Saturday, December 24, 2011

Preparing for January

.
Last year I wrote a post with exactly the same title.
And this year again we're preparing...for the big Winter trip.

Theres so much to do: administration, financials, training and of course...the van.

Dennis' still has his VW Syncro and tries to get it 'Winter proof' again. 'New' gearbox, 'new' engine, all the interior (new shelfs and cupboards).

Basically its a whole new van, the only thing that stayed the same is the outer (still bumpy big and white)

Hopefully we get it all done before January.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Merry Christmas

Ola everyone,
I wish you all a merry merry Christmas and a happy new year!
Now take Wulff Morgenthalers advice: "Don't wish for any presents! It's weak and passive. Go make your own happiness. Be the master of your own destiny.
Add Image








Make it a good, fun, fanatic, sportive, smart, wise, safe, crazy cool climbing year!



Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Lolotte


In China we met a very nice 'person': Lolotte.
Lolotte is a frog travelling the world. She (?) meets climbers, visits famous climbing areas and sometimes she dares a climb herself :)
We met her as well back in China.
Want to become fan of Lolotte: check her Facebookpage

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Indoor Winter Training

Since the Dutch Drytool Event we have some drytool routes in climbinggym Rock Steady (Bussum, NL) and this is how we spent our evenings :)

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Viva 400 Award












Zo. Daar ben ik weer. Even dan, want ik heb het een beetje druk.

Draaiboek schijven, nog een draaiboek schrijven, China trip report, evaluaties doen met stagaires, drytool routes bouwen, werken, nog iets meer werken, nadenken over een interessante toekomstige baan, financien bijwerken, studeren en daarnaast moet ik ook nog wat klimmen (schijnt).
En eigenlijk hebben al deze dingen een deadline van 30 november. Great.

Dus nu even snel een berichtje in het Nederlands, dan hoef ik niet na te denken over wat ik typ, dat gaat sneller en zo bespaar ik een beetje tijd...
Jullie hebben nog heel wat dingen van mij tegoed. Foto's van drytoolen, China, NK sportklimmen, en nu gisteren ook de Viva 400 Award.

In Club Lido (Holland Casino Amsterdam) was het feestje, met nog 399 andere genodigden, Viva redacteurs en een paar mannen (die zich nogal ongemakkelijk voelden).
Iedereen was alleen, vriendjes mochten niet mee en iedereen kende (bijna) niemand. Perfect om te beginnen met netwerken. Ik was categorie stoer, dus ik zou moeten netwerken met stoer of zakelijk (afhankelijk van mijn doelen voor de avond). Ik struikelde bijna over categorie zakelijk (Jennifer). Haar jurk was gigantisch en paste precies bij haar persoonlijkheid.

Na een tijdje kwam er een vreemde man op het podium. Mannen & Viva gaan niet echt samen, behalve als het om de Anybody gaat, dus iedereen vroeg zich af wat hij er deed. Hij zelf ook. Hij las zijn speech op vanaf z'n tablet. Het ging over talent, vrouwen, knap zijn en ondanks dat hij het telkens ontkende ging het over 'donkere' 'vieze' talenten met mooie gezichtjes en, wat voor hem belangrijk was: mooie benen.
Talent is dus het hebben van mooie benen. De man op het podium bleek de baas van de Playboy, zo zei hij vooraf. Ik ben nog niet gevraagd voor in de Playboy dus ik lees het blad ook niet, wist ik veel dat hij de baas er van is. Zo 'Playboy' was ie eigenlijk niet.

Om de Award te winnen moest je zo veel mogelijk stemmen verzamelen. Een duidelijk stukje vriendjes politiek en oneerlijk stemmen. Als hoofdredacteur van een groot online vrouwen magazine had je duidelijk meer kans om te winnen dan als marathon zwemster. Want je kan gewoon al je online leden vragen op je te stemmen, marathon zwemmers hebben denk ik meer talent, maar omdat ze eerlijk zijn en liever bezig met hun sport dan hun ego maken ze minder kans. Dus uiteindelijk wonnen

Aanstormend: LOS (toneelgroep)
Creatief: Marjolein Schel (hoofdredactuer online magazine 'girlsscene')
Goed: Dina-Perla Marciano (rechten van de vrouw en minderheden)
Showbizz: Carice van Houten (actrice)
Slim: Elke Geraerts (klinische psychologie, kindermishandeling)
Stoer: Katja Roose (kitesurfster)
Zakelijk: Mascha Feoktistova (eigenaresse site beautygloss.nl)

(Dus wanneer je onderzoek doet naar eiwitten en hun opbouw, caberatiere bent, sieraden uit Nepal verkoopt, of aan ijsklimmen doet en geen Facebook hebt omdat je in China zit, maak je geen kans)
Gelukkig won Katja bij mijn categorie en niet het Nederlands tafeltennisteam of een vrouwtje dat een container bedrijf heeft in de haven. Want dan zou ik gaan twijfelen of ik wel in de juiste categorie mee deed.

