Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Swiss sportsclimbing

We bailed out of Val di Mello.
Why? Rain and snow...
We drove down and guessed trad and Alpine climbing would be over for the next week(s).
But suddenly the Swiss forecast changed and we 'ran' to Bondo. Once in Bondo it rained, Piz Badile covered in clouds and when we called the hut they told us it was all wet and snowy :(
So we drove on and found a little sportsclimbing crag. (Plaun da Lej) Not too bad we thought, and could easily spent some days on the sharp, rough limestone there.
The routes can be compared to climbing in Freyr (Belgium) but all is still rough and feels 'fresh' on your fingers.
We felt strong and found it funny step into the hardest route of the area 'Antrax' an short 8a with a boulder in the start.
We were quite fast figuring all the moves except from the start. So we guessed the start must be hard. And it was. Looking, feeling, looking again, insecure...I sort of found a way to do it. Wasn't sure yet and had to put my 'engine' on full power to stick the moves. Did it on toprope and just actually did it. All in once. Hûh, all in once, 8a? I had to get on lead, straight away. Dennis tried first, found it hard too... I pulled out the rope, got on the moves and stuck it again! But, after the crux I slipped away and fell. Shit, almost did it, stupid feet!
And again, I went into the route and finally did it. Even crossed over with my wrong hand after the crux but could fix it easily and climbed easy on to the top.
8a, finally! Dennis climbed it as well, his first 8a!
Too bad we don't have any proper pictures of the ascents. It's quite hard to belay and photograph at the same time...
For two days more we climbed there tried some more beautiful and/or hard routes and finally figured our fingers were too tired to hold on. Today is restday day, we both feel our fingers, arms, shoulders and I even feel the muscles in my chest and tummy :)
Hopefully the weather will change and will give us a chance on the Piz Badile, Piz Bernina and other high mountains with cool trad lines like the Cassin on the Piz Badile...

Here the little movies that didn't want to upload...not the best but it gives a view on what we've done in Friedrichshafen and Val di Mello.
The Plaun da Lej video soon :)

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