Little Russia in Romania

Just back in our shared room.

It was busy last night with 6 others grinding their iceaxes when we tried to sleep and the couple sleeping above us moving the bed in a good rythm (don't want to know what that meant).

In the middle of the night I woke because of some alarm/phone. I noticed I felt pretty sick. Really sick and sore stomach and no idea why. Tried to toilet but nothing worked. Finally I got back to sleep feeling a bit better then during the night, luckily. At least I was able to eat my breakfast.

The isolation was packed. Steph explained it as being in the emergency hut on the Mont Blanc with Russians lying everywhere. I think it came pretty close to that.

It was first too cold and later too damp and warm. The warm-up was too small for all the climbers and the single toilet was occupied constantly.

I was 18th to climb (of 24) and warmed up okay-ish. The route looked quite strange with stone holds that we were not allowed to take as steinpulls because they might brake. The fourth hold was a sidepull that didn't look too good. I asked the other girls about the hold and they said it should be fine as it was just qualifications and it was low in the rout. I trusted them thinking of my new climbing plan: faster climbing without hesitations on every move.

It was my turn, Catherine helped reminding me of my new plan in the isolation and wished me luck. Gordon was climbing on the mens route and fell off somewhere in the start, then Markus got a second turn next to me (after he popped off in the top with a twisting hold).

I climbed just a couple moves and found it hard to find the holes in the snow/ice (snice). Suddenly I hung in the air when my left axe ripped out of the snow. As it's a qualification and haven't clipped the first draw yet you're allowed to start again. Losing precious time (we only had 5 mins for the whole route) I got really stressed. It slowed me down, stressing me even more. Two times more my axe almost ripped out forcing me to really hack in the ice, losing even more time and thus stressing me even more. I reached the top of the icewall and now had to get focused on the other style of climbing: drytooling. Focusing on the holds reminding what I told myself: move faster. The idea was to make a move in 3 steps. Preparation, movement and stabilisation. Only the movement to the next hold has to be steady and slow, in the other two parts I could speed up. And so I tried, realising I probably had just a minute left after the fall in the start. I came to the sidepull move, felt the hold, surprising myself that the hold was worse then I thought. I had no time, I had to move. As stable as possible I moved onto my axe, doubting the stability of it. I was getting onto it as my left axe popped off the not-so-good-hold before it. For two seconds I hung on the sidepull but as the hold stands sideways I slid off in seconds dangling in the air again. No second chances here, and just happy the belayer actually held me.

I was too astonished to even think of crying, being angry and having any feelings at all. How could this happen, how?

I instantly lost all faith in my new method. Wondering why I actually got all the way here to climb four moves on some crappy stones in glassfiber/epoxy.

They tricked me again, making me believe this worldcup would be better then last years here. "Yes, they changed". Yes, they changed. And made it worse.

The Russian routesetters made some big (huge) mistakes. In the mens route they had the same problem with half of the men falling off the same hold (including Dennis) and loads of climbers ripping out off the ice, losing precious time just like me. The routesetters are old, heavy, one tiny one big and they don't even test the routes making it a big gamble.

Dennis spoke to one of the routesetters after his disappointing climb. "And what do you think" Dennis asked the routesetter. "Not so happy I thought after 4 competitions people are strong, it's too hard" he replied. At least he realised...

Hopefully better at the speed or maybe a second chance tomorrow...

Thanks for

nothing.

Ow by the way, as I guessed the livestream isn't working.

Pictures:

They sell crap in the stores here. The registration yesterday. Ursus beer, better then water and the menu, piept is chicken we figured after we ordered. The opening dinner, tables full of cold meat. The isolation warm-up wall still being build when we're already trying to when we're warming up (perfect timing...)

Busteni 2012

Again in Romania.

Sorry to say but it really is the last place you want to visit. In some ways even worse then the trip we had to China a couple months ago.

But we're here.

The train ride was not as epic as last years' and we arrived safely in Busteni without having to share Dutch cheese with the conductor a criminal and a nazi and a walk over the rails to get into the Busteni train station.

