Wednesday, February 03, 2010
After Rabenstein Dennis had to go home so I had to get myself a new belaybitch.
Roeland [van Oss] called Dennis if he liked to climb in Kandersteg...so here I am in Kandersteg.
I went by train from Zürich to Kandersteg and stay in the scout centre. Nice place b.t.w.
Roeland and me decided to get to Kiental, not too difficult but long routes.
There was loads of ice, and nice calm weather.
We warmed up on some easy short routes, unnamed and unmarked.
And then we got onto the marked routes. It all looked a bit vague bolted but fine.
I wanted to get M8 onsight, so I went up first.
The bolts in the start were a bit weirdly placed, causing ropedrag and me having to place a screw.
The rock is quite loose, so I tried to place my axes secure every move. Avoiding to get pumped.
It went all easy, solid except of the time it took to find the right holds.
The big ice-curtains in the route were exciting and sometimes challenging thin.
The last bolt before the big ice at the top was strangely placed. I had to traverse some meters to the right to get straight under the big ice. The ice I stood on was thin and the crack I torqueing was small. I thought already, "don't pop", carefully moving over my axe.
And then the axe popped!
I screamed "nee", the rope got stuck on the ice left under me, hit the icecurtain, and smacked hard into the wall!
I felt a bit dizzy in my head and my hip, leg and my hand hurt! Roeland asked if I was o.k., I told him I needed a bit of time to recover.
The pain my my leg and hip went, my helmet didn't feel like it was broken, now waiting for my arm to recover. For a moment I thought, shit, now I have to climb up again, oh, I'll finish the route now and then get onto the route next route. This felt easy so M9 os should also be possible.
But the pain stayed, and stayed...So I asked Roeland to get me down.
We decided to get the draws back, Roeland went up on toprope. And took out all my precious draws.
Later we walked to the car because I decided it all hurt a lot and that I would need a little check-up...Probably sprained I thought...
We drove to the hospital in Thun, but...not before we got the car started!
Roeland accidentally forgot to switch off the lights. Damn! So we pushed, pushed an pushed till the thing started.
In the hospital it all went pretty easy. Loads of waiting of course, but that was fine.
They took pictures and it all looked suddenly a lot worse then I was hoping for... Broken.
I saw the photo's and it was all quite obvious...
The doctor discussed some things came back and said it had to be operated. He suggested to put a plate in my arm and it had to be set in place. Therefore they had to cut off half of a muscle. I almost got in tears. Cutting things is bad bad. So I asked for a specialist. Finally they decided to try to put all in place without any operation.
Hopefully it worked...
They had some weird things on my fingers which they called 'women catchers'. And a weight on my arm, trying to pull it all apart and move it a bit.
I didn't even get any pain killers. The pain was there, but I could deal with it :)
They put some synthetic plaster, purple, cut it open again for the swelling and taped some white over it. Some more pictures, which I all got on CD for back home and then I was set...
In less then 6 days I have to get a check-up again. Hopefully it will all be perfectly set and no operations needed!
Afterwards we got to the Mac, took in more then 1800 Calories (and icecream) and went back to the Scout Centre in Kandersteg...
In the night I got nightmares of never climbing again, getting really fat and injure my fingers...
I now just hope I can climb again in six weeks...or less? And then get ready for next year's mixed/ice/worldcup season! M10 has to wait for a while now... And that all for an easy M8 os attempt...
I'm now in Chamonix with Roeland. He lives here (lucky him!) and I arranged to get back to Holland this Saturday with the 'plaster flight', a special flight from the alps to get all people with severe skiing injuries back home...I'll feel so stupid between those oldies with broken hips!
I'll put some pictures later when I have a better connection...