Thursday, May 24, 2012
As I said before, I'd travel again.
All the way to Grenoble.
The weather forecast wasn't too good. Rainy, not really warm. But it was a long weekend (Ascension in French, Hemelvaart in Dutch), so no reason to stay indoors (read: inside the van).
We decided get stay close to Grenoble and drove to Presles. (Pronounced as 'praill')
Theres so much to there. Multipitch, trad, aid, sports... And thats what we did: all of it, or at least, Dennis did all of it, I couldn't be bothered to get up on an AID route.
The weather turned out to be surprisingly friendly with just a bit of rain during the night and on Sunday midday.
On the first day we did a trad multipitch. But it seems the French are changing all trad into bolted routes (why?) because almost all we climbed was sort-of bolted.
Saturday we climbed Fhara Kiri (A0/6c+ max.) was listed as trad too, but was entirely bolted.
Not that it mattered, we had fun anyway. My favourite pitch was a 6b, just after the crux length. It started as technical slab/vertical traverse and ended in reachy moves on a overhanging wall. I love that combination!
On Sunday the rain came in. But it was allright. We were tired of all the climbing and figured 4 days was not enough for this area. We went to the small sports crack "Balme Étrange" and realised even more that this area is a place you can spent your whole life.
The routes were beautiful! 6c on a long colonette (Masse moi la colonne) , 6b+ in a cool overhang (Dernier effort) and then the rest...7c+ in a small roof and ending on a beautiful vertical wall (Le gosier)...and LOADS more.
For the coming weeks I won't have the time to travel to France (too much work to do at home) but yesterday evening I figured theres enough fun around here.
Some friends form 'De Berg' (we call our local climbing gym 'the mountain') decided to have a barbecue at the 'pond' (muddy lake) next to the gym. Thanks for the fun dudes!
The good thing of De Berg is that it's an indoor and outdoor gym. So good for the Sunny Summer days!
I'll go again today, and tomorrow, and... just every day.