climbing shoes or running shoes :)
When we arrived Angelo was waiting for us with a paper "Tradclimbing Meeting Valle dell'Ocro". He excused himself for his English, we stuffed our bags in his Ford and drove to Ceresole Reale. Which is a 3hour drive!
There we were welcomed by all kinds of Italians. They looked all the same: pretty or old and all had black hair. The only name I remembered was Mauro, the one of the e-mail contact.
We got a big bag with a backpack, some Ferrino advertisement stuff, and the brand new topo of the area.
And then, it was time for dinner. Real Italian dinner with lasagna, meat, and of course wine.

The group enjoying dinner

Climbing at Sergent

At around 8 'o clock we arrived in de 'salle' of the appartment-building. We slept quite weird as our blanket had some strange creatures inside and they were really itchy. (Even through my sheets).
We were separated in different groups. I was supposed to climb the route Canabis in the sector Sergent together with Paul Sass from Germany, Lucy Creamer from the UK and Roberto Vigiani our local guide/host. Roberto would arrive a little later so we started in some warm-ups and got ready for Canabis (7b, 6b+, 7a).

Paul Sass in Canabis

Paul went up first and had quite a hard time in the first section. A tiny crack with some pitons. What a thing! It looked hard...
He tried, tried, went for a hold just above a piton and fell, the piton ripped out and he made a hard smack upside down!
That worried me...
Paul was ok, he was even ok enough to belay Lucy on Canabis again.
So, when Roberto arrived we split up in two teams. We first went up a 6a trad, bolted line and then decided to get on Canabis as well.
Roberto basically flew through the first pitch after I bailed out because I found it taking too much time...
The second pitch I was a typical flying Dutchman when I slipped in the 6b+ traverse. Luckily the piton held. Roberto was 'sleeping' a bit, resulting in me 'flying' down :)
The third pitch was a 7a crack. A bit nervous, as I'd never climbed a proper 7a crack before. I didn't climb it in once...and had not enough time to try the whole thing again. Reason one to get back here :)

Roberto Vigiani in Canabis, Zoe Hart belaying

Me in Canabis

Saturday, September 25, 2010

back in Holland

Just back from the tradclimbing meeting in Valle dell'Orco (Italy).
Soon more about the adventure :)
Picture: me & Markus from Germany on top of the cliff after climbing Diedro Nanchez.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Trad climbing meeting in Italy

Packing...and it's limited to one set of cams some nuts, maybe pegs a rope and a sweater. As Ryanair doesn't allow us to take our regular gear due to weight restrictions (annoying!)
Tomorrow we (Dennis & me) will travel to Italy for the International Tradclimbing meeting.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

New Nomics

Earlier today I posted something about some Pr0n.
But, my real babies arrived today @ Demmenie from Alpitec/Petzl.

With my babies I mean my new Nomics (for the rookies: ice axes)
And gosh I'm happy with them! They're beautiful, precise, strong and...renewed.
These are finally more alpine style. Good for dry, mixed, ice and alpine lines. With such versatile axes, you can just have one pair, instead of 1. 2. 3. 4.... Which basically means: climbing gets cheaper :)

You can change the pick for dry/mixed or ice lines, put a hammer or adze on the top and for the oldies: they still have the attachment point for your leashes. That just sounds like adding lingerie and jewellery to a beautiful girl: makes it just perfect.

As I'm working in Rock Steady now, I had the chance the test my axes in real...
wood. See pics: I was hopping and running around everywhere looking for the perfect placements. And I even got myself a whole wall! I can use the wall as I want, slam the axes in, use crampons, and I don't need a belayer, as it's just a long boulder (see 1st pic) :) (Thanks Robbert!) and Rock Steady even had a wood wall. What more do you need as iceclimber in a flat country?!

New cam

Went to Demmenie Amsterdam (=shop) and bought myself a new toy.
It's like going to the sex-shop (or something) because this toy is real Pr0n!