Na de awards zijn we even weg gegaan want om 10:00uur was er nog geen echt eten. Een beetje amuses happen is voor de anorexia modellen prima, maar voor ons (slim, creatief, sportief en een verdwaalde zakelijke lesbische bruid) was het niks. Dus stonden we opeens in onze jurken, hoge hakken en make-up in de snackbar op de Leidscheplein. We verzonnen dat Jennifer net van het altaar was weggelopen.

Even later waren we weer terug en klaar om te gaan gokken. We zaten opeens te gokken samen met de hoofdredacteur van de Viva, de baas van Disaronno, de Playboy baas, een model en iemand van de marechaussee. Zo hadden we €20,- bij de Black Jack en zo verloren we €50,- uiteindelijk ben ik zonder winst naar huis gegaan.

Het was gezellig, leuk en vreemd om opeens tussen zoveel vrouwen te staan. Ik moest soms hard nadenken over m'n opmerkingen. Alle cynische, seksistische, harde, platte, simpele grappen kon ik nauwelijks maken. En als ik dan toch iets seksistisch of cynisch zei snapte niemand het behalve de cabaretière.
90% was griezelig arrogant en zelfingenomen, 1% was man en hoorde er dus niet thuis, 2% wist zelf niet wat ze er deed omdat ze eigenlijk niks bijzonders deden, 2% was lesbisch en alleen maar op zoek naar een relatie met een bijzondere vrouw, 3% was drukker met Twitteren dan met real-life-social-life, dus bleef er zo'n 2% over die potentieel interessant was om mee te praten, gokken en drinken. Cheers.

Ik ga wel gewoon weer klimmen, dat snap ik tenminste.

Foto's: friet eten in glamour jurk. Kudo's voor mijn über arrogante look, anders hoor je er niet bij hè... En gokken met de 'beroemde' Jan Heemskerk en meneer Disaronno.

Monday, November 14, 2011

Dutch Drytool Event!

Okay, it might be the weirdest country for a Drytool comp, but I managed to organise it :)
This Sunday climbing gym Rock Steady in Bussum will be filled with iceclimbers, sportsclimbers and all other kind of climbers who want to try out iceaxes!
Petzl just told me they'll provide iceaxes for the comp so everyone, even if you're 'just a sportsclimber' you can join this fun comp.
There will be routes from easy D1 and D3 up to really hard and tricky D12 meaning there will be something for everyone. So if you climb just 5b of if you're a hardcore 8c climber you're all welcome and will have fun (I'm sure of it)
After the finals there's a free meal for all volunteers and competitors and we'll of course watch the newest iceclimbing movies.
More info in the NKBV website, my Facebook page and spread the word!

Note: on the NKBV site it says 'inschrijving gesloten' (subscription closed) but that is nonsense of course, just come to Bussum this Sunday and subscribe there or on the event page on Facebook.

Monday, October 17, 2011

New jeans

F*'in cool jeans!
Really.
If you're a climber and know Yosemite you'll like these jeans.
Five Ten (brand of the brave) designed jeans. Climbers jeans. With stretch and a good fit so you can now go to the gym in your jeans. For sure I'll compete in jeans on the next climbing comp.
Want to have these as well? Like 'Five Ten Nederland' on Facebook and ask for the jeans on their Facebook page.
They have a mens and a womens version. Check the different jeans here.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Just a blog post

These days I'm pretty busy with all kinds of things.
I have to work (money...) I need to climb and actually I should study (no time for it...) and I have to do administration things and make a movie about the STS and arrange all things for the first aid trainings (=part of my work) and I need
to....uhhh, it's just all a bit too much right now.

So I decided to do none of it all now and read and
knit. On my friends' the wish list: socks (Richard), a sweater (Eva) and a hat (Johannes). So enough to knit for the whole Winter.

Meanwhile Dennis tried to murder me, do I try to learn the basics of Chinese, manage to wash without as washing-machine, and I now will try to convince you that you should be in Monte Cervino tomorrow, in Monk on Sunday, in Nijmegen on Monday, Amsterdam on Tuesday...
Why? Five Ten (Brand of the brave) has the Test Event.
All nice five-tennies in all sizes to fit, feel, test, and climb with! The best excuse to buy new shoes, test them straight away and have your local Five Ten climbers to give you advice (all 5.10 Dutch team-members will be around) More info on the 5.10 Facebook page here.

