Competition weekend

Back in the Netherlands.

With a really busy schedule.

From Bergschenhoek to Muiden to pick up my parents. They cycled over 2700km for their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela! See here their report.

Then I went to Bussum (work, teaching a First Aid course) then on to Ommen (being First Aid volunteer on Dennis school camp) where I spent a night and morning in a hospital with a girl and then I drove on to Rockanje to work and then to Eindhoven for the last of the 3 boulder competitions in Monk bouldergym.

I sometimes have trouble with my mind...playing tricks on me... Then I can get nervous and very insecure about all I do: climbing, communication, how I look...about everything basically. I had that with teaching the First Aid course last week and now again with the comp. Then I can simply forget how to climb and I loose all my strength, or when teaching I forget all basic things I have to tell the students. Now when I write about it I'm pretty 'light' about it, but on such a moment I just feel so uncomfortable.

I decided not to climb the finals, as I felt so insecure. So I was 9th after the 8 finalists. I would have been 6th or 7th or some I guess.

The next day, yesterday, was the first Dutch speed competition in 'Arendse Health Club', Breda. A test for the upcoming Speed worldcup which will be in the Netherlands in a couple years. In Breda we gathered with a group of just 14 climbers. A small group, mainly Dutch team members who were all 'forced' to climb. The rest of the Dutch climbers stayed at home. (Why?)

For me speedsclimbing is not the 'real' climbing, the thing I live for, live of. But it's something fun, try to improve your speed, technique and set a better time.

It was an official 10m. wall with the IFSC speed holds as seen on the worldcup, placed in exactly the same way as on the worldcup wall.

Thanks to Dennis' drill and some screws the comp could go on. The end hold, a plate where you tap on to stop the time, got loose every time resulting in false times and failing time records. Luckily I had that drill with because the car, Dennis van, didn't start that morning and I used it to fix some things. I was just in time for the comp...

I'm naturally a really, really slow climber. Doing all moves static. Where all climbers dyno I take a heelhook, rock over and on tension and balance reach for the hold. So speedclimbing is not really my discipline I guess.

But with just Vera Zijlstra of the Dutch national team as serious competitor and three local girls I landed on a second place. I was slow, made a mistake in the top in my second run but actually expected to be worse then I was. So, not bad. With medal and a bottle of white wine I went home.

Now off to Fliegerhorst, Venlo for some drytool fun and work tomorrow.

For all the Dutch: interested in a First Aid course, height safety course or a specialised mountain safety and first aid course or any first aid products? Together with Ascent safety I give courses and sell all kinds of first aid products. Ever heard of Snogg, Sam Splint, or do you just need a new emergency blanket, check this website or mail me for more information :) der.steen[@]gmail.com

Pictures:

• my mum and dad on Schiphol, back from their big, big cycling tour
• the 'condom' climbing wall (the pole I work on...)
• Vera and Tim training for the speedclimbing competition

Boulder and more. Summer climbing.

Travelling around in Engadin and the Chiavenna region. Border hopping you can call it. One day on the Italian side (Chiavenna) the other day on the Swizz side again (Breggalia/Engadin valley)

Due to the bad weather conditions we haven't had the chance to climb what we're here for.

Bouldering is nice, sportsclimbing is fun though but the idea is to get onto the Piz Badile, Bernina and other beautiful and high mountains.

So far we were forced to enjoy ourselves in the valley. Sportsclimbing in Plaun da Lej, bouldering in Stampa and Multipitch in Lirone.

(see video's)

Fun to find out that climbers in the region developed a whole new bouldering area. Boulders varying form F4a to F8a I guess. We spent the first part of our session with brushing way all the moss and dirt before we could actually get up the stones. We tried quite some hard things and set up some new problems. And then the rain came in...as it does every day. Just a bit but enough to bet all boulders wet and the grass soggy.

Today we're back in Vicosoprano, stealing internet and uploading some movies. Hopfully the weather will stay good enough for us to go up into the moutains. Piz Badile (Cassin route) is our goal for tomorrow. Sweet!

