Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Daone Comp 2010
Gosh, it has been some days since the last post here. I haven't had internet closeby and the internet is quite slow...
Daone was so much fun, partying with the Russians (crazy Vodka!), speedclimbing and leadclimbing which was so impressive and motivating.
The day started with the dudes doing their lead climbing. Corne did his best but didn't end up very high. Jurgen tried really hard to fix the undercling, but also fell off pretty early in the route.
Dennis had a different qualification route, and climbed easily through the first drytooling part and had a big struggle in the ice roof. He fell popping off with his feet and handing just on one axe, out of energy, power to get on. But out of all of us he did best!
Later came the speed for me. I failed (I found). I was slow, not used to the snowy crumbly ice and kept popping off with my feet. I didn't want to fall so climbed slow, resulting in a 9th place. No finals for me.
Later around three I got in the isolation for the semi-finals lead climbing. I warmed up well, talked a lot with the other girls and guys and felt pretty ok, not too nervous.
When I got in the isolation where you prepare your stuff, the light and heating went down. So it got quite cold and dark. Not the best seconds before a attempt. But I still felt fine.
I struggled in the route, not yet used to kicking my crampons in the wood and matching iceaxes on one hand and clipping. I got pretty pumped, not so much in my underarms, but more in my hands! When I started on the roof I was so pumped in my hands that I fell off, leaving my axes in the ice.
My mission was to reach at least the roof and get to the rest, but just before the good rest I fell off. Too bad, but not too bad :) I landed in 14th place, which wasn't even last place!
The good thing was, that I gained so much experience and motivation to train hard and loads for the next competition year!
In the evening we had the disaster climbing of the dudes in the speed.
Corne fell. So was out :( Then Jurgen had to climb. He was pretty promising when we trained in the Globe in Holland. So I was really hoping the best for him. But he hit his arm with his iceaxe (meat-hook) Had to quit, get to first aid and get some stitches in his arm. Damn...
The next day we amazed us about some Korean climber and of course Markus Bendler both dominating the field. And then we drove off to Kandersteg in Swiss.
We dropped off Jurgen at the airport, because with his arm he wouldn't be able to climb on.
It was painful to leave him there. We were just starting to form a team, and with a three it's always different then with a team of four.
Jurgen, we miss you here!