Saturday, February 27, 2010

Knitting

Went to Kandersteg and didn't climb.
But still had loads of fun :)
Knitted a hat for Erik and Dennis.


Friday, February 19, 2010

Bright yellow isn't ugly


Now, after the brilliant idea of having a vote on the new color of my cast, I failed completely.
There was only ugly dark-blue, no orange, only dark red and dark green (which would make me look like a Christmas tree), pink, but I already had pink. Purple, but I already had purple, black, but they said it wouldn't look good and then yellow.
So it was yellow, with the idea of making it a different color as fast as possible. Just make a nice pattern with some nice colors.
I'll need some help with that I think, any volunteers/ideas?
The pictures are taken by my nervous mum. She found it all a bit scary and even forgot how the camera works (just press the big button)

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Left handed


With two weeks and a bit of a cast around my right arm, I get really good with my left hand.
Wiping my ass is not a big deal anymore.
But also writing and even drawing. Here my first left handed drawing...still looks like a children's drawing, but try it, if you dare.
It's a gift for my grandmother, she's got her 90th birthday today (what an age!)

The new cast...tomorrow

Tomorrow I'll get a new cast around my arm.
The one I have stinks like toes which haven't had a shower for weeks! I desperately try to clean my hands the whole day, but it's under the plaster, this smell.
So time for some new. But...what color?
You can help me choose.
Fill in the poll!

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Video's

Editing is boring, sitting behind a computer for the whole day is boring too.
But, at least I can do something. I can already type with two hands again.
I can't wait to climb again! My body (and mind) is just not made for sitting all day.
Here the first versions of the video's. Not finished yet, way too long, have to change some texts and...add in music. But at least there's something to watch.
Enjoy and comment (please)
*why doesn't it want to embed?...ok, here just the link...*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfKSSgxRKCQ

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Results and missions


After all the bad luck of the last weeks, finally some fun news.

The Worldcup season is over, and the results are out.
I missed the Worldcup in Romania (should have gone there instead of breaking my arm) and climbed in total 3 competitions: Daone (It), Saas Fee (CH) and the competition in Rabenstein (It, which doesn't count for as WC).
Overall I landed in 10th place on Speed, and 18th on lead (one time 14th, one time 12th)
For all the results, see the UIAA homepage.
I'm satisfied with my results, but know I could have done better with more and longer specific training. I got pumped really easy, climbed too slow and didn't have enough strength in my hands to keep on holding the axes in figure of 4's/9's when being very pumped.
But I also know I can train that.
The only thing I whish/hope I could have I somebody to help me/guide me in this training and somebody to train with. (Any volunteers out there?)

In between the comps I climbed an unknown WI5(+?) in Daone, climbed Pink Panther M9+ in Kandersteg (CH), climbed a waterfall WI4+ close to Saas Fee (Tim, Corne, do you remember the name?) and climbed half of a waterfall (Dennis went on lead), WI5/M6 2nd go in a valley close to Arco, tried Captain Hook M11 in Ever Dry (Arco) and then some easy warm-ups in Kiental.
Not so much, as we spent most time on competitions.
For the next year I'd like to stay in the Alps longer (which was the plan until I broke my arm) and get more experience in Mixed climbing.

My goals are to climb M10, 8a, 7a+ trad, the unclimbed route on Thumall (Iceland), climb Chocolat Chaud (M10) and open a new M10 in Iceland, get more experienced in alpine climbing and get into the finals in lead and speed iceclimbing Worldcups in 2010/2011.
I'm wondering if my goals are high, maybe too high or maybe too low?
At least I know I'll need to train really hard.
At the moment I'm extremely motivated to train, make my climbing into my profession and give up things which block my progression.

Ah, there is the word: 'Progression'. It reminds me of the movie progression, in which the world best climbers try to bring the sports to a higher level.
My feelings go more and more in the direction of being an different climber then just a sportsclimber, just a boulderer or just an alpinist. I don't feel like 'a sportsclimber'. It doesn't feel natural just hanging on boulders in Cresciano when you see all those mountains around you. Though, it also doesn't feel natural just doing iceclimbing when there are all those granit walls around. Maybe that's the beauty of climbing for me, climbing is not just one movement. It's the variability and the way you have to adapt to the rock. Adapt with your mind, your body, your axes or hands...