Pictures: Dennis & me bouldering in Stampa, the 'Paula Fliegt' street theatre in Castelmur, Dennis in 'Linda' the multipitch we climbed in Lirone.

Val di Mello

After a couple of days in Friedrichshafen it was time to head for the Alps.

Too bad thats it's raining everywhere...

Two days ago we woke up with snowy mountains all around. One of the locals told us he hadn't seen this much snow in July in 32 years!

Hopefully it will get better in the next weeks.

Today is restday because I slipped when walking down from a climb. Luckily nothing really bad, it was just bleeding a lot: my ear. Actually it's all fine now so I can climb again tomorrow :)

The climb we did was the classic of the area Luna Nasciente. max. 6b+ but with a 'rope solo' 3a pitch on a slab and all on trad. Too bad for us, it started raining when we were in the 6th pitch. So I was forced to lead the 3a slap in the rain! The wall changed from solid friction into one big waterfall. Luckily we made it to the top and we able to walk down over the slippery paths...

Before this adventure we had one day of bouldering (Val di Mello is famous of bouldering) and we tried to find the route with the vague topo. We walked for 6 hours in total and really didn't get it where the right path was supposed to be... We climbed some vague unrated single pitch and as it was already past 5 we decided to bail and go back to our free campsite in San Martino. Luckily we had more good charms around us yesterday. We found the right path and the route.

Restday means laptop charging/internet/movie/wash-day. Dan that's exactly what we do right now. Though all works pretty slow and I don't have too much time. Meaning I just uploaded a movie without music...sorry! I'll refine the thing as soon as possible.

Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven 2011

The day after. Or actually already two days after the finals of the Worldcup Bouldering in Eindhoven.

Because of a mistake. (Won't tell you any names or details) I was climbing in Ettringen during Dutch the qualifications last April. At that time I was pretty quiet and light about it as I thought 'well, just happens and outdoor climbing is better then indoor climbing'. But somewhere in my brain there is a little voice that keeps on telling me 'Girl you're stronger then last year, you should have been there. And why don't you just write it down or say it that it's not your fault that you weren't there on the walls.'

And now I just told you.

I was told only the best three climbers would go for the 'Wildcard' for the Worldcup in Eindhoven. Later, after the qualifiers in April I figured it was the best 4 after the national team members. Bit painful...

I have no idea where I'll be next year (Yosemite, Iceland, Canada...?) But if I have that chance to qualify again, I'll try to do so :)

So, no competition climbing for me last weekend. Though I suddenly still got involved.

I'm national judge and the organisation was short in judges, so suddenly I was there.

I had 'to get into' the rules and system, but that was quite easy. And the positive thing was, that I had a first row view!

On Saturday evening I had so much engery after seeing all the climbers, that I decided to go and climb as well. And Monk it was. A full evening with all kinds of funny, strange, difficult, slopey, long, short boulders. Satisfied I left for the hotel in Mierlo.

Saturday, semi- and finals-day. The Dutch only had Vera and Nicky in the semi's.

Though, it was a busy day.

Mountain Network, a Dutch company that owns several climbing gyms in the Netherlands, was responsible for the venue (structure and the stage). And as the Netherlands is quite unpredictable weather wise you always have to count on at least some rain. This weekend was not just forecasted with 'some rain' but with LOADS of rain. So you'd expect a proper roof above the climbing walls and isolation. But nope...some sail that flappered in the wind was the only thing to protect the climbers and boulders from the rain.

There were even rumours that the competitions would be canceled because of it!

And then there was the structure itself. Four times I found a little pin on the floor under the walls. It was not just a little pin, it were crucial little things that work as locks and so basically keep the structure together. With such a pin missing, the structure can basically drop down with just a bit of wind. So four of these missing...

I climbed up with the excuse to fix the holes in the roof and also placed two pins back...

Now I can go on and on with complaining about the structure and safety (for example how to work with scaffold-hooks and how this was all a perfect example of how not to work with it...) but, I was writing about climbing and not about safety issues in stage building. (Though...hopefully it will all be better next year...)

