Saturday, September 13, 2008

BAZ and PromoTop

Klimax ll
Exactly one weekend ago we had our first competition in Belgium. It was raining everywhere even in France so we decided to go and climb indoors instead. We drove with our own borrowed car (thanks mum&dad) all the way to Klimax ll in Puurs close to Antwerp.

Not a good start
We arrived in time but still a bit late. We had hardly any time to warm up and I was first to climb at the females route. The girl who showed the route hadn't climbed for 3 months (I heard that afterwards) and couldn't do the whole route. It looked super difficult and I wasn't even sure I could do the first move as it looked so hard when she was doing it. She took a lot of time and I was completely cold when I stepped into the route. No way my fingers warmed up so I got pumped and on a sudden move I just dropped because I didn't feel the hold I was holding. It got me pissed. I found it unfair I had to go first after such a bad example. All the other climbers could now profit from my attempt, I didn't have this profit form the girl who showed the route...
Ok second route...I was too late, nobody called our names and the whole thing was a bit chaotic. I did a bit better then before but because I was in such a hurry in the start I wasn't very concentrated. I fell but was just good enough to get into the Promo finals/Top half finals.

Valdi the Viking ;)
Valdi did just very well and didn't have the unlucky things I was dealing with. He topped both qualifications and was easily though to the next round.

Again some hassle with the isolation yes/no/yes/no/yes you have to be in the isolation...Handy. As I was qualified last I had to go first again and again because of all the trouble I wasn't very warm. So I did sort of ok and landed 8th in Top class and 3th in Promo class. Not too bad after not climbing on plastic for a couple months.
Valdi did extremely well and impressed a lot by ending 3th in the Top class! We won Duvel (local Belgian beer) and a nice medal. And went to Hrappur to have some more Belgian fun. (We drove four times the wrong way but finally made it to exit number 1.)
Boulderen aan Zee (BAZ)
The weekend before that we were on the beach of Scheveningen between loads and loads of big boulder blocks. I was extremely tired of our trip to the Netherlands and the four days of climbing before that. Valdimar didn't feel well at all, he actually was just ill. The sun was burning the whole day and we got even browner then we were before.
More meeting friends then climbing
It was really cool to see all the people again. Arjen came by with his girl and Herrie joined too. We climbed as hard as we could but being tired, used to soft long limestone routes and actually ill we didn't have the prestations we expected of ourselves. I saw all the girls climbing and they are good, like high world-cup level good. They trained for this, I only trained for long routes. On the end of the day it was so that I or júst had enough points or júst not...So I filled in my list with too less points so I wouldn't land in the finals. I just didn't dare to take up against those girls...
Valdi was still not feeling well and had the shits. We looked at the party in the night but didn't join. We slept in between the boulders and enjoyed the sun on the next day.

I tried one 7a boulder where I think I sprained my shoulder a bit. I still feel it and know I have to rest. The funny this is that the boulder was put up by a guy of which I said before he makes boulders which injure people. He builds long moves on tiny footholds without any thechnical moves, just ugly pulling I would say. And that's exactly what I did one move too many...(Thanks Bas, (funny ha, that's the guys name you get it: Bas at the BAZ, haha. But unless his bad routesetting he's a nice guy) Injuries get me crazy because I NEED to climb (I'm not addicted or something...) I'll just realx a bit for this week and see how it feels.
Though we were unlucky we enjoyed being at the BAZ, it's such an amazing setup this cool blocks on the beach all those people it's just pure entertainment.

Picca's from the climbing in Klimax, as I was climbing myself so much I don have any BAZ pictures :(

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