Actually, explaining what climbing is for me, is impossible.
It's just like love, how do you explain that? (Yes, Valentine's daywas yesterday)

For now I just wait until I can climb again. In April I'll be in the rocks again. I hope I'll have enough time, money and support to train for my goals :)

Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Broken arm part 2





Finally home...
I left Chamonix last Saturday for a 2hour taxi drive to the airport of Chambery.
There it was total chaos due to the snow fall, cancelled flights and stuff. But at the information desk they took me straight to some waiting room. Relaxed sitting with a cup of tea with the other cripled. Now checks for my luggage, no passport check...(Imagine what I could have smuggled with that broken arm!)
Of course we started talking: how did you brake your shoulder/hip/back/neck/arm/leg?
That was the fun part for me. Roeland and I already guessed: the blue piste (maybe they should close that blue piste down...so many accidents on blue ski pistes). They all (more then ten) had the same excuse and said "but I didn't even go very fast".
I decided not to tell them my story, I felt most were too stupid to understand anyway.
We flew to Antwerp (Belgium). Weird to sit between 16 cripled complaining that their leg/back/neck/shoulder hurts.
I really wanted to take pictures, but even my mobile phone had to be off, too bad!
In Antwerp I got a special ambulance (why?) to bring me all the way to Muiden, where my parents and brother live (15km. from Amsterdam).
The driver had as family name 'van Steen', almost the same as mine. So conversation started easily. And with such a long drive you can talk about a lot of things. I know all about his life as medic in Africa, that he's aldready 69 years and as old man he of course had to talk about my future and boyfriend issues. He gave me some good (old fashioned crap) advices.
My parents and brother were happy to see me, almost happy that I broke my arm, as I normally never get home.
This Monday I had to get to the hospital again. New X-Rays and a good look at my arm. In Thun (CH) they wanted to operate, put a plate in my arm and cut off some muscle. That sounded like my worst nightmare and the last days I kept on dreaming about that. Waking up, thinking I'd never be able to climb again.
So, I was quite nervous when I got there. But prepared. I had loads of time to surf the net for expiriences, advices and more about broken arms.
And again, then doctor said they were concidering operation. I started to doubt my (and his) knowlegde and asked if he could discuss the situation with his colleagues. Some more waiting, X-Rays and waiting later, he decided not to operate and give me some new plaster for 4 weeks, later the 4 weeks even changed to 3 weeks.
But he was very serious: no climbing, not even the first weeks after the plaster is removed.
He was a bit rude and told me this things happen in dangerous sports. It made me hate the medical system even more. Couldn't he express a bit of understanding?
When I asked for a checkup for my tendons, just to be sure it was only a broken bone, he refused.
After all medical failures/issues (almost 10 years of regular acute Appendicitis and an allergy for female hormone shit) I've had in the past, I'm still worried...
But at least no metal in my arms, only some hard pink plaster (read: plastic) around it for 3 more weeks.
The only metal I get on my arms will be an iceaxe! (Or machine gun like in Planet Terror)
Now I can finally start studing (when I get my books and laptop) and meanwhile I'll do some other things like learning Morse-code, how to edit movies, how cut an apple with your feet and learn to write and wank with left. video