This post is not finished (yet) due to some internet problems here, it keeps on disappearing. Really annoying. So tomorrow I'll write some more :)

CEAT Meeting Ettringen

Last time when I visited Ettringen was during the Autumn meet of the Commission Expeditions Alpine Topsport (CEAT).
This weekend was warmer, sunnier... And it was again the CEAT meeting.

We climbed so much that I forgot to film. But, still some nice things to show.

Ettringen is such a special area. The hard but silky smooth basalt, the dirty ditches you climb in full of rubbish that's been taken back by mother nature, the trees growing leaves again, the cracks...

It was so good, a bit painful though on my hands and fingers ;)

I tried a really cool 9- (French 7b+) worked it once on lead, climbed it afterwards on toprope and red point it hopefully next time! The route is called 'Einsichten eines Morphinisten' and is located in the relatively new area Schwarze Zirkel.

I missed the "I love Problems" bouldering comp in Steep Part (climbing gym in Rotterdam) so I missed the chance to qualify for the Worldcup Boulder in Eindhoven. But, that all didn't matter as outdoor climbing is what it's all about and that's what I did this weekend. I love it!

Congrats to Rachel, Roelien, Rianne, Mirthe, Hans, Jesse, Melle and Wolter!

And all Dutch team members who will join the Worldcup in June!

And it wouldn't be succesful without a "little" video...

I selected some beautiful climbs and I wanted to show just the beauty of the area. So not much talking, but a lot of climbing. Enjoy!

CEAT Meeting Ettringen, Germany from Marianne van der Steen on Vimeo.

Boulder 1.

Might be strange, after loosing a person you love, but, life goes on.

And so I go, on, and on... Maybe a bit too fast the last week as I have a cold sore, feel really tired and wonder why my recovery goes so slow.

But well, life is not bad at all, sun, putting flower bulbs in my garden, trying to grow vegetables, climbing a bit (a lot)...

So, after been quiet for a couple weeks (on my blog) I write again. About fun, climbing, and how much fun it is to climb.

Here's what's been going on last weeks:

1. Promotop, Nieuwegein, the Netherlands. National lead competition. With just climbing for a week on plastic again after just holding on my axes for a couple months. I had to get used to the climbing and did 'reasonable' with a 1st place in the Promo class and 7th in top class.

(Me in Lead 1. Nieuwegein)

2. Demo's, Enschede and Bussum. The season is not over yet. With two iceclimbing demo's I held on my axes for the last time this season. Enschede, the TSAC (Twentse Studenten Alpen Club) held an mountainsports-day for the 50th anniversary of the University in Enschede. I was invited to give a demo Iceclimbing. With 3 demo's and over 60 watching me per demo, it was quite a success.

(Herman & co. putting up my drytool route and the woodblocks, iceclimbing pictures and "Truus" the climbing wall in Enschede)

Next day, Sunday, next demo. Bussum this time. For the regional Mountainsports-day. It seems to be popular, holding this 'mountainsports-days'. Less organised, strange (bad) communication, but still fun. I had to build my own "ice" route and climbed it once a couple hours later. Truong and Ferdinand were also invited for clinics and demo's.

(Me in Bussum putting up my iceclimbing pictures and me in in my demo-route)

Some restdays now, some friends over for climbing and dinner, some first-aid course and it's already Saturday again.

(My garden, full of plum-tree flowers and my little vegetable garden with tiny carrots, broccoli, lettuce and more)

(Arnoud climbing with Kim in Monte Cervino before dinner at our place)

3. Boulder 1. the national boulder competition. I did reasonable for an iceclimber. But as I want to be an allround climber, I did 'o.k.' With a 3th place after the qualifications, a lot of nervous climbing, stress, lack of concentration, tired arms and legs, a bit hungry and a bit cold I landed on a 5th place. Not satisfied, as I wanted to maintain my position... Missing some finger strength and experience in boulder-movements... Hopefully a top three next time (in two weeks already!)

(Pictures: Truong and me in the finals of Boulder 1. Bussum)

Now: try to get work fixed and relax a bit.

Picture credits: Truong Ngo, Hans van der Steen and unknown photographer on the Lead 1. in Nieuwegein.

Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven

Sometimes I’m not so motivated to write anything on my blog.

When things don’t go the way I want them to go.

But yesterday somebody gave me the insight, that people like to read ‘bad news’ they love to see ones emotions and sorrows. So, as my blog is here to share my life, I should write about the World Cup and my car.

Last weekend I joined the World Cup Boulder in Eindhoven (Holland). I’d been training for weeks. Not months because months ago I was still covered in plaster: I had a broken wrist.

So recovering and training for the competition in once. Not the best combination, but it went quite well. I was (and still am) making such fast progress. From climbing just 6a routes on toprope in April to onsighting 6c boulder and flashing 7a boulders in June.

Though I feel my wrist when I climb. Not a lot, not that it really hurts, but I feel it. Just like I’m not strong enough on my wrist or get tired fast on my right hand and then in stings a bit. Very annoying...

So, finally there on the worldcup. I guess I was strong enough in my fingers and not too nervous. I met some friends who also joined the Iceclimbing competitions and was already less nervous.

On Friday in the isolation I was already getting a bit insecure. Gosh, I thought, those girls are light and skinny. Gosh, they’re doing hard stuff as warm-up. Gosh, what if I get nervous? Oh, shit, I think I am nervous...

Then around 11 it was finally my turn.

The first problem was ok, as I reached the zone in my first go. And then I though, oh, well if this is the level I can expect for the rest of the boulders, I’d be fine and maybe even top out some. So to save some energy and stay relaxed, I quit and waited for the next boulder.

This second boulder wasn’t as easy. It was weird, balancy, girly. Definately not my style. As I couldn’t reach the Zone, I got a bit more nervous and my concentration level dropped.

After quite some tries I decided to stop and maybe go for the next boulder.

Number three was a dyno, at least, I guess it was a dyno. I wanted to use the sides, skip the dyno, but my confidence dropped to minus temperatures. Dynoing is not my thing and so try after try...I just couldn’t fix the holds. The speaker started talking about me and I didn’t agree to what he said. More listening to the audience, the people watching me and all the noise then getting focussed on my job: sicking the boulder.

Time was up, next boulder, number four.

Completely out of focus, loosing all my strength and confidence I couldn’t even get to the first hold after the starting holds! And I knew this kind of boulders is my thing. Bit tricky, toehook, bit dynamic, positive holes in an overhaninging wall. And I guessed I had to heelhook. I love doing heelhooks. But, I couldn’t even get to the hols after the starting holds! A ridge like a crack in a green hold. So annoying! I got angry, not understanding why I couldn’t just grab the thing. It wasn’t even a long move! I tried and tried and lost all my confidence and strength in my climbing...

The last problem to stick and just f

ive minutes. I knew I was too bad to ever reach the semifinals and was disappointed in myself.

Boulder number five. Funny start, easy to reach for the zone and weird to get on after it. Rock over my leg and get the crimper. But my energy, confidence, concent

ration and mood were too low to even climb anything. I knew it wasn’t such a hard thing to climb, but I just couldn’t make it to the top. What a bummer!

And there I stood, climbing like a bad of potatoes and was ashamed. Ashamed of myself, was I really that bad of a climber? Was I on my place between these climbers? Why do I never do well on comps?

To make it even worse I watched the screen and noticed I landed in last place. Great.

On such a moment I’d rather quit climbing, hide for all people who want to ask me how I did on the comp and just become window-washer, hairdresser or supermarket employee and do some easy sports like fitness or soccer.

The next day I watched the semi finals and the finals.

So good to see those men (and women) climbing. Rachel, another Dutch climber did really good. I made a lot of videos of the climbers, maybe I can learn something of it. Placed them all on YouTube. (Click the link).

Photo's: Hans van der Steen

Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven

Oeeee, almost. Just one night, a bit of soccer and then climbing!

I just had the technical meeting and got the starting list.

I'm already nervous and feel this little heartbeat in my throat. But, I already felt better after I met another iceclimber: Radka from Bulgaria. She's kind and social, so time to chill and laugh :)

I'm number 31 on the list for tomorrow. Which means I'll be one of the last to climb.