And then, when work is done, administration done, climbing done, five ten tested, Chinese learned, socks knitted...then it's finally time for China!
3 weeks of climbing and adventure!
Because we'll be away, won't have e-mail, no phone reach, no postbox...we'll be busy...climbing! @Petzl Roc Trip in Getu Valley, China :)




















this-is-an-automated-out-of-office-message-I'll-be-able-to-get-back-to-you-in-three-weeks-sorry-for-the-uncoveinance-over-and-out :)

Oh, don't worry about the murder...in fact Dennis just broke a bottle of beet-juice ;)
Ow, yes, and the video report of our STS trip, as promised, here:

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

STS - Ice Factor, Kinlochleven


Yay, I won!
We're just back from yet another adventure: Scotland :)

Dennis was lucky (I guess) as he got an 'experience' for his birthday instead of something material like a watch, climbing shoes or whatever. I gave him a ticket to Scotland so we could join the Scottish Tooling Series in Ice Factor (Kinlochleven).

Last year we joined the STS in Edinburgh and Bill Davidson convinced me we should come again this year.
I just gave Dennis the ticket and that was it.
We both don't have the money for hotels, rental cars and all other luxury stuff. So we had to bivouac and rely on amazing friends.
(Thanks guys, your all welcome in our home close to Rotterdam!)

We flew to Edinburgh on Thursday and had 1,5 days to spent in Edinburgh.
We walked around, looked if the castle walls were climbable, found ourselves soaked before we could even try to get close and figured pizza was a better option then deep-fried haggis.

That eve we went to the funniest photo lecture we'd seen for ages and enjoyed the good memories of last years world-cup season when watching Lukasz Warzecha's pictures and lecture for the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival.
We slept somewhere around Ratho climbing gym (can't tell you where, it's our secret dry-place) and went climbing in the HUGE hall the next day.
Around 1 we were picked up by one of the STS organisers, Neil Silver. We drove all the way to the other side of Scotland, to the tiny theres-nothing-to-do-there-except-climbing-village Kinlochleven. It was rainy but just good enough to walk around and enjoy the beautiful Scottish Autumn landscape (really, if you're into walking you should do walk the West Highland Way)
That night we were lucky, no bivouack
ing for us as we could stay in
Simon's campervan (owner of Big Tree Campervans)
waauw, luxury and a good preparation for the next day!

Saturday was competition day. Together with at about 60 other competitors we climbed the 15 qualification routes.
All kinds of Scottish (and English, American...) Winter climbers joined the comp. It was fun to be around so many different Winter climbers all sharing the same passion: iceclimbing.
It made this tingly feeling come up again, the feeling that tells me I should start to prepare for the coming Winter, the feeling that says iceclimbing is so cool!
We were happy to see Malcolm [Kent] again and climbed together for the day.
Malc popped off a hold in one of the routes and later on the day I popped off a hold as well...a second go gives you 3 points less then a first go so our end score was just 3 points lower then that of Steve and Dennis who both made it to 150 points (10 points per route)

Then up to the finals. I had a mission: beat Dennis...something I wasn't sure of if it was possible :)
See the full results here.
I got quite nervous there in the isolation together with these strong climbers...
It was my turn, after the other girls had just finished and I already had sweaty palms before I even started climbing...
I was slow, but that was allright as I had 8 minutes to finish the route. I came all the way to the top. The only thing left was the final clip that would make a finish to the route. I struggled for 3 (!) minutes on that last move, figure-of-four, pull-up, figure-of-nine, pull-up again and on it went, I hugged the log, tried to stand on the wall, locked-off even more, but I didn't see a chance to get close to that last clip far away on that wall...Frustrated and confused as I was I had to let go, not because I was pumped but because I was out of time...no top for me! Shit...I guessed Dennis with his length could easily make that clip, and Malc with his enormous strength could do the same... I watched Malc and Steve both struggling to get that last clip...and failing...But Dennis...he hugged the log, could stand up, reach and...clipped.
That made the highest score of us all...and he'd beaten me again.
So now I can really say Dennis: you're a better drytooler then me ;)

That evening we learned how to drink Scottish beer and Dennis got a proper lesson in drinking al kinds of nasty stuff...and Whisky.
We learned that skiing down stairs is forbidden in Scottish pubs and that you can make amazing art from candles and lollipops. The music was surprisingly good for a local band (with the local supermarket cashier as lead singer, the chef of the climbing wall on guitar and other locals on drums, guitar and more)

The next day we climbed...or we tried...tired as we were of the beer the late night and the rain (Dennis and I bivouacked in the rain) ... We drytooled at Birnam Quarry (near Dunkeld) and Dennis actualy managed to climb the M10(+) 'Fast & Furious'. I was tired, knew my attempts were limited and failed in my third go :(

Fun and friendly as everyone was, we were invited to stay at Lindsay & Beth that evening. They cooked us delicious chicken and we even got a bedroom!
Beth and Lindsay drove us to Ratho where we took a bus to the city centre. We bought some new 2nd-hand books for this Winter (we like to read English books) and then it was already time to leave Scotland again.

Next time I hope we can do some real outdoor Winter stuff as well :)

Soon (hopefully tomorrow if it all works out) an video of our trip :)

But now still a video of my previous adventure, the LMC (see blog post underneath)

Pictures: Dennis&me, and Steve Lynch.

Wednesday, October 05, 2011

Dirt Devils and the LMC 2011



What better can you fill your weekend with...then just run through the mud, cycle single tracks in the night, drag tree trunks up a hill, monkey-hang with a heavy backpack, swim in stinky dirty lakes and only have a map and compass to 'turn' the right way.
That is the best description I can give you about what I did last weekend.
It even had a name: LMC, which stands for Limburg (Dutch province) Mountain Challenge.
It's an annual event organised every first weekend of October.
Years ago I volunteered with the organisation KNAV'98 and set out the night part of the race. I found it so much fun that the reminder this year resulted in participating in the race.
for over 20 hours you run, cycle, swim, run and cycle even more trying to become first on every Waypoint. GPS is not allowed, only a strange, vague or incomplete map and your compass.
On the way you try to complete tasks like dragging a tree trunk up a hill as fast as possible, run up hill in the sand to fill a bucket with water, only using little cups, measure the height of a hill, find the name of the pilot that died in a plane crash in the area, find letters and clips that are hidden in the trees/bush, figuring the meaning of names in the local Limburg dialect... and with that you score your next waypoint.
I had a bit a strange group. As the rule is that at least two of every team (team is 3 or 4 p.) have to be from Limburg (I'm not) and I subscribed to it alone...I was put together with two people I didn't knew at all. Rick and Leon.
The amazing thing is that doing such a race is one of the best teambuilding activities you can do, ever! So after 24hours together we really were a team and even decided we wanted to join the race again next year. Together!
Our team name was Dirt Devils, really fitting as we swam in such a dirty lake that we smelled rotten for the next 20hours. Maybe the name should have been Dirty Devils instead... :)
We completed the race (which is not as easy as it sounds, often teams don't complete the race) and ended somewhere on the 5th of 6th place. Luckily not third. As then you have to organise next years race.
The LMC is organised every year by volunteers. It's a hell of a job to plan a race where you cycle over 140km, run I-don't-know-how-many-k's and do all kinds of activities in between. The organisation had been working on it for a year, literary! (Big, big respect to them!)
VAV-Zuyd, from Valkenburg won this years race and 'Van geen wijken weten' has to organise next years race.
Soon a little video about the race. Here already some articles (in Dutch)
(I'm the one in the light green shorts :)

p.s: I LOVE my Tikka headlamp! Without my lovely new Tikka with rechargeable battery that lasts much longer then your average single-use batteries! The compact headlight is even water-resistant, so I could keep it on when swimming in the dirty lake :)

Friday, September 23, 2011

Old Dutch Apple Pie

Monday is Dennis' birthday. He asked me to bake a pie. "The one I always do, with the apples" he said.
Oh, and if I could make of for his colleagues at work on Sunday as well.
And...please, can I make one extra so we have some for the day after his birthday...
So suddenly I was kneading this massive dough!

The recipe is simple and so Dutch. It's my
grandmothers old recipe from her old cooking-book, but then adapted to what she prefers (my mum guessed the recipe is actually older then the cooking-book in which she wrote the adaptations, which means it's over 70 years old, maybe even older she said).

The good thing is that you can make this pie in basically every oven. Hot air or whatever. I even once made it in a pot on a cole fire and once I'd
put it in the microwave. And it always turns out well.
Now I don't even use scales anymore to weigh all ingredients. I just guess and 'feel' that it's all right.
And because I make this pie so often I decided to share this old recipe with you. This is the translated version, as even for some Dutchies the old Dutch language is difficult to read :)














Recipe, for one pie in a 16cm tin.

Dough:
  • 300g flour
  • 120g brown sugar
  • 210g butter (no margarine)
  • 1 large egg
  • grated lemon peel of one lemon
  • some salt
Filling:
  • 3 or 4 sour apples (like the green 'granny smith')
  • 2 spoons of normal sugar
  • 3 table-spoons of apricot jam
  • some cinnamon
  • if you want: dried white raisins
Add the flour together with a sniff of salt and the lemonpeel in a bowl.

Add the butter. Cut the butter into little blocks and stir it through the flour mixture.

Add the browsugar and most of the beaten egg.

Knead the dough into a cohesive ball.
If the dough is too weak, put it into the fridge for a while.

Rub the tin (or silicone form) with a bit of butter. Take off 1/4 of the dough (for the topping) and push and knead the dough in the tin so it fills the bottom and the side. The dough has to be less then 1cm thick. I often make it even thinner then 0,5cm.
If your worried of the dough sticking onto the sides after baking it, then don't rub the dough in the tin itself but roll it out separately and lay it in the tin on a layer of rubbed in butter with some flour over it.

Now cut the apples in small parts or blocks (whatever you prefer) and put them in the a bowl. Always cut off the peel of the apples. The peel makes the pie taste a bit bitter. And the texture is not too nice for the rather 'soft' (or more 'al dente) pie.