Wednesday, February 03, 2010

Broken arm





After Rabenstein Dennis had to go home so I had to get myself a new belaybitch.
Roeland [van Oss] called Dennis if he liked to climb in Kandersteg...so here I am in Kandersteg.
I went by train from Z├╝rich to Kandersteg and stay in the scout centre. Nice place b.t.w.
Roeland and me decided to get to Kiental, not too difficult but long routes.
There was loads of ice, and nice calm weather.
We warmed up on some easy short routes, unnamed and unmarked.
And then we got onto the marked routes. It all looked a bit vague bolted but fine.
I wanted to get M8 onsight, so I went up first.
The bolts in the start were a bit weirdly placed, causing ropedrag and me having to place a screw.
The rock is quite loose, so I tried to place my axes secure every move. Avoiding to get pumped.
It went all easy, solid except of the time it took to find the right holds.
The big ice-curtains in the route were exciting and sometimes challenging thin.
The last bolt before the big ice at the top was strangely placed. I had to traverse some meters to the right to get straight under the big ice. The ice I stood on was thin and the crack I torqueing was small. I thought already, "don't pop", carefully moving over my axe.
And then the axe popped!
I screamed "nee", the rope got stuck on the ice left under me, hit the icecurtain, and smacked hard into the wall!
I felt a bit dizzy in my head and my hip, leg and my hand hurt! Roeland asked if I was o.k., I told him I needed a bit of time to recover.
The pain my my leg and hip went, my helmet didn't feel like it was broken, now waiting for my arm to recover. For a moment I thought, shit, now I have to climb up again, oh, I'll finish the route now and then get onto the route next route. This felt easy so M9 os should also be possible.
But the pain stayed, and stayed...So I asked Roeland to get me down.
We decided to get the draws back, Roeland went up on toprope. And took out all my precious draws.
Later we walked to the car because I decided it all hurt a lot and that I would need a little check-up...Probably sprained I thought...
We drove to the hospital in Thun, but...not before we got the car started!
Roeland accidentally forgot to switch off the lights. Damn! So we pushed, pushed an pushed till the thing started.
In the hospital it all went pretty easy. Loads of waiting of course, but that was fine.
They took pictures and it all looked suddenly a lot worse then I was hoping for... Broken.
I saw the photo's and it was all quite obvious...
The doctor discussed some things came back and said it had to be operated. He suggested to put a plate in my arm and it had to be set in place. Therefore they had to cut off half of a muscle. I almost got in tears. Cutting things is bad bad. So I asked for a specialist. Finally they decided to try to put all in place without any operation.
Hopefully it worked...
They had some weird things on my fingers which they called 'women catchers'. And a weight on my arm, trying to pull it all apart and move it a bit.
I didn't even get any pain killers. The pain was there, but I could deal with it :)
Masochist...
They put some synthetic plaster, purple, cut it open again for the swelling and taped some white over it. Some more pictures, which I all got on CD for back home and then I was set...
In less then 6 days I have to get a check-up again. Hopefully it will all be perfectly set and no operations needed!
Afterwards we got to the Mac, took in more then 1800 Calories (and icecream) and went back to the Scout Centre in Kandersteg...
In the night I got nightmares of never climbing again, getting really fat and injure my fingers...
I now just hope I can climb again in six weeks...or less? And then get ready for next year's mixed/ice/worldcup season! M10 has to wait for a while now... And that all for an easy M8 os attempt...
I'm now in Chamonix with Roeland. He lives here (lucky him!) and I arranged to get back to Holland this Saturday with the 'plaster flight', a special flight from the alps to get all people with severe skiing injuries back home...I'll feel so stupid between those oldies with broken hips!
I'll put some pictures later when I have a better connection...

Rabenstein


It's so hard sometimes to find an internet connection when you're on the road. Luckily I'm a bit of a nerd and learn how to hack things (ooooh!)
Thus. Rabenstein.
I was really motivated, what a wall! Full of ice, finally a real iceclimbing comp! I couldn't wait to get my axes in that ice.
Only six girls were competing, of which three really good ones. Three Russians, Angelika Rainer and an Italian girl. Four would get into the finals, so I was a bit nervous. Actually quite a bit...
So I climbed and went too slow, got pumped, couldn't get into proper figure-of-four's because I couldn't hold onto my axes anymore and...fell. It wasn't even a hard route!
Also the waiting in the isolation without the possibility to warm up didn't really help.
I was so disappointed! Also because I knew the girl who made it on fourth place was just a Russian speed-climber. Not a real iceclimber at all!
The next day I saw them climbing, I really had the feeling I belonged the too, in the finals. Even the speed in the evening didn't go too well. Though, it was such an impressive wall! 26m long!
I fell in the start, so had a bad time. But...to think positive: I became second...there were only two girls competing, in the mens category. (Oh, yes, no pictures from me...some camera-camera-man failure...)
Though, my good friend Dennis was impressive on the lead! He reached the finals and became 7th. With his length and drytooling experience he got really far. You can read his story on his website .
On speed he expected to do more. He made quite some mistakes, and could do better...next year?
For me definitely next year better. Training hard and loads? Gosh, wish it was my job to climb!