This evening is the 'opening dinner' and ceremony (eat a lot of different types of meat in small slices, great if you're vegetarian. I'm sure they have vegetarian chicken, beef and pork. You know, chickens don't eat meat so they must be true vegetarians)

We're lucky being here. The French are on strike meaning most of the flights are canceled and next to that theres so much snow on the railway and the roads that even if you arrive to Romania it's still hard to get to Busteni.

And then once there we noticed hardly anything changed: tramp dogs, chaotic infrastructure, and in the mountain hut the organisation seemed totally waisted on some moonshine. Pavel (Russian, UIAA organisation and former expedition climber) trying his utmost to explain that there still loads to do... This midday we discussed the horrible isolation tent where we cooled down before our climb and sat for hours, hopefully that will be improved. Now I hope I can sleep tonight without getting nightmares of the belayers we had last year...

They say on the website you can follow it all live. Haven't figured yet if it's true. Here at least the website of the comp: iwcbusteni.ro

The program is a bit different then we're used to. Women climb the qualifiers and the semi's on the same day and the finals on the next day. You can find the whole program here.

Pictures:

In Romania they sell beer in 2L plastic bottles

The sign to announce the ICW

Secondhand Dutch clothes are being sold in Romania in shops like "First class European"

Caminul Alpin is where we stay, close to the Ghetto Hotel...

Champagny: worldcup climbing with -30 C

After the 'real-ice-sessions' in Cogne it was time for the Worldcup again. This time it was Champagny-en-Vanoise. For the first time in 10 years a Worldcup on French soil/ice again.

We enjoyed the lovely -25C on the first day when we arrived and got warned that it would get worse/better in the next days with tempeartures dropping to -40 in the night and finally when I was happy to climb the semi-finals it was -30 C. Though, I could handle the temperatures quite well and enjoyed the climb: loads of ice, a real ICEclimbing competition and not just the drytooling as on the previous comps.

Again I was too slow, not pumped at all but a time-out made me land on a 12th place, just not good enough for the finals, again...

Dennis had quite a bit of bad luck (again) and made a mistake by skipping a hold, it just, just, just took him out of the semi's. He was so close!

We'd put in an appeal (long story) resulting in more confusing things which made me to skip the speedclimbing comp that evening.

Dennis did climb the speed later that evening. It was FREEZING cold and hard to put a good time. He finally became (un)lucky 13th. After the bunch of Russians (that are probably used to the cold...)

Yesterday we went skiing, for the first time on my own (brand new!) ski's :)

I did okay, I guess, but I'm wondering how all these people go down the piste so, fluent, souple and gracious. Still need some time to practice I guess.

Now up for some more iceclimbing, a visit to the Petzl factory (thanks to Erwan) and then fly to Romania...

(note for the pictures: yes the thermometer is working...)

Cogne > Vanoise

Our last day in Cogne today.

After some quite successful and less successful climbing days we have to get back to the drytooling again.

Which is not bad, I guess I need a bit of rest from the freezing cold. Yesterday walking up to the icefalls it was -17 C... When climbing the first pitch I could hardly get my screws and axes in the ice, it was all so brittle.

Still nice an cold out here in Cogne

Video time

Of every memorisable thing I do I make a little video. Like a diary in moving frames.

So nothing spectacular, but it might give you a view on what I do out there :)

This one is of what we did in Korea.

The next one is Saas Fee (will be visible on Vimeo already)

Real ice in Cogne

Finally, after a whole year of horrible ice (Kandersteg, Iceland...) we wanted to climb something proper.

We heard Cogne in Italy was the only place this year that had some ice. All other areas were far too dry or warm.

So, we skip the comp in Rabenstein (which would be too far anyway) and just climb ice for 1,5 weeks.

The first day we had a proper warm-up in a-route-of-which-I-forgot-the-name-already. The ice was thin at some places but very nice to climb. Mixed in the middle, totally dry top-out and proper ice in the start. After a paper-scissor-stone game I was the one to start, I had all the proper ice pitches and the dry top-out, Dennis had one ice pitch and the snow in the middle. Lucky me :) Though, Dennis was the lucky one to climb the mixed pitch in the middle.