Add the apricot jam, a spoon of sugar, a sniff of cinnamon and the dry raisins. If you want you can add some lemon juice to avoid the apples turning brown. Stir the mixture and put it all into the bed of dough.


Now make little 'dough stripes' for the topping and garnish the apples with the stripes. Make a funny text or put them in classic diamonds over the mixture.
'Paint' the diamond pattern with the rest of the whipped egg and the rest of the sugar.

Now comes the difficult part: baking the pie.
Depending on your microwave, oven, or barbecue you should just keep an eye on the baking process. In the oven I have at home it takes 50 minutes on 200 degrees (Celcius) but my parents oven has a double function (microwave/hot air) and then it takes only 20 minutes. On a fire I always have to watch so the bottom doesn't burn and when you only use the microwave you have to watch that the dough doesn't get too hard.

Just see it as a bit experiment. Once you get the skills you can make this pie everywhere, even when you're our camping!

Happy birthday and enjoy!

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Powered by Petzl & ABK









Nothing to do this weekend? Looking for some fun but nobody to climb with? Looking for some beautiful climbs together with your friends and check out the newest gear without driving to a climbing shop? Want to figure more about the newest climbing clothing? Up for a pro photoshoot? And that all together with some of the BEST climbers of the region (BeNeLux)

Or do you prefer powder...? Or both?
Come check out the newest ski's, harnesses, climbing wear, snowboots and more. Relax and share adventures with the Petzl-team members!

Such bad timing that the National Championships Bouldering are planned at the same time...so I'm 'forced' to go to Amsterdam Centraal climbing gym instead. But, say it: isn't it better to be outdoors and the Fryer limestone then indoors on Dutch plastic?

Come all and gather for the 'Powered by Petzl and ABK' event in Freyr (Belgium)!
Find out more about this fun and cool event in a total lay-back style. No comps, no challenges, just fun and relax and it all costs you nothing (cause nature is there for free)

For more info check this website: poweredbypetzlandabk.com


They make the coolest climbing underwear ever! A real must-have for every climber.
So if you haven't figured a your buddies birthday present yet? Now you know what to buy. And...a dirt-bag climber can never have enough underwear ;)

(photos: ABK website)

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Post! 5.10 Quantum arrived :)

I just got post :) I have a new sponsor. I quit my contract with Boreal. (For all kinds or reasons) But not the one you'd think of first: shitty rubber. I have to say I was pretty satisfied with the rubber. And now I saw they even improved into really really sticky stuff. The shoes even stuck together on, let's say, gravity :)

As advice I'd always say that you should wear the shoes that suits and fits you best. So it can be that you don't buy 5.10, La Sportiva, Evolv or Boreal but suddenly walk around on Mad Rocks.
Shoe manufacturers get the issue that people tend to buy more and more a shoes that feels comfortable. And that is, especially to beginners, the best advice you can give.
Wearing shoes that are too big or worse too tight can cause trouble later on when you're finally a 'rotten old stinky climber' and have toes that your local pedicure doesn't want to touch anymore.

And that is one of the things my new sponsor, 5.10, keeps on hammering on. On the box of every pair of climbing shoes it says: "Don't fit your shoes too tight".
And that, together with the 8 other points is critical to climbing-shoe fitting and shopping.
Here the other 8 points:
  • Street shoes size is only a starting point
  • Rock shoes are unique, no two designs fit alike. Generally, softer shoes perform best with a snug fit. Stiffer shoes can be worn looser.
  • Eliminate dead space but don't fit so tight as to create hot spots.
  • Climbing shoes should not be uncomfortably tight, otherwise tears might keep you from seeing micro edges.
  • Feet swell during the day, from 1/2 size to a full size. Try on shoes in the afternoon if possible.
  • Synthetic uppers won't stretch - you'll have the same fit in 6 months. You should have no hot sports when you are up on your toes.
  • Lined leather shoes stretch up to 1/3 size after a break in period of about 10 pitches.
  • Unlined leather shoes will stretch up to 1 full size.
Now you know how to fit your shoes.

Time to find the right shoes. For me as iceclimber, boulderer, sportsclimber, semi-crack-climber, multipitch climber, routesetter and alpine climber is it not too easy to find a pair of shoes that always do what I need them to do: stick onto the wall whatever I climb and still stay comfortable.

I prefer a toe-down shoe in any case and I love heelhooking so the heel needs to be tight enough. Now they need to be comfortable but technical. Not too hard, not too soft on the rubber and the sole and as I sweat a lot (ielgh) they need to be lined so I don't 'slip' inside my shoes. I have pretty wide 'trouble' feet so they need to be quite wide at the front.
I guess I found what I need: a versatile shoe that is precise and has a snug fit: Quantum.
I just got them, so tonight will be the first try-out. I'll tell you later what I find of these shoes.

So far this is what others write about the new Quantum:

James Pearson: "Hmmm, maybe this picture can explain a little... my Quantum collection, 3 sizes, boulder, routes, and big wall – these days they are all I wear."

DPM Climbing: "Right out of the box, these shoes fit perfectly: super-snug, but not painful. The lack of dead air in the heel was a welcome change from most shoes for me. Even the laces, which I normally hate, were awesome. The ridged laces stay put when you pull them tight so you don’t have to battle to keep it snug at every pull."

Klimmuur Den Haag: "De enige schoen in de lijst met veters voor extra precisie. Dit is de opvolger van de klassieke Anasazi Lace. Maar nu asymetrisch en met een downturn, voor nog meer gevoel en druk op de grote teen."

Backcountry.com: "I don't give 5 stars to gear often unless it's really deserving, but the 5.10 Quantum deserves the 5/5.
Based on the popular 5.10 Anasazi, the Quantum adds a downturned profile, low volume heel cup and the amazingly sticky and tactile Stealth Mystique to it's previous popular design. These shoes are freaking weapons. I've climbed on them for a few weeks now and I have really nothing but praise for them. The aggressive turn of the shoe make tackling overhanging and technical routes a breeze, and they edge like a fiend on slab and tiny little features. They even jam in cracks relatively well. I haven't put these through a maneuver yet where I was left wanting more out of a shoe."

Fliegerhorst drytool demo



Yay, again an excuse to go drytooling for the whole day!

Theres not much opportunity (yet) in the Netherlands to get a full drytool-workout.
This weekend I headed to Venlo, over 2hrs driving South-East from Bergschenhoek.
The 'Fliegerhorst' had their 'open-day'. They had a competition, via-ferrata, climbing, slacklining, readings, bouldering, walking and drytooling in their program. And I was the one responsible for the drytooling.

I gave two demo's for quite some audience. There were people who'd never seen iceaxes before and people who'd tried some years ago and are now eager to try again.

I took wood-blocks with me and hung them in the roof of the tower. Creating an figure-of-four roof climb with a start on the straight wood wall. It was fun, real fun having the opportunity to just climb as much as I wanted with my axes.
I had a microphone under my helmet, making it possible to talk and climb at the same time. So I could explain in detail about all I 'figured' ;)
Afterwards I had an autograph session. So weird signing children's t-shirts, posters and writing special requests on photo's of me drytooling.
Though this is a perfect way to promote my sponsors, train a bit and bring drytooling to a broader public. Hopefully one day it will give respect for the sports, get us into youth drytooling teams, special made drytool walls in the Netherlands and maybe finally into the Olympics?

Next to the demo's people who joined the competition had to climb the wood wall and all others were invited to try out the wall as well. It gave me the opportunity to show that drytooling and iceclimbing really is a sports and to show that it's not 'just slamming some medieval tools into a simple ice wall'.
Most climbers, experienced and strong as they were didn't even get half way on the wood wall and never even thought of getting into the roof :)

They day was enthusiastically organised by volunteers of the local climbing club. They did really well with the non-stop speaker Pierre, photographer Waldo, loads of volunteers to belay (thanks Koen) and help with via-ferrata, climbing, bouldering, they even had free hamburgers, a pretty professional sound system and more.

I also joined the competition and had to 'walk the line' (slackline), leadclimb the most difficult route on the tower (6b) build a tower out of beer-crates and I was not allowed to join the iceclimbing ;) I would be first but left the victory to local Koen. I won a tick-remover (check link for the joke in Dutch) and he got a beautiful flower-chalkbag.

Pictures: Waldo Waldo Ruiterman & me.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Climbing for Cancer


Sometimes you have to remind yourself to the fact that life might be not so easy for everyone. And then as a human it's good to help. Even just a bit is more then nothing at all.
The easiest way to help is with donations.
This weekend was donation weekend. For the Dutch Cancer institute 'NKI-AVL'.
Monte Cervino and a couple volunteers organised a competition with as idea to collect money for the Cancer institute.
Every route you climbed had points, the more difficult the route the more points you got. I climbed together with a young climber, Arno and Jeroen (manager of the Monte Cervino gym). Jeroen belayed me in the lead climbs and Arno and I were a team for the competition.
I won the comp in my category and Arno became second in his category. But this comp was not just for 'winning'. Well, not for us, but the hope to win time and cures for Cancer with the money we all collected.
Afterwards we enjoyed an amazing home-cooked Thai meal. (We want more!)
Next year again!

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Ice/dry week in the Netherlands





























Okay, not what you'd expect in the Netherlands but, yes, as the title says, last week was all about drytooling and iceclimbing!
For my work I had to go to Voerendaal, a little village close to Heerlen in the South of the Netherlands. Living close to Rotterdam driving to Heerlen is what we call 'going aboad' as it's so far away (sort of).
And thus we (Dennis & me) went together for a little 'holiday'.
The first day was work: guiding/teaching/coaching teambuilding games together with Sjaak Ruivenkamp. It was a fun and motivating day.
The next day we were invited at Snowworld. A big (the biggest of the Netherlands) indoor snow hall. National teams from all over the world gather here for their Summer ski-training.
But as I can't ski (really this day was the third time I ever stood on those things) I wasn't there for skiing. We were invited for another thing: iceclimbing! Snowworld has the brilliant idea to build an indoor iceclimbing wall and exploit it commercially. (Yes there is already another iceclimbing wall in the Netherlands, but it's not really popular for certain reasons)
The idea for the next years is to just have it as a wall for groups, students and occasional iceclimbers but if possible, for the future there are ambitious ideas to increase the structure and make it suitable for worldcup competitions!
To get a better idea about how to build a wall, what snow and ice to use, how thick it has to be, how high, how wide, how easy or difficult, how strong, what materials...they invited us. They'd even build a little wall as test to see if the ice, structure and idea could actually work out.
We took our tools and conquered the little wall. (See video)
And later we went to ski, snowboard, eat, ski, snowboard, eat, climb and ski some more. Alltogether we'd spent a whole day in the cold and got used to it. Yes, I guess we're ready for Winter climbing now!
And with the iceclimbing on that day we went on to Fliegerhorst, Venlo. On September 18. they have an 'open day' and we are invited to give an iceclimbing/drytooling demo. The Fliegerhorst mountaineers are a very friendly and warm group of people so we said yes to the demo :)
Now that we were 'abroad' already it was logical to do a stopover in Venlo. Pierre drove all the way to the Fliegerhorst to welcome us and show us the drytool wall.
We drank tea, took lunch, discussed climbing and most of all...we tooled. (In Dutch terms) they have a very descent wood wall with wooden holds and more. Good enough to get you strong for Winter climbing. I realised I still have a long way to go to be fit enough for the Winter. I had difficulties with figure-of-four's and long moves :) But this is a start. You can never start soon enough I guess.
On September 18. I'll be there again for the demo. You're all welcome to watch and try!

Pictures: Dennis and me climbing in Snowworld/Fliegerhorst
Video: iceclimbing in Snowworld Landgraaf (ps. I know, the music is bad, that was a reminder for how the music was in the Snowworld restaurants...)

Monday, September 05, 2011

Competition weekend





























Back in the Netherlands.
With a really busy schedule.
From Bergschenhoek to Muiden to pick up my parents. They cycled over 2700km for their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela! See here their report.
Then I went to Bussum (work, teaching a First Aid course) then on to Ommen (being First Aid volunteer on Dennis school camp) where I spent a night and morning in a hospital with a girl and then I drove on to Rockanje to work and then to Eindhoven for the last of the 3 boulder competitions in Monk bouldergym.
I sometimes have trouble with my mind...playing tricks on me... Then I can get nervous and very insecure about all I do: climbing, communication, how I look...about everything basically. I had that with teaching the First Aid course last week and now again with the comp. Then I can simply forget how to climb and I loose all my strength, or when teaching I forget all basic things I have to tell the students. Now when I write about it I'm pretty 'light' about it, but on such a moment I just feel so uncomfortable.
I decided not to climb the finals, as I felt so insecure. So I was 9th after the 8 finalists. I would have been 6th or 7th or some I guess.
The next day, yesterday, was the first Dutch speed competition in 'Arendse Health Club', Breda. A test for the upcoming Speed worldcup which will be in the Netherlands in a couple years. In Breda we gathered with a group of just 14 climbers. A small group, mainly Dutch team members who were all 'forced' to climb. The rest of the Dutch climbers stayed at home. (Why?)
For me speedsclimbing is not the 'real' climbing, the thing I live for, live of. But it's something fun, try to improve your speed, technique and set a better time.
It was an official 10m. wall with the IFSC speed holds as seen on the worldcup, placed in exactly the same way as on the worldcup wall.
Thanks to Dennis' drill and some screws the comp could go on. The end hold, a plate where you tap on to stop the time, got loose every time resulting in false times and failing time records. Luckily I had that drill with because the car, Dennis van, didn't start that morning and I used it to fix some things. I was just in time for the comp...
I'm naturally a really, really slow climber. Doing all moves static. Where all climbers dyno I take a heelhook, rock over and on tension and balance reach for the hold. So speedclimbing is not really my discipline I guess.
But with just Vera Zijlstra of the Dutch national team as serious competitor and three local girls I landed on a second place. I was slow, made a mistake in the top in my second run but actually expected to be worse then I was. So, not bad. With medal and a bottle of white wine I went home.
Now off to Fliegerhorst, Venlo for some drytool fun and work tomorrow.
For all the Dutch: interested in a First Aid course, height safety course or a specialised mountain safety and first aid course or any first aid products? Together with Ascent safety I give courses and sell all kinds of first aid products. Ever heard of Snogg, Sam Splint, or do you just need a new emergency blanket, check this website or mail me for more information :) der.steen[@]gmail.com

Pictures:

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Home...pt.2

In my own house again. I live 'anti-squat' (for the Dutch: antikraak). I have a massive villa which is slowly breaking down. Starting with rats in the livingroom, mice in the 'sun room' and a bird in one of the bathrooms. And then all the millipedes and spiders... It took me hours to vacuum and mop the whole house.
It is strange to live in the luxury. We have water just instant out of the tap and if you want it's even warm or hot! We have machines to clean the floor, your clothes, heat up dinner and much more. All works on electricity.
And theres (for your feeling) an infinite amount of it! You plug in your phone and it's being charged and you can do that on all hours of the day.
Life this way is easy and, because of all 'extra's', complicated in the same time. I have the feeling that, because we have so much around us, we have the habit of wanting even more then we have. We want more then we need. All the time.
We want to eat more then we need, we want to live bigger then we have to, we want to watch more movies then we have time for, we want more clothes then we can ever wear...
Once having lived in a cave (what I did quite some years ago) and being a mountaineer *waking up in your sleeping bag because it's light and my biological clock says it's time to rise, walking a bit to get snow to melt into water for breakfast and getting ready to 'work' (climb) all day. Back home again in the evening when it's already getting dark. Happy with whatever the food is, it will be tasteful. Tugging up in my sleeping bag, convincing myself I have to wash myself tomorrow...or the day after... And being asleep straight away because it had all been so heavy on the day*
I can just not describe in words how it feels to be a climber, to live this life. But those moments in a bivouac somewhere up on a mountain are just the best there are. I can trade my mansion, car, all clothes, food, electronics for this moments in a bivouac in the mountains.
Renan Ozturk, artist, photographer and climber, tried to give a view on 'life as a climber' in Yosemite. And the result is pretty beautiful:

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Home...in the flat country


After one 8a, some ED/ED+, hard boulders, long walks a 1/2 marathon offroad, loads of pasta&tomato sauce, many Alpine roads and 2 months without a shower...we're back home again.
But not after a quick stop in Kandersteg (sportsclimbing, mountain running and drytooling in the sun -yes, drytooling is a sport for all year round- ) and later a stop in Ettringen.
Yestderday was so hot that it was impossible to climb. Which made us go for a swim instead. Laacher see it was. After all this sitting, driving and baking in the sun I decided it was time for a bit of movement. A bit became a lot and became a test. Wondering how fit I actually was (I noticed I could run uphill for 50 mins on 1200m height without getting tired and doing an offraod mountain run for 1:10hrs without getting any muscle-soreness or sore knees)
So how far could I run on a warm evening? It became 27km in less then 2 hours. All offroad in the hills around the Laacher See. It's not advisable to try this when you didn't eat enough and forgot to drink the regular amount of water you need on a day... Though, I did. Next is of course to run a marathon, offroad in the mountains :) Which is 'nothing' if you compared it to what runners with the Mont Blanc ultra-trail will run this week.
This morning it was cold enough to try climbing. Around 8 in the morning we had our warm-up and around 12 we had to leave because of the pressing humid heat.
In between we climbed quite some things including 'magical project' Mut der Verzweiflung. I tried this route before and once I knew how hard it was and that it had never been climbed by a woman (at that time, now it's been climbed by German local Melanie). I'm not so good in 'tempering myself' so nervous as I was every time I'd get upon the route I just failed. Getting scared, pumped, unfocused, basically just far too nervous to climb it...
But now after a Summer full of trad (7a on 3000m height) I was just far too fit to miss out on this 'simple-almost-below-sea-level-climb-on-a-hill-instead-of-a-3000m-heigh-mountain'.
I toproped it as warmup and 'walked' through all the moves with surprising ease. And I knew I had to get on lead. Nervous. Shit. Trembling, shaky on my legs even before I made any move. I got pumped after 2 moves. Shit.
I belayed Dennis, went for a walk with him (he knew I got nervous...too nervous to climb...) and ate a waffle, drank some water and relaxed.
Ready this time.
I climbed it, had the right locks on the right places and even had time to relax and shake my arms. Not that I got pumped, it's just a habit: Chalk up, shake, look, chalk, shake, move, look, move, shake, climb, chalk, shake, chalk, move...I'm a slow climber.
But I did it. Gear on the right place and never scared, pumped or in trouble. So cool, it felt like climbing 6b!
I have to say, this is so much easier then 7a trad in a long long multipich :) Officially Mut der Verzweiflung is graded as 7b/7b+. I'm not so good in grading routes. I'd guess it's more a 7a. But thats just because it went so easy right now. Guess I'm fit :)
Now, home again, I have to work again. Earn some money and go out again as soon as possible!

Here the three last movies of the 'Summer climbing trip 2011'.