On the website of the Worldcup you can follow a livestream.

The Womens qualifications starts at 9h (Dutch time) which means I won't be climbing before 10h.

The Belgian climber Cloé (also an iceclimber) takes the lead on the list. Vera, is first of the Dutch to boulder as number 21. Then Magli form Belgium (nr. 25), then me (nr. 31) Roelien (nr. 34), Radka (nr. 36), Marianne (nr. 37), Rachel (nr. 38), Nikki (nr. 39) and Channah (nr. 40) (see the whole list on the IFSC website)

And now: have fun...and climb well :)

Tuzgle

I remember my first time in Céüse "many" years ago.

There I met a really nice, friendly, enthusiastic, energetic girl from Swiss. Nina Caprez.

When climbing in Europe I met her again a couple times and now she's the star in a new climbing video.

A real must-see video called Tuzgle.

Allez Nina!

Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven

Just a couple days to go.

I'm nervous and have the feeling I'm not strong enough, not good enough.

Erik told me yesterday that 50% of my strength is 'between my ears'. If I'd stop 'thinking', be more relaxed, I'd climb a lot better...which is true, I guess.

Most of the times, when I climb something difficult I'm surprised, not expecting to climb the thing. And that happens when I'm not under pressure of time, people or whatever.

So actually, climbing competitions is my weakest thing. (Then why do I join the WorldCup???)

This Friday I'll climb the qualifications and hopefully I'll land in the semi-finals (...getting little butterflies in my tummy by just thinking of it)

The program

Friday June 25

08:30 Doors open

09:00 Start qualifications Women

11:45 End qualifications Women

14:30 Start qualifications Men

18:30 End qualifications men

Saturday June 26

12:00 Doors open

13:00 Start Semi-finals Woman and Men

15:30 End Semi-finals Woman and Men

Finals

19:30 Start finals Women and Men

22:00 Award Ceremony

22:00 Worldcup Party

And there are several side events, demonstrations with Breakdance, Taekwondo, Bike-polo

So, if you want to see me climbing on Friday, wake up early and get to 'Klokgebouw 141' in Eindhoven.

2 competitions in one weekend

...And yes again competition climbing today.

This time bouldering. Really fun relaxed atmosphere in THEA, Amsterdam (Tussen Hemel en Aarde=Between Heaven and Earth, as the gym is in a church)

Climbing with other good climbers who respect each other and are interested in what others climb. Such a good support to be around these people. (Thanks Bart, Roelien, Hans, Mariana, Joost, ....)

Nikki joined, but didn't put in here score card, Mariana, Roelien, Rianne, Martina and others did put in their score cards and surprisingly, I won! As price I got a pair of climbing shoes :)

It's very motivational to win this little comp and see where I stand between the other climbers.

Mariana won the over-all Winter competition. She got a really cool big triple crashpad!

Though, I still have to keep on training. I notice that my fingerstrength really has to improve and I need to get some more powerendurance. I can do most of the moves, but get tired fast.

So, restday tomorrow and then training again!

Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven

Waaa, exciting!

I'm going to join the worldcup bouldering in Eindhoven this Summer!

It's now official and on all webpages: climbing.nl, nkbv.nl, the worldcup webpage and more :)

Quite scary when people talk about you on webpages and stuff. I'm even in some kind of poll on climbing.nl: "Who is going to be..." bla bla, just vote, or don't ;)

I never expected to be fit enough after I broke my arm this Winter. But, with solid 6C os. level again and sometimes even 7A's that go good already, I'm feeling fit and strong.

These days I'm spending more time then ever on my climbing. Fitness in the mornings cycling everywhere instead of going by car and climbing in the midday and/or evening. Just bouldering and weekends in Ettringen for a change of scenery.

Summer in town!

Gosh, being in Holland is good for your tan!

Time to think of other things then Iceland for a sec :)

Been bouldering in Rotterdam today and had great fun and sore fingertips in the end!

Dennis and me went to "Blok op Zuid" an artificial bloc that looks quite real. There is a whole topo and design idea with the bloc.

Blok op Zuid Bouldering from Marianne van der Steen on Vimeo.