Today we wanted to take a look in another line that didn't look too hard but it was stuffed with climbers so we went straight for the 'Hard Ice' and the M7+ left to it. (Couloir Lillaz or something)

Dennis was the one to start today, as I started yesterday. He went into the M7+ which was pretty scary dry and full of really loose blocks to pull on. We wanted to get into the ice after that but it was all wet delaminated 'shait'. Not something I wanted to get onto. Plus I was totally frozen seconding the first pitch. My hands were so, so, so cold. Once the blood got back it felt like they were exploding and falling off and....it just was really painful :(

Thinking back I still feel sick of it.

Hopefully no that I once had it it won't come again this bad this Winter...

After that we climbed the first pitch of 'Hard Ice' figuring the second M10 pitch looked too weird, scary, loose and some ice was missing... So we bailed again (not motivated to try the A2 option on the right) The first pitch was quite a thing, harder then it looks.

The stalactite had almost formed a pillar. I recon it takes just a couple more days of good frost and then it will stand.

Tomorrow we have Tuborg on the list and then we'll head for the real stuff (harder ice and hopefully we find some proper mixed things here in the valley, suggestions are welcome)

Finally, real ice: it's all cold, hurts on your hands, is cold on your feet, painful when it hits your shoulders, shins of face, scary when it's all delaminated but all together it's still a thing I love :)

Worldcup Saas-Fee pt. 2

Disappointed with the result (13th) which should be 12th, if you'd strictly follow the rules (a Russian climber should have been disqualified) I had quite an unfortunate climb: had my axe stuck in a hold, waisted quite some time there and wasn't able to fix a hold straight away, waisting more time...

Dennis did well until he popped off (tired, bad hold, bad luck)

Hopefully better next time :(

Worldcup Saas-Fee

Whoe :) Again anaother day of worldcup climbing.
Just climbed, was really slow, nervous and pretty insecure but just reached the semi's.
Dennis was quite impressive and managed almost to top the route.
Tonight speedclimbing and tomorrow semi's and hopefully finals as well...

Worldcup Korea pt. 2

Grrrr...

I came here to be in the finals and failed. Not much more to tell then: I'm much stronger then last year but miss the right training (wall, people) to get better and do the right thing I guess.

12 & 12 in both lead and speed. Not bad, but not good enough.

Wednesday is Zoo day, and then it's time for the next cup: Saas Fee.

Really tired...need sleep...now

Korean Iceclimbing Worldcup 2012

Finally we arrived in South Korea for the first worldcup of the season.

We arrived together with two members of the Swiss team and I just lay down in bed. A bed. A bed...a real bed.

We got our rooms, Dennis had to sleep in the guys room, and I was sleeping in the girls room. Our room was 'traditionally Korean', which means hard blankets on the floor and some sheets. No bed at all...

Luckily we had the chance to move around a bit and now I ly in one of the guys rooms together with Petra.

And that is luxury after the rice, seaweed, cold, screaming kids on the hallway and the busride (got really carsick)

Hopefully better tomorrow.

Now I need some rest :)

(N)ice, finally

(N)ice!

Well, sort of ice.

We arrived in Kandersteg (CH) after an 'interesting' trip with a beautiful van that sometimes has 'issues'.

We joined the Festival (no ice although it's called the "Ice Festival") and today we finally climbed some real ice in Ueschinen.

As we did so much last week here a little summaray:

• January 2nd: from Bergschenhoek to Heerjansdam and a stop in Land van Altena to get some help to fix Dennis' VW T3 Syncro (our home for the next 2 months). We drove on to Venlo and parked the car for a good night sleep.
• January 3rd: from Venlo to Germany, somewhere during the evening the van just quit out of nothing, a Dutch truck driver dragged us with his double truck to a safer place where we got a pick-up by the ADAC (German car insurance)
• January 4th: Thanks to the ANWB/ADAC we stood in Bergweiler at the local Lada dealer to fix the van. Around midday we were ready to go on, around 8-ish we finally arrived in Kandersteg
• January 5th: half a climbing day: drytooling in Blausee. It was raining and wet everywhere, too hot to climb any proper ice. Though the drytooling was good, where we had trouble getting up last year was just a good training session now: we are strong :)
• January 6th: ski-trip up to Oeschinensee and the mixed/ice routes Kraftort and Kraftwerk. My first second time outdoors on ski's, first time real snow. Quite interesting...We noticed all the fallen trees and stuff and realised only that evening that the fohn had it's impact last night: Zermatt closed, the train in Kandersteg closed, ski pistes all closed... Even the electricity went out that night for a while, when we were asleep... :)
• January 7th: Kandersteg Ice Festival: for Dennis (speed specialist) it was a good comp, he ended up being 7th, standing on stage in between his youth heroes. I was quite unlucky. Being first to climb in the flash competition (so for me it was an onsight) got my axe stuck in the holds twice, after me the holds were big enough not to get your axe stuck and not being a speed specialist made me end up 9th... (Out of 20) just after Anna (who won the 2011 worldcup series) Though it was good to meet all those nice people again (Rolf, Urs, Erwan, Stephanie, Felicitas...) Here all the results.
• January 8th: restday (boring!) it was dumping (snow) all day, so I made a walk to the city centre, realising everything was closed (it's Sunday) and walked back again, happy not being able to spent money in Swiss. That evening Dennis and I realised we're together for 2 years now. So we celebrated it with a good bit of Jameson and a walk in the snow.
• January 9th: Ueschinen. We wanted to do some real mixed/drytooling so we skied up to Ueschinen. Realising again how much it hurts when your hands stay cold (hot eggs/screaming barfeys) Dennis had it...really bad. I was lucky to be in a better 'hand shape'. After a good warm-up in some M8's we climbed Power Bat both 2nd go. Getting used to finding holds in natural rock. On the way up I had some trouble with 'air', being on tension over my whole body I couldn't help it letting out some 'fresh' air. In the end fell off, landing upside down in the air Dennis belayed me down avoiding the hanging ice pillars to fall on me... We were wondering who the guy was who was racing up all the M10's and M11's, he turned out to be the speed record holder for the Eiger NF. Ah, I knew I recognised him from somewhere... On the way down I skied my first real powder and actually liked it (getting better).
• January 10th: that is tomorrow, we'll drive to Geneva to fly to Korea on the 11th. Exciting!

Preparing for January

.

Last year I wrote a post with exactly the same title.

And this year again we're preparing...for the big Winter trip.

Theres so much to do: administration, financials, training and of course...the van.

Dennis' still has his VW Syncro and tries to get it 'Winter proof' again. 'New' gearbox, 'new' engine, all the interior (new shelfs and cupboards).

Basically its a whole new van, the only thing that stayed the same is the outer (still bumpy big and white)

Hopefully we get it all done before January.

Merry Christmas

Ola everyone,

I wish you all a merry merry Christmas and a happy new year!

Now take Wulff Morgenthalers advice: "Don't wish for any presents! It's weak and passive. Go make your own happiness. Be the master of your own destiny.

Make it a good, fun, fanatic, sportive, smart, wise, safe, crazy cool climbing year!

Lolotte

In China we met a very nice 'person': Lolotte.

Lolotte is a frog travelling the world. She (?) meets climbers, visits famous climbing areas and sometimes she dares a climb herself :)

We met her as well back in China.

Want to become fan of Lolotte: check her Facebookpage

Indoor Winter Training

Since the Dutch Drytool Event we have some drytool routes in climbinggym Rock Steady (Bussum, NL) and this is how we spent our evenings :)

Viva 400 Award

Zo. Daar ben ik weer. Even dan, want ik heb het een beetje druk.

Draaiboek schijven, nog een draaiboek schrijven, China trip report, evaluaties doen met stagaires, drytool routes bouwen, werken, nog iets meer werken, nadenken over een interessante toekomstige baan, financien bijwerken, studeren en daarnaast moet ik ook nog wat klimmen (schijnt).

En eigenlijk hebben al deze dingen een deadline van 30 november. Great.

Dus nu even snel een berichtje in het Nederlands, dan hoef ik niet na te denken over wat ik typ, dat gaat sneller en zo bespaar ik een beetje tijd...

Jullie hebben nog heel wat dingen van mij tegoed. Foto's van drytoolen, China, NK sportklimmen, en nu gisteren ook de Viva 400 Award.

In Club Lido (Holland Casino Amsterdam) was het feestje, met nog 399 andere genodigden, Viva redacteurs en een paar mannen (die zich nogal ongemakkelijk voelden).

Iedereen was alleen, vriendjes mochten niet mee en iedereen kende (bijna) niemand. Perfect om te beginnen met netwerken. Ik was categorie stoer, dus ik zou moeten netwerken met stoer of zakelijk (afhankelijk van mijn doelen voor de avond). Ik struikelde bijna over categorie zakelijk (Jennifer). Haar jurk was gigantisch en paste precies bij haar persoonlijkheid.

Na een tijdje kwam er een vreemde man op het podium. Mannen & Viva gaan niet echt samen, behalve als het om de Anybody gaat, dus iedereen vroeg zich af wat hij er deed. Hij zelf ook. Hij las zijn speech op vanaf z'n tablet. Het ging over talent, vrouwen, knap zijn en ondanks dat hij het telkens ontkende ging het over 'donkere' 'vieze' talenten met mooie gezichtjes en, wat voor hem belangrijk was: mooie benen.

Talent is dus het hebben van mooie benen. De man op het podium bleek de baas van de Playboy, zo zei hij vooraf. Ik ben nog niet gevraagd voor in de Playboy dus ik lees het blad ook niet, wist ik veel dat hij de baas er van is. Zo 'Playboy' was ie eigenlijk niet.

Om de Award te winnen moest je zo veel mogelijk stemmen verzamelen. Een duidelijk stukje vriendjes politiek en oneerlijk stemmen. Als hoofdredacteur van een groot online vrouwen magazine had je duidelijk meer kans om te winnen dan als marathon zwemster. Want je kan gewoon al je online leden vragen op je te stemmen, marathon zwemmers hebben denk ik meer talent, maar omdat ze eerlijk zijn en liever bezig met hun sport dan hun ego maken ze minder kans. Dus uiteindelijk wonnen

Aanstormend: LOS (toneelgroep)

Creatief: Marjolein Schel (hoofdredactuer online magazine 'girlsscene')

Goed: Dina-Perla Marciano (rechten van de vrouw en minderheden)

Showbizz: Carice van Houten (actrice)

Slim: Elke Geraerts (klinische psychologie, kindermishandeling)

Stoer: Katja Roose (kitesurfster)

Zakelijk: Mascha Feoktistova (eigenaresse site beautygloss.nl)

(Dus wanneer je onderzoek doet naar eiwitten en hun opbouw, caberatiere bent, sieraden uit Nepal verkoopt, of aan ijsklimmen doet en geen Facebook hebt omdat je in China zit, maak je geen kans)

Gelukkig won Katja bij mijn categorie en niet het Nederlands tafeltennisteam of een vrouwtje dat een container bedrijf heeft in de haven. Want dan zou ik gaan twijfelen of ik wel in de juiste categorie mee deed.

Na de awards zijn we even weg gegaan want om 10:00uur was er nog geen echt eten. Een beetje amuses happen is voor de anorexia modellen prima, maar voor ons (slim, creatief, sportief en een verdwaalde zakelijke lesbische bruid) was het niks. Dus stonden we opeens in onze jurken, hoge hakken en make-up in de snackbar op de Leidscheplein. We verzonnen dat Jennifer net van het altaar was weggelopen.

Even later waren we weer terug en klaar om te gaan gokken. We zaten opeens te gokken samen met de hoofdredacteur van de Viva, de baas van Disaronno, de Playboy baas, een model en iemand van de marechaussee. Zo hadden we €20,- bij de Black Jack en zo verloren we €50,- uiteindelijk ben ik zonder winst naar huis gegaan.

Het was gezellig, leuk en vreemd om opeens tussen zoveel vrouwen te staan. Ik moest soms hard nadenken over m'n opmerkingen. Alle cynische, seksistische, harde, platte, simpele grappen kon ik nauwelijks maken. En als ik dan toch iets seksistisch of cynisch zei snapte niemand het behalve de cabaretière.

90% was griezelig arrogant en zelfingenomen, 1% was man en hoorde er dus niet thuis, 2% wist zelf niet wat ze er deed omdat ze eigenlijk niks bijzonders deden, 2% was lesbisch en alleen maar op zoek naar een relatie met een bijzondere vrouw, 3% was drukker met Twitteren dan met real-life-social-life, dus bleef er zo'n 2% over die potentieel interessant was om mee te praten, gokken en drinken. Cheers.

Ik ga wel gewoon weer klimmen, dat snap ik tenminste.

Foto's: friet eten in glamour jurk. Kudo's voor mijn über arrogante look, anders hoor je er niet bij hè... En gokken met de 'beroemde' Jan Heemskerk en meneer Disaronno.

Dutch Drytool Event!

Okay, it might be the weirdest country for a Drytool comp, but I managed to organise it :)

This Sunday climbing gym Rock Steady in Bussum will be filled with iceclimbers, sportsclimbers and all other kind of climbers who want to try out iceaxes!

Petzl just told me they'll provide iceaxes for the comp so everyone, even if you're 'just a sportsclimber' you can join this fun comp.

There will be routes from easy D1 and D3 up to really hard and tricky D12 meaning there will be something for everyone. So if you climb just 5b of if you're a hardcore 8c climber you're all welcome and will have fun (I'm sure of it)

After the finals there's a free meal for all volunteers and competitors and we'll of course watch the newest iceclimbing movies.

More info in the NKBV website, my Facebook page and spread the word!

Note: on the NKBV site it says 'inschrijving gesloten' (subscription closed) but that is nonsense of course, just come to Bussum this Sunday and subscribe there or on the event page on Facebook.

New jeans

F*'in cool jeans!

Really.

If you're a climber and know Yosemite you'll like these jeans.

Five Ten (brand of the brave) designed jeans. Climbers jeans. With stretch and a good fit so you can now go to the gym in your jeans. For sure I'll compete in jeans on the next climbing comp.

Want to have these as well? Like 'Five Ten Nederland' on Facebook and ask for the jeans on their Facebook page.

They have a mens and a womens version. Check the different jeans here.

Just a blog post

These days I'm pretty busy with all kinds of things.

I have to work (money...) I need to climb and actually I should study (no time for it...) and I have to do administration things and make a movie about the STS and arrange all things for the first aid trainings (=part of my work) and I need

to....uhhh, it's just all a bit too much right now.

So I decided to do none of it all now and read and

knit. On my friends' the wish list: socks (Richard), a sweater (Eva) and a hat (Johannes). So enough to knit for the whole Winter.

Meanwhile Dennis tried to murder me, do I try to learn the basics of Chinese, manage to wash without as washing-machine, and I now will try to convince you that you should be in Monte Cervino tomorrow, in Monk on Sunday, in Nijmegen on Monday, Amsterdam on Tuesday...

Why? Five Ten (Brand of the brave) has the Test Event.

All nice five-tennies in all sizes to fit, feel, test, and climb with! The best excuse to buy new shoes, test them straight away and have your local Five Ten climbers to give you advice (all 5.10 Dutch team-members will be around) More info on the 5.10 Facebook page here.

And then, when work is done, administration done, climbing done, five ten tested, Chinese learned, socks knitted...then it's finally time for China!

3 weeks of climbing and adventure!

Because we'll be away, won't have e-mail, no phone reach, no postbox...we'll be busy...climbing! @Petzl Roc Trip in Getu Valley, China :)

this-is-an-automated-out-of-office-message-I'll-be-able-to-get-back-to-you-in-three-weeks-sorry-for-the-uncoveinance-over-and-out :)

Oh, don't worry about the murder...in fact Dennis just broke a bottle of beet-juice ;)

Ow, yes, and the video report of our STS trip, as